The landscape of Jewellery design is ever-evolving in India. While gold still seems to be the most-preferred metal by all and sundry, people are increasingly inclined towards experimenting these days. And this in-turn has opened up a coliseum of opportunities for designers who thrive on creativity and are now trying out precious stones like tourmaline and yellow sapphire in their jewellery.

They are also taking a cue from international runways and are creating jewellery that is practical and wearable, because women all over the country have their eyes on lightweight jewellery. From emerald and other green precious stones to multi-purpose jewellery pieces and big bold statement earrings, this year is witnessing a mélange of interesting jewellery trends.

Bold & Beautiful

Trends are always cyclical; designers often take cues from the yesteryear and one trend in the earring department which has made a major comeback is the “stud”. When it comes to studs, the big bold ones are very in according to our survey. From studs in floral motifs encrusted with precious stones and diamonds to the ones in gold and geometric shapes are particularly trending. Modern and abstract stud designs in a combination of precious stones such as emeralds and diamonds, sapphires and rubies and even pearls are vastly popular according to many retailers. While jhumkas and statement hoops are still popular, customers come looking for bold studs. For those who like to make a statement, the big, bold ones are in while those who prefer a more minimalist approach, dainty ear studs and even solitaires are fast moving.

Cuff Parade

Wide cuffs that latch on to the delicate wrist have been in fashion for a few years now and the trend is not going anywhere. If you look at the latest collections launched by many a retailer and designer, cuffs take the center stage. These cuffs normally make a statement themselves and are deeming to be a promising fashion investment among customers. From the house of Gehna to jewellers like Leshna Shah, Dwarakdas Chandmul and Ganjam, exclusive collections pertaining to broad cuffs have been extremely popular. Even in the bridal line, cuffs in the form of statement kadas in pure gold are selling like hot cakes. When we asked designers and retailers about the most fast moving piece of hand jewellery, they unanimously voted for broad cuffs.

Choker Mania!
From sleek neck huggers to chunky, studded ones, chokers have the attention of most jewellers right now. A retro favourite, women have worn chokers for generations either in the traditional manner or with a hint of modish appeal. From Oscars to Cannes and our very own Indian award shows, red carpets were full of dazzling chokers. Chokers today come in a smattering of precious stones like diamonds, pearls, emeralds, rubies and even tanzanites. These colourful gemstones shine best when studded in these neck-hugging necklaces.

Light & Breezy

The demand for lightweight jewellery in India is unwavering as evidenced by the recent collections released by most brands. Even brides prefer light weight jewellery that they can wear on a daily basis. “Many women and young girls opt for light-weight jewellery. This enables them to adorn fine jewellery in a subtle and elegant way. They like to invest in palm bracelets, cuffs, full finger rings or sometimes they can chose to wear a bold statement necklace or a long diamond studded chain,” says Sunil Datwani, Owner, Gehna.

The brand recently launched a trendy light weight collection for the modern working woman. They are anytime go to jewellery pieces and fit in comfortably in the many roles a woman assays from dawn to dusk. “Light weight jewellery is in when it comes to stores that cater to the mass, but not with standalone stores like ours. Though we keep a few light weight pieces our focus is on one of a kind high end pieces,” says Rajesh Tulsiani, Director, Dwarkadas Chandumal Jewellers.

Leshna Shah, Creative Head and Cofounder Aurelