Since time immemorial, precious and semi-precious gemstones studded jewellery has mesmerized many a jewellery connoisseur for the beauty and the sparkle of the gemstone itself. However, the scintillating jewel goes beyond just the stone and includes one of the most important parts of the ornament – the setting of the gemstone. Apart from providing support to the stone, setting helps highlight the gem and thereby add to its radiance. %% {{Common Settings :}}$$ There are different settings that are popular in the jewellery market. Each of these settings is used considering the specific market requirements. While the classical style settings such as prong, pavè and invisible are popular worldwide, settings like flush, precious, pressure, nick, tension, channel, and bezel are also in vogue. %% {{Development of Settings :}}$$ Talking about the methods of setting in the past and present, {{Michael Kedem, Mirage Lifestyle,}} says, |*“Jewellery manufacturing has been around for quite a long time – around thousands of years. So the different techniques were explored around the past few centuries. The only difference today is how we specialize in the selected technique. Previously one had limited tools, machinery, and knowledge on how to do the things. Today the specializing level has reached a level better than what it was even imagined possible in the past. I would call it the purifying technique where everything is clean and pure.{{There are no flaws.}} That is the difference.”*|%% However, as trends and tastes of jewellery have changed over the years, there has been little innovation in the industry concerning completely new setting forms. {{Ranak Patel, Inter Carat says, }}|*“There is a definite change in trends and tastes of jewellery. But this has not percolated down to the choice of the settings used.” Talking about her company’s work on improving the common preferred styles, she quotes, “We have definitely introduced new techniques and improvisations in the popular classic settings, which enhance the beauty of the piece further and help in increasing our productivity in terms of output.”*| {{Under the Microscope :}}$$ For the upscale jewellery market, {{micro pave}} is very popular. The micro pave is a delicate take on the pave setting where diamonds are set in multiple rows over the surface of the jewellery pie under a stereoscopic microscope. When set using this technique, it is only the diamonds, which are seen and there is hardly any metal part that is visible. The gemstones used in the setting do not go above 1.5mm size. In addition, the prongs in this setting technique can be as small as 0.20mm. %% The setting is done with precision that enhances the beauty of the ornament. Says Michael, |*“The microscope is creating an extensive difference. You are working on magnification between 10 and 40. Nonetheless, if micro pave is done well, you get the look of a carpet of gemstones imparting a very rich look. The value for money is excellent as you get bigger gemstone look when you are actually using many smaller ones.” *|

While micro pave has made inroads into the Indian market, {{Jaymin Vora, Romil Impex}} feels that myths pertaining to the setting are still in the air. He says, |*“We have had people coming to us and showing us jewellery pieces of small gemstones set in a normal prong setting, while claiming it to be micro pave. Then it becomes imperative for us to explain the difference.”*|%% {{Popularity of Micro Pave Settings :}}$$ Mirage Lifestyle is a specialist in micro pave settings.{{ Michael}} quotes, |*“Lots of people recognise our setting because it is different. When people see our product, they find it easier to decide to go with our product compared to other products with same stone quality/quantity or with same price. They get their value for money because of the way the jewellery is being designed, blended and executed.”*|%% {{Patented Settings :}}$$ Some believe that patency of stones or settings are applicable in western countries. Besides, by patenting a product they believe that the company does not have an edge over its competitors. Nonetheless, many companies have resorted to patenting their special settings. Fine Jewellery Mfg. Ltd. owns a patented diamond setting collection called the {{‘Mystere’,}} which offers a unique look to the product. Says {{Sohil Kothari, Fine Jewellery,}} |*“Mystere technique enables settings of diamonds in a manner that enhances the sheer brilliance and lustre of the jewellery by giving it a continuous look and providing opulence to the diamonds.” *|%% Currently under the process of patenting is the {{German micro setting }}by Inter Carat. According to {{Ranak Patel,}} |*“The features of this setting are perfectly calibrated walls in terms of thickness and height; minimal metal thickness of prongs and hence a bigger exposure of the gemstone table; precisely gauged notches to hold the gemstone securely and can be consistently adapted even for the smallest stones.” *|%% {{Jewellery in Which Patented Settings Used? }}$$ While the Mystere setting is available in different shapes like round, oval, square, trillion and hearts, it is also used for any type of diamond, ruby or sapphire jewellery, whether it is the basic pendant, necklace, bangle, etc. The German micro setting is used for round gemstones and in pave and prong setting styles. Considering that bridal jewellery is exposed to more daily wear and tear than other forms of jewellery and is expected to last forever (like the relationship), Inter Carat has perfected the technique for extensive use in bridal rings. %% {{Popularity of Patented Settings :}}$$ The patented settings have made inroads and are popular in India and abroad. Talking about the popularity of the Mystere setting, {{Sohil Kothari}} of |*Fine Jewellery*| says, |*“The collection that is patented for its setting technique across the globe is a bestseller in the US, UK and other European Countries. With a flexibility to be set into various designs, this specific technique allows for a number of surprising jewellery items which have proven their worth at the retail level.”*| {{Ranak Patel}} says, |*“The German micro setting allows for better brilliance of the gemstone and higher productivity. It is a win-win situation for our customers and us.”*|%% {{Providing the “Solitaire” Look :}}$$ With prices escalating, many customers who wish to have jewellery with the look of a large single stone, can now do so, thanks to various settings and cuts available in the market. {{ Sohil Kothari }}says, |*“In the Mystere setting, the diamonds are set in a way to produce the solitaire look. In this setting, the diamonds are set in multiple layers that offer a look of single diamond. In addition we have the Mystique technique (another patented setting) which offers a solitaire look to the product apart from the invisible setting in which princess cut diamonds are set closely together giving a solitaire effect.”*|

To bring out the solitaire effect, Inter Carat is best at using the pressure setting to replicate the look of a large single gemstone while using multiple gems. Although the pressure setting is a commonly used setting, according to Ranak Patel, the finesse with which a craftsman executes it will make a world of difference. %% According to {{Harshang Zaveri, Harshang Jewellers Pvt. Ltd.,}} |*“Apart from the precious setting where you can see five different diamonds together to give one stone look, the overlaying of two cuts of stones is gaining popularity in India over the past one year. Also known as the single cut-double cut combination, the two stones are set together in such a way that they form to look like a large stone.”*| However, they are two different methods. The single cut overrides the double cut in such a way that it looks like one single stone and is more camouflaged. The setting used is a near placement of two diamonds in prongs and the metal is not visible. %% {{The One Carat Illusion :}}$$ The settings are highly popular. According to {{Harshang Zaveri,}}|*” People who cannot afford a one-carat diamond ring could have one-carat look like on their fingers. Unless you view the stones very closely, you cannot make out the difference.”*|%% {{The Feasibility Factor :}}$$ While the micro-pave settings require utmost precision, according to {{Jaymin Vora,}} the micro settings take double the amount of time to set stones as compared to other normal settings. However, it depends on the jewellery being manufactured. %% The German micro setting offers high German quality at competitive prices and a faster and better output. Growing with inclusions of new designs every year, the Mystere and Mystique settings are feasible and production-friendly. Though the efficiency is almost as much of the normal setting in technique, it can be thrice time-consuming as compared to the traditional prong-set or channel-set. However, the gemstones for the patented settings do not need to be modified in any special way. The overlaying of two cuts of diamonds could take about 10 to 15 days depending on the design of the jewellery. %% {{The Strength Factor :}}$$ Normally the setting should have the strength to bear the weight of the gemstone. However due to any rough use or mishap if the gemstone falls down, replacing it is the only remedy. While most of the repair of jewellery with common settings can be done at any jeweller in the country, in case of patented settings or cuts, the damaged ornament would have to be sent to the manufacturer. Nonetheless, with companies experimenting and investing in research and development for better techniques, we can see innovative ways of alluring the consumer with jewellery studded with the mesmerizing gemstone.

