Once favoured for being a ruby look-alike, rubellite or reddish-pink tourmaline is now a standalone favourite that is currently much in demand, particularly in China. Stephen Rego explores the stunning beauty of this popular gemstone and the reasons for the sudden surge in demand. %% W hen Natalie Portman walked up on stage amidst thunderous applause to claim the much coveted Best Actress Award at this year's Oscar ceremony, the leading star of Darren Aronofsky's Black Swan sported a pair of Tiffany rubellite tassel earrings that stood out particularly well thanks to the wavy hair do she sported for the occasion. %% The glam girl's choice of gemstone was not unusual, for rubellite (which is actually reddish pink tourmaline) has long been a favourite of the créme de la créme of society. A few centuries ago, it perhaps owed its popularity to its close resemblance to the more favoured ruby, and there are reports that some of the jewellery that Peter the Great is said to have commissioned for the Russian Imperial Court in the 17th century were later identified as rubellite, not ruby, as they were originally thought to be.

But it is not this characteristic alone that makes the gemstone extra special. So special in fact, that it stands out in the tourmaline family where most other varieties are known by their colour– blue tourmaline, green tourmaline, yellow tourmaline etc, – as the one that has a special name that gives it a unique identity of its own. %% Of course, the special name is an acknowledgement of its special features, most notably a richness of colour. The term reddish pink that is most commonly used to describe the gemstone only captures a few of the striking shades of beautiful nuances from red to shocking pink that this gemstone is known to possess –and there are rubellites which have the deep red of the ruby, and those that are almost a purplish violet or a shocking pink in actuality.

The broader category of tourmaline is said to get its name from the Sinhalese 'turmali', which means 'mixed parcel' or 'stone with mixed colours', while rubellite is believed to come from the Latin 'rubellus', which means reddish. %% But more than its colour shades, what also sets the stone apart is the standardised shade of its tint when viewed both in daylight and in artificial light. Many other gem-stones are known to change their colour in such varied conditions, but experts assert that the true rubellite shines with the same intensity in all conditions, while certain other pink or red tourmalines, exhibit a brownish tint in artificial light. %% Another distinguishing feature of rubellite is the impression it gives of having a dual colour. This is because rubellite is doubly refractive, or in technical terms pleochroic, and therefore the primary and secondary colours in the stone appear to shine with different intensities when viewed from different angles. Most often a polished rubellite will have primary pure reds visible in combination with the secondary purples or pinks, and while the pure red stones are rated higher in value, the purplish-reds are the vast majority. %% Due to its crystal structure, most rubellite is imperfect to some degree. But, in sync with its 'exception-to-the-rule' nomenclature, rubellite is also one of the rare gemstones where an inclusion can actually be favoured. For while clarity is a key feature that connoisseurs usually look for, in the case of rubellite, certain types of inclusions can give the stones an added value for the interesting light variations that they conjure up. Of course, there is a rider – the inclusions must not obstruct the light, or make it appear cloudy or milky, nor must they be too clearly visible! %% Rubellite crystals are striated, having a triangular cross-section along with a rounded outline. They might also occur having a fibrous habit, and show a cat's-eye when cut en cabochon. %% Like all other gemstones, rubellites too can be cut in various ways, with the primary factor that needs to be taken into account being the varying intensity of the colour. Rubellites are mainly found in Brazil, Madagascar, Mozambique, Nigeria and Pakistan, while some beautiful shocking pink rubellites come from a gemstone mine in the USA.

{{Market Dynamics }}%% Supply has always been a matter of concern for rubellite as there are only a few modern commercially significant deposits, with current supply being almost entirely from Africa, where the gemstone was first discovered in 1998 after Brazilian deposits had peaked in the 70s and 80s. But it is a limited supply, and a recent spurt in demand from China, has revived a somewhat slow business to a great extent. %% Says Vivek Kala of Kinu Baba Gems Ltd, one of the larger manufacturers of the gemstone in Jaipur, “During the last year, the Chinese market has been booming, and this has resulted in a large demand for many gemstones, particularly rubellite. A lot of finished goods are now going straight to China, and if there was a more assured supply, we would perhaps be able to find buyers for the extra goods as well.” %% Nirmal Kumar Bardiya of RMC Gems, another large gemstone manufacturer in Jaipur concurs. “There is some flow of rough to the manufacturers, so we are able to meet the strong demand for rubellite from China, and realise reasonable prices over the last year. But, though better than in the case of many other gemstones, the supply is still not as steady as we would have liked.” %% Indian manufacturers are mainly dealing in loose stones, and there is no significant export of jewellery using this stone, he avers. Is the Chinese demand a fashion trend that will die out? Kala replies that the business is largely through a few distributors and so it is difficult for manufacturers here to know how long the trend will sustain. %% According to Bardiya, “Tourmaline has always been seen as a good luck charm in China and the recent spurt in demand for rubellite is a result of this factor.” %% Clearly, like in other sectors of the gems and jewellery industry, which were seriously impacted by the recession in the US and Europe, the revival in demand in the coloured gemstone segment is also being driven by the emerging markets, specifically China, in the case of rubellite. %% Shortages characterise the supply of raw materials and so prices have risen over the last year, but there is a very real fear that unless the producers get more organised and mining systems are modernised, the gemstone trade will be severely affected.

Once favoured for being a ruby look-alike, rubellite or reddish-pink tourmaline is now a standalone favourite that is currently much in demand, particularly in China. Stephen Rego explores the stunning beauty of this popular gemstone and the reasons for the sudden surge in demand. %% W hen Natalie Portman walked up on stage amidst thunderous applause to claim the much coveted Best Actress Award at this year's Oscar ceremony, the leading star of Darren Aronofsky's Black Swan sported a pair of Tiffany rubellite tassel earrings that stood out particularly well thanks to the wavy hair do she sported for the occasion. %% The glam girl's choice of gemstone was not unusual, for rubellite (which is actually reddish pink tourmaline) has long been a favourite of the créme de la créme of society. A few centuries ago, it perhaps owed its popularity to its close resemblance to the more favoured ruby, and there are reports that some of the jewellery that Peter the Great is said to have commissioned for the Russian Imperial Court in the 17th century were later identified as rubellite, not ruby, as they were originally thought to be.

But it is not this characteristic alone that makes the gemstone extra special. So special in fact, that it stands out in the tourmaline family where most other varieties are known by their colour– blue tourmaline, green tourmaline, yellow tourmaline etc, – as the one that has a special name that gives it a unique identity of its own. %% Of course, the special name is an acknowledgement of its special features, most notably a richness of colour. The term reddish pink that is most commonly used to describe the gemstone only captures a few of the striking shades of beautiful nuances from red to shocking pink that this gemstone is known to possess –and there are rubellites which have the deep red of the ruby, and those that are almost a purplish violet or a shocking pink in actuality.

The broader category of tourmaline is said to get its name from the Sinhalese 'turmali', which means 'mixed parcel' or 'stone with mixed colours', while rubellite is believed to come from the Latin 'rubellus', which means reddish. %% But more than its colour shades, what also sets the stone apart is the standardised shade of its tint when viewed both in daylight and in artificial light. Many other gem-stones are known to change their colour in such varied conditions, but experts assert that the true rubellite shines with the same intensity in all conditions, while certain other pink or red tourmalines, exhibit a brownish tint in artificial light. %% Another distinguishing feature of rubellite is the impression it gives of having a dual colour. This is because rubellite is doubly refractive, or in technical terms pleochroic, and therefore the primary and secondary colours in the stone appear to shine with different intensities when viewed from different angles. Most often a polished rubellite will have primary pure reds visible in combination with the secondary purples or pinks, and while the pure red stones are rated higher in value, the purplish-reds are the vast majority. %% Due to its crystal structure, most rubellite is imperfect to some degree. But, in sync with its 'exception-to-the-rule' nomenclature, rubellite is also one of the rare gemstones where an inclusion can actually be favoured. For while clarity is a key feature that connoisseurs usually look for, in the case of rubellite, certain types of inclusions can give the stones an added value for the interesting light variations that they conjure up. Of course, there is a rider – the inclusions must not obstruct the light, or make it appear cloudy or milky, nor must they be too clearly visible! %% Rubellite crystals are striated, having a triangular cross-section along with a rounded outline. They might also occur having a fibrous habit, and show a cat's-eye when cut en cabochon. %% Like all other gemstones, rubellites too can be cut in various ways, with the primary factor that needs to be taken into account being the varying intensity of the colour. Rubellites are mainly found in Brazil, Madagascar, Mozambique, Nigeria and Pakistan, while some beautiful shocking pink rubellites come from a gemstone mine in the USA.

{{Market Dynamics }}%% Supply has always been a matter of concern for rubellite as there are only a few modern commercially significant deposits, with current supply being almost entirely from Africa, where the gemstone was first discovered in 1998 after Brazilian deposits had peaked in the 70s and 80s. But it is a limited supply, and a recent spurt in demand from China, has revived a somewhat slow business to a great extent. %% Says Vivek Kala of Kinu Baba Gems Ltd, one of the larger manufacturers of the gemstone in Jaipur, “During the last year, the Chinese market has been booming, and this has resulted in a large demand for many gemstones, particularly rubellite. A lot of finished goods are now going straight to China, and if there was a more assured supply, we would perhaps be able to find buyers for the extra goods as well.” %% Nirmal Kumar Bardiya of RMC Gems, another large gemstone manufacturer in Jaipur concurs. “There is some flow of rough to the manufacturers, so we are able to meet the strong demand for rubellite from China, and realise reasonable prices over the last year. But, though better than in the case of many other gemstones, the supply is still not as steady as we would have liked.” %% Indian manufacturers are mainly dealing in loose stones, and there is no significant export of jewellery using this stone, he avers. Is the Chinese demand a fashion trend that will die out? Kala replies that the business is largely through a few distributors and so it is difficult for manufacturers here to know how long the trend will sustain. %% According to Bardiya, “Tourmaline has always been seen as a good luck charm in China and the recent spurt in demand for rubellite is a result of this factor.” %% Clearly, like in other sectors of the gems and jewellery industry, which were seriously impacted by the recession in the US and Europe, the revival in demand in the coloured gemstone segment is also being driven by the emerging markets, specifically China, in the case of rubellite. %% Shortages characterise the supply of raw materials and so prices have risen over the last year, but there is a very real fear that unless the producers get more organised and mining systems are modernised, the gemstone trade will be severely affected.

Once favoured for being a ruby look-alike, rubellite or reddish-pink tourmaline is now a standalone favourite that is currently much in demand, particularly in China. Stephen Rego explores the stunning beauty of this popular gemstone and the reasons for the sudden surge in demand. %% W hen Natalie Portman walked up on stage amidst thunderous applause to claim the much coveted Best Actress Award at this year's Oscar ceremony, the leading star of Darren Aronofsky's Black Swan sported a pair of Tiffany rubellite tassel earrings that stood out particularly well thanks to the wavy hair do she sported for the occasion. %% The glam girl's choice of gemstone was not unusual, for rubellite (which is actually reddish pink tourmaline) has long been a favourite of the créme de la créme of society. A few centuries ago, it perhaps owed its popularity to its close resemblance to the more favoured ruby, and there are reports that some of the jewellery that Peter the Great is said to have commissioned for the Russian Imperial Court in the 17th century were later identified as rubellite, not ruby, as they were originally thought to be.

But it is not this characteristic alone that makes the gemstone extra special. So special in fact, that it stands out in the tourmaline family where most other varieties are known by their colour– blue tourmaline, green tourmaline, yellow tourmaline etc, – as the one that has a special name that gives it a unique identity of its own. %% Of course, the special name is an acknowledgement of its special features, most notably a richness of colour. The term reddish pink that is most commonly used to describe the gemstone only captures a few of the striking shades of beautiful nuances from red to shocking pink that this gemstone is known to possess –and there are rubellites which have the deep red of the ruby, and those that are almost a purplish violet or a shocking pink in actuality.