Since time immemorial, precious and semi-precious gemstones studded jewellery has mesmerized many a jewellery connoisseur for the beauty and the sparkle of the gemstone itself. However, the scintillating jewel goes beyond just the stone and includes one of the most important parts of the ornament – the setting of the gemstone. Apart from providing support to the stone, setting helps highlight the gem and thereby add to its radiance. %% {{Common Settings :}}$$ There are different settings that are popular in the jewellery market. Each of these settings is used considering the specific market requirements. While the classical style settings such as prong, pavè and invisible are popular worldwide, settings like flush, precious, pressure, nick, tension, channel, and bezel are also in vogue. %% {{Development of Settings :}}$$ Talking about the methods of setting in the past and present, {{Michael Kedem, Mirage Lifestyle,}} says, |*“Jewellery manufacturing has been around for quite a long time – around thousands of years. So the different techniques were explored around the past few centuries. The only difference today is how we specialize in the selected technique. Previously one had limited tools, machinery, and knowledge on how to do the things. Today the specializing level has reached a level better than what it was even imagined possible in the past. I would call it the purifying technique where everything is clean and pure.{{There are no flaws.}} That is the difference.”*|%% However, as trends and tastes of jewellery have changed over the years, there has been little innovation in the industry concerning completely new setting forms. {{Ranak Patel, Inter Carat says, }}|*“There is a definite change in trends and tastes of jewellery. But this has not percolated down to the choice of the settings used.” Talking about her company’s work on improving the common preferred styles, she quotes, “We have definitely introduced new techniques and improvisations in the popular classic settings, which enhance the beauty of the piece further and help in increasing our productivity in terms of output.”*| {{Under the Microscope :}}$$ For the upscale jewellery market, {{micro pave}} is very popular. The micro pave is a delicate take on the pave setting where diamonds are set in multiple rows over the surface of the jewellery pie under a stereoscopic microscope. When set using this technique, it is only the diamonds, which are seen and there is hardly any metal part that is visible. The gemstones used in the setting do not go above 1.5mm size. In addition, the prongs in this setting technique can be as small as 0.20mm. %% The setting is done with precision that enhances the beauty of the ornament. Says Michael, |*“The microscope is creating an extensive difference. You are working on magnification between 10 and 40. Nonetheless, if micro pave is done well, you get the look of a carpet of gemstones imparting a very rich look. The value for money is excellent as you get bigger gemstone look when you are actually using many smaller ones.” *|

While micro pave has made inroads into the Indian market, {{Jaymin Vora, Romil Impex}} feels that myths pertaining to the setting are still in the air. He says, |*“We have had people coming to us and showing us jewellery pieces of small gemstones set in a normal prong setting, while claiming it to be micro pave. Then it becomes imperative for us to explain the difference.”*|%% {{Popularity of Micro Pave Settings :}}$$ Mirage Lifestyle is a specialist in micro pave settings.{{ Michael}} quotes, |*“Lots of people recognise our setting because it is different. When people see our product, they find it easier to decide to go with our product compared to other products with same stone quality/quantity or with same price. They get their value for money because of the way the jewellery is being designed, blended and executed.”*|%% {{Patented Settings :}}$$ Some believe that patency of stones or settings are applicable in western countries. Besides, by patenting a product they believe that the company does not have an edge over its competitors. Nonetheless, many companies have resorted to patenting their special settings. Fine Jewellery Mfg. Ltd. owns a patented diamond setting collection called the {{‘Mystere’,}} which offers a unique look to the product. Says {{Sohil Kothari, Fine Jewellery,}} |*“Mystere technique enables settings of diamonds in a manner that enhances the sheer brilliance and lustre of the jewellery by giving it a continuous look and providing opulence to the diamonds.” *|%% Currently under the process of patenting is the {{German micro setting }}by Inter Carat. According to {{Ranak Patel,}} |*“The features of this setting are perfectly calibrated walls in terms of thickness and height; minimal metal thickness of prongs and hence a bigger exposure of the gemstone table; precisely gauged notches to hold the gemstone securely and can be consistently adapted even for the smallest stones.” *|%% {{Jewellery in Which Patented Settings Used? }}$$ While the Mystere setting is available in different shapes like round, oval, square, trillion and hearts, it is also used for any type of diamond, ruby or sapphire jewellery, whether it is the basic pendant, necklace, bangle, etc. The German micro setting is used for round gemstones and in pave and prong setting styles. Considering that bridal jewellery is exposed to more daily wear and tear than other forms of jewellery and is expected to last forever (like the relationship), Inter Carat has perfected the technique for extensive use in bridal rings. %% {{Popularity of Patented Settings :}}$$ The patented settings have made inroads and are popular in India and abroad. Talking about the popularity of the Mystere setting, {{Sohil Kothari}} of |*Fine Jewellery*| says, |*“The collection that is patented for its setting technique across the globe is a bestseller in the US, UK and other European Countries. With a flexibility to be set into various designs, this specific technique allows for a number of surprising jewellery items which have proven their worth at the retail level.”*| {{Ranak Patel}} says, |*“The German micro setting allows for better brilliance of the gemstone and higher productivity. It is a win-win situation for our customers and us.”*|%% {{Providing the “Solitaire” Look :}}$$ With prices escalating, many customers who wish to have jewellery with the look of a large single stone, can now do so, thanks to various settings and cuts available in the market. {{ Sohil Kothari }}says, |*“In the Mystere setting, the diamonds are set in a way to produce the solitaire look. In this setting, the diamonds are set in multiple layers that offer a look of single diamond. In addition we have the Mystique technique (another patented setting) which offers a solitaire look to the product apart from the invisible setting in which princess cut diamonds are set closely together giving a solitaire effect.”*|

To bring out the solitaire effect, Inter Carat is best at using the pressure setting to replicate the look of a large single gemstone while using multiple gems. Although the pressure setting is a commonly used setting, according to Ranak Patel, the finesse with which a craftsman executes it will make a world of difference. %% According to {{Harshang Zaveri, Harshang Jewellers Pvt. Ltd.,}} |*“Apart from the precious setting where you can see five different diamonds together to give one stone look, the overlaying of two cuts of stones is gaining popularity in India over the past one year. Also known as the single cut-double cut combination, the two stones are set together in such a way that they form to look like a large stone.”*| However, they are two different methods. The single cut overrides the double cut in such a way that it looks like one single stone and is more camouflaged. The setting used is a near placement of two diamonds in prongs and the metal is not visible. %% {{The One Carat Illusion :}}$$ The settings are highly popular. According to {{Harshang Zaveri,}}|*” People who cannot afford a one-carat diamond ring could have one-carat look like on their fingers. Unless you view the stones very closely, you cannot make out the difference.”*|%% {{The Feasibility Factor :}}$$ While the micro-pave settings require utmost precision, according to {{Jaymin Vora,}} the micro settings take double the amount of time to set stones as compared to other normal settings. However, it depends on the jewellery being manufactured. %% The German micro setting offers high German quality at competitive prices and a faster and better output. Growing with inclusions of new designs every year, the Mystere and Mystique settings are feasible and production-friendly. Though the efficiency is almost as much of the normal setting in technique, it can be thrice time-consuming as compared to the traditional prong-set or channel-set. However, the gemstones for the patented settings do not need to be modified in any special way. The overlaying of two cuts of diamonds could take about 10 to 15 days depending on the design of the jewellery. %% {{The Strength Factor :}}$$ Normally the setting should have the strength to bear the weight of the gemstone. However due to any rough use or mishap if the gemstone falls down, replacing it is the only remedy. While most of the repair of jewellery with common settings can be done at any jeweller in the country, in case of patented settings or cuts, the damaged ornament would have to be sent to the manufacturer. Nonetheless, with companies experimenting and investing in research and development for better techniques, we can see innovative ways of alluring the consumer with jewellery studded with the mesmerizing gemstone.