The broader category of tourmaline is said to get its name from the Sinhalese 'turmali', which means 'mixed parcel' or 'stone with mixed colours', while rubellite is believed to come from the Latin 'rubellus', which means reddish. %% But more than its colour shades, what also sets the stone apart is the standardised shade of its tint when viewed both in daylight and in artificial light. Many other gem-stones are known to change their colour in such varied conditions, but experts assert that the true rubellite shines with the same intensity in all conditions, while certain other pink or red tourmalines, exhibit a brownish tint in artificial light. %% Another distinguishing feature of rubellite is the impression it gives of having a dual colour. This is because rubellite is doubly refractive, or in technical terms pleochroic, and therefore the primary and secondary colours in the stone appear to shine with different intensities when viewed from different angles. Most often a polished rubellite will have primary pure reds visible in combination with the secondary purples or pinks, and while the pure red stones are rated higher in value, the purplish-reds are the vast majority. %% Due to its crystal structure, most rubellite is imperfect to some degree. But, in sync with its 'exception-to-the-rule' nomenclature, rubellite is also one of the rare gemstones where an inclusion can actually be favoured. For while clarity is a key feature that connoisseurs usually look for, in the case of rubellite, certain types of inclusions can give the stones an added value for the interesting light variations that they conjure up. Of course, there is a rider – the inclusions must not obstruct the light, or make it appear cloudy or milky, nor must they be too clearly visible! %% Rubellite crystals are striated, having a triangular cross-section along with a rounded outline. They might also occur having a fibrous habit, and show a cat's-eye when cut en cabochon. %% Like all other gemstones, rubellites too can be cut in various ways, with the primary factor that needs to be taken into account being the varying intensity of the colour. Rubellites are mainly found in Brazil, Madagascar, Mozambique, Nigeria and Pakistan, while some beautiful shocking pink rubellites come from a gemstone mine in the USA.

{{Market Dynamics }}%% Supply has always been a matter of concern for rubellite as there are only a few modern commercially significant deposits, with current supply being almost entirely from Africa, where the gemstone was first discovered in 1998 after Brazilian deposits had peaked in the 70s and 80s. But it is a limited supply, and a recent spurt in demand from China, has revived a somewhat slow business to a great extent. %% Says Vivek Kala of Kinu Baba Gems Ltd, one of the larger manufacturers of the gemstone in Jaipur, “During the last year, the Chinese market has been booming, and this has resulted in a large demand for many gemstones, particularly rubellite. A lot of finished goods are now going straight to China, and if there was a more assured supply, we would perhaps be able to find buyers for the extra goods as well.” %% Nirmal Kumar Bardiya of RMC Gems, another large gemstone manufacturer in Jaipur concurs. “There is some flow of rough to the manufacturers, so we are able to meet the strong demand for rubellite from China, and realise reasonable prices over the last year. But, though better than in the case of many other gemstones, the supply is still not as steady as we would have liked.” %% Indian manufacturers are mainly dealing in loose stones, and there is no significant export of jewellery using this stone, he avers. Is the Chinese demand a fashion trend that will die out? Kala replies that the business is largely through a few distributors and so it is difficult for manufacturers here to know how long the trend will sustain. %% According to Bardiya, “Tourmaline has always been seen as a good luck charm in China and the recent spurt in demand for rubellite is a result of this factor.” %% Clearly, like in other sectors of the gems and jewellery industry, which were seriously impacted by the recession in the US and Europe, the revival in demand in the coloured gemstone segment is also being driven by the emerging markets, specifically China, in the case of rubellite. %% Shortages characterise the supply of raw materials and so prices have risen over the last year, but there is a very real fear that unless the producers get more organised and mining systems are modernised, the gemstone trade will be severely affected.