Since time immemorial, precious and semi-precious gemstones studded jewellery has mesmerized many a jewellery connoisseur for the beauty and the sparkle of the gemstone itself. However, the scintillating jewel goes beyond just the stone and includes one of the most important parts of the ornament – the setting of the gemstone. Apart from providing support to the stone, setting helps highlight the gem and thereby add to its radiance. %% {{Common Settings :}}$$ There are different settings that are popular in the jewellery market. Each of these settings is used considering the specific market requirements. While the classical style settings such as prong, pavè and invisible are popular worldwide, settings like flush, precious, pressure, nick, tension, channel, and bezel are also in vogue. %% {{Development of Settings :}}$$ Talking about the methods of setting in the past and present, {{Michael Kedem, Mirage Lifestyle,}} says, |*“Jewellery manufacturing has been around for quite a long time – around thousands of years. So the different techniques were explored around the past few centuries. The only difference today is how we specialize in the selected technique. Previously one had limited tools, machinery, and knowledge on how to do the things. Today the specializing level has reached a level better than what it was even imagined possible in the past. I would call it the purifying technique where everything is clean and pure.{{There are no flaws.}} That is the difference.”*|%% However, as trends and tastes of jewellery have changed over the years, there has been little innovation in the industry concerning completely new setting forms. {{Ranak Patel, Inter Carat says, }}|*“There is a definite change in trends and tastes of jewellery. But this has not percolated down to the choice of the settings used.” Talking about her company’s work on improving the common preferred styles, she quotes, “We have definitely introduced new techniques and improvisations in the popular classic settings, which enhance the beauty of the piece further and help in increasing our productivity in terms of output.”*| {{Under the Microscope :}}$$ For the upscale jewellery market, {{micro pave}} is very popular. The micro pave is a delicate take on the pave setting where diamonds are set in multiple rows over the surface of the jewellery pie under a stereoscopic microscope. When set using this technique, it is only the diamonds, which are seen and there is hardly any metal part that is visible. The gemstones used in the setting do not go above 1.5mm size. In addition, the prongs in this setting technique can be as small as 0.20mm. %% The setting is done with precision that enhances the beauty of the ornament. Says Michael, |*“The microscope is creating an extensive difference. You are working on magnification between 10 and 40. Nonetheless, if micro pave is done well, you get the look of a carpet of gemstones imparting a very rich look. The value for money is excellent as you get bigger gemstone look when you are actually using many smaller ones.” *|

While micro pave has made inroads into the Indian market, {{Jaymin Vora, Romil Impex}} feels that myths pertaining to the setting are still in the air. He says, |*“We have had people coming to us and showing us jewellery pieces of small gemstones set in a normal prong setting, while claiming it to be micro pave. Then it becomes imperative for us to explain the difference.”*|%% {{Popularity of Micro Pave Settings :}}$$ Mirage Lifestyle is a specialist in micro pave settings.{{ Michael}} quotes, |*“Lots of people recognise our setting because it is different. When people see our product, they find it easier to decide to go with our product compared to other products with same stone quality/quantity or with same price. They get their value for money because of the way the jewellery is being designed, blended and executed.”*|%% {{Patented Settings :}}$$ Some believe that patency of stones or settings are applicable in western countries. Besides, by patenting a product they believe that the company does not have an edge over its competitors. Nonetheless, many companies have resorted to patenting their special settings. Fine Jewellery Mfg. Ltd. owns a patented diamond setting collection called the {{‘Mystere’,}} which offers a unique look to the product. Says {{Sohil Kothari, Fine Jewellery,}} |*“Mystere technique enables settings of diamonds in a manner that enhances the sheer brilliance and lustre of the jewellery by giving it a continuous look and providing opulence to the diamonds.” *|%% Currently under the process of patenting is the {{German micro setting }}by Inter Carat. According to {{Ranak Patel,}} |*“The features of this setting are perfectly calibrated walls in terms of thickness and height; minimal metal thickness of prongs and hence a bigger exposure of the gemstone table; precisely gauged notches to hold the gemstone securely and can be consistently adapted even for the smallest stones.” *|%% {{Jewellery in Which Patented Settings Used? }}$$ While the Mystere setting is available in different shapes like round, oval, square, trillion and hearts, it is also used for any type of diamond, ruby or sapphire jewellery, whether it is the basic pendant, necklace, bangle, etc. The German micro setting is used for round gemstones and in pave and prong setting styles. Considering that bridal jewellery is exposed to more daily wear and tear than other forms of jewellery and is expected to last forever (like the relationship), Inter Carat has perfected the technique for extensive use in bridal rings. %% {{Popularity of Patented Settings :}}$$ The patented settings have made inroads and are popular in India and abroad. Talking about the popularity of the Mystere setting, {{Sohil Kothari}} of |*Fine Jewellery*| says, |*“The collection that is patented for its setting technique across the globe is a bestseller in the US, UK and other European Countries. With a flexibility to be set into various designs, this specific technique allows for a number of surprising jewellery items which have proven their worth at the retail level.”*| {{Ranak Patel}} says, |*“The German micro setting allows for better brilliance of the gemstone and higher productivity. It is a win-win situation for our customers and us.”*|%% {{Providing the “Solitaire” Look :}}$$ With prices escalating, many customers who wish to have jewellery with the look of a large single stone, can now do so, thanks to various settings and cuts available in the market. {{ Sohil Kothari }}says, |*“In the Mystere setting, the diamonds are set in a way to produce the solitaire look. In this setting, the diamonds are set in multiple layers that offer a look of single diamond. In addition we have the Mystique technique (another patented setting) which offers a solitaire look to the product apart from the invisible setting in which princess cut diamonds are set closely together giving a solitaire effect.”*|

To bring out the solitaire effect, Inter Carat is best at using the pressure setting to replicate the look of a large single gemstone while using multiple gems. Although the pressure setting is a commonly used setting, according to Ranak Patel, the finesse with which a craftsman executes it will make a world of difference. %% According to {{Harshang Zaveri, Harshang Jewellers Pvt. Ltd.,}} |*“Apart from the precious setting where you can see five different diamonds together to give one stone look, the overlaying of two cuts of stones is gaining popularity in India over the past one year. Also known as the single cut-double cut combination, the two stones are set together in such a way that they form to look like a large stone.”*| However, they are two different methods. The single cut overrides the double cut in such a way that it looks like one single stone and is more camouflaged. The setting used is a near placement of two diamonds in prongs and the metal is not visible. %% {{The One Carat Illusion :}}$$ The settings are highly popular. According to {{Harshang Zaveri,}}|*” People who cannot afford a one-carat diamond ring could have one-carat look like on their fingers. Unless you view the stones very closely, you cannot make out the difference.”*|%% {{The Feasibility Factor :}}$$ While the micro-pave settings require utmost precision, according to {{Jaymin Vora,}} the micro settings take double the amount of time to set stones as compared to other normal settings. However, it depends on the jewellery being manufactured. %% The German micro setting offers high German quality at competitive prices and a faster and better output. Growing with inclusions of new designs every year, the Mystere and Mystique settings are feasible and production-friendly. Though the efficiency is almost as much of the normal setting in technique, it can be thrice time-consuming as compared to the traditional prong-set or channel-set. However, the gemstones for the patented settings do not need to be modified in any special way. The overlaying of two cuts of diamonds could take about 10 to 15 days depending on the design of the jewellery. %% {{The Strength Factor :}}$$ Normally the setting should have the strength to bear the weight of the gemstone. However due to any rough use or mishap if the gemstone falls down, replacing it is the only remedy. While most of the repair of jewellery with common settings can be done at any jeweller in the country, in case of patented settings or cuts, the damaged ornament would have to be sent to the manufacturer. Nonetheless, with companies experimenting and investing in research and development for better techniques, we can see innovative ways of alluring the consumer with jewellery studded with the mesmerizing gemstone.

Since time immemorial, precious and semi-precious gemstones studded jewellery has mesmerized many a jewellery connoisseur for the beauty and the sparkle of the gemstone itself. However, the scintillating jewel goes beyond just the stone and includes one of the most important parts of the ornament – the setting of the gemstone. Apart from providing support to the stone, setting helps highlight the gem and thereby add to its radiance. %% {{Common Settings :}}$$ There are different settings that are popular in the jewellery market. Each of these settings is used considering the specific market requirements. While the classical style settings such as prong, pavè and invisible are popular worldwide, settings like flush, precious, pressure, nick, tension, channel, and bezel are also in vogue. %% {{Development of Settings :}}$$ Talking about the methods of setting in the past and present, {{Michael Kedem, Mirage Lifestyle,}} says, |*“Jewellery manufacturing has been around for quite a long time – around thousands of years. So the different techniques were explored around the past few centuries. The only difference today is how we specialize in the selected technique. Previously one had limited tools, machinery, and knowledge on how to do the things. Today the specializing level has reached a level better than what it was even imagined possible in the past. I would call it the purifying technique where everything is clean and pure.{{There are no flaws.}} That is the difference.”*|%% However, as trends and tastes of jewellery have changed over the years, there has been little innovation in the industry concerning completely new setting forms. {{Ranak Patel, Inter Carat says, }}|*“There is a definite change in trends and tastes of jewellery. But this has not percolated down to the choice of the settings used.” Talking about her company’s work on improving the common preferred styles, she quotes, “We have definitely introduced new techniques and improvisations in the popular classic settings, which enhance the beauty of the piece further and help in increasing our productivity in terms of output.”*| {{Under the Microscope :}}$$ For the upscale jewellery market, {{micro pave}} is very popular. The micro pave is a delicate take on the pave setting where diamonds are set in multiple rows over the surface of the jewellery pie under a stereoscopic microscope. When set using this technique, it is only the diamonds, which are seen and there is hardly any metal part that is visible. The gemstones used in the setting do not go above 1.5mm size. In addition, the prongs in this setting technique can be as small as 0.20mm. %% The setting is done with precision that enhances the beauty of the ornament. Says Michael, |*“The microscope is creating an extensive difference. You are working on magnification between 10 and 40. Nonetheless, if micro pave is done well, you get the look of a carpet of gemstones imparting a very rich look. The value for money is excellent as you get bigger gemstone look when you are actually using many smaller ones.” *|

While micro pave has made inroads into the Indian market, {{Jaymin Vora, Romil Impex}} feels that myths pertaining to the setting are still in the air. He says, |*“We have had people coming to us and showing us jewellery pieces of small gemstones set in a normal prong setting, while claiming it to be micro pave. Then it becomes imperative for us to explain the difference.”*|%% {{Popularity of Micro Pave Settings :}}$$ Mirage Lifestyle is a specialist in micro pave settings.{{ Michael}} quotes, |*“Lots of people recognise our setting because it is different. When people see our product, they find it easier to decide to go with our product compared to other products with same stone quality/quantity or with same price. They get their value for money because of the way the jewellery is being designed, blended and executed.”*|%% {{Patented Settings :}}$$ Some believe that patency of stones or settings are applicable in western countries. Besides, by patenting a product they believe that the company does not have an edge over its competitors. Nonetheless, many companies have resorted to patenting their special settings. Fine Jewellery Mfg. Ltd. owns a patented diamond setting collection called the {{‘Mystere’,}} which offers a unique look to the product. Says {{Sohil Kothari, Fine Jewellery,}} |*“Mystere technique enables settings of diamonds in a manner that enhances the sheer brilliance and lustre of the jewellery by giving it a continuous look and providing opulence to the diamonds.” *|%% Currently under the process of patenting is the {{German micro setting }}by Inter Carat. According to {{Ranak Patel,}} |*“The features of this setting are perfectly calibrated walls in terms of thickness and height; minimal metal thickness of prongs and hence a bigger exposure of the gemstone table; precisely gauged notches to hold the gemstone securely and can be consistently adapted even for the smallest stones.” *|%% {{Jewellery in Which Patented Settings Used? }}$$ While the Mystere setting is available in different shapes like round, oval, square, trillion and hearts, it is also used for any type of diamond, ruby or sapphire jewellery, whether it is the basic pendant, necklace, bangle, etc. The German micro setting is used for round gemstones and in pave and prong setting styles. Considering that bridal jewellery is exposed to more daily wear and tear than other forms of jewellery and is expected to last forever (like the relationship), Inter Carat has perfected the technique for extensive use in bridal rings. %% {{Popularity of Patented Settings :}}$$ The patented settings have made inroads and are popular in India and abroad. Talking about the popularity of the Mystere setting, {{Sohil Kothari}} of |*Fine Jewellery*| says, |*“The collection that is patented for its setting technique across the globe is a bestseller in the US, UK and other European Countries. With a flexibility to be set into various designs, this specific technique allows for a number of surprising jewellery items which have proven their worth at the retail level.”*| {{Ranak Patel}} says, |*“The German micro setting allows for better brilliance of the gemstone and higher productivity. It is a win-win situation for our customers and us.”*|%% {{Providing the “Solitaire” Look :}}$$ With prices escalating, many customers who wish to have jewellery with the look of a large single stone, can now do so, thanks to various settings and cuts available in the market. {{ Sohil Kothari }}says, |*“In the Mystere setting, the diamonds are set in a way to produce the solitaire look. In this setting, the diamonds are set in multiple layers that offer a look of single diamond. In addition we have the Mystique technique (another patented setting) which offers a solitaire look to the product apart from the invisible setting in which princess cut diamonds are set closely together giving a solitaire effect.”*|

To bring out the solitaire effect, Inter Carat is best at using the pressure setting to replicate the look of a large single gemstone while using multiple gems. Although the pressure setting is a commonly used setting, according to Ranak Patel, the finesse with which a craftsman executes it will make a world of difference. %% According to {{Harshang Zaveri, Harshang Jewellers Pvt. Ltd.,}} |*“Apart from the precious setting where you can see five different diamonds together to give one stone look, the overlaying of two cuts of stones is gaining popularity in India over the past one year. Also known as the single cut-double cut combination, the two stones are set together in such a way that they form to look like a large stone.”*| However, they are two different methods. The single cut overrides the double cut in such a way that it looks like one single stone and is more camouflaged. The setting used is a near placement of two diamonds in prongs and the metal is not visible. %% {{The One Carat Illusion :}}$$ The settings are highly popular. According to {{Harshang Zaveri,}}|*” People who cannot afford a one-carat diamond ring could have one-carat look like on their fingers. Unless you view the stones very closely, you cannot make out the difference.”*|%% {{The Feasibility Factor :}}$$ While the micro-pave settings require utmost precision, according to {{Jaymin Vora,}} the micro settings take double the amount of time to set stones as compared to other normal settings. However, it depends on the jewellery being manufactured. %% The German micro setting offers high German quality at competitive prices and a faster and better output. Growing with inclusions of new designs every year, the Mystere and Mystique settings are feasible and production-friendly. Though the efficiency is almost as much of the normal setting in technique, it can be thrice time-consuming as compared to the traditional prong-set or channel-set. However, the gemstones for the patented settings do not need to be modified in any special way. The overlaying of two cuts of diamonds could take about 10 to 15 days depending on the design of the jewellery. %% {{The Strength Factor :}}$$ Normally the setting should have the strength to bear the weight of the gemstone. However due to any rough use or mishap if the gemstone falls down, replacing it is the only remedy. While most of the repair of jewellery with common settings can be done at any jeweller in the country, in case of patented settings or cuts, the damaged ornament would have to be sent to the manufacturer. Nonetheless, with companies experimenting and investing in research and development for better techniques, we can see innovative ways of alluring the consumer with jewellery studded with the mesmerizing gemstone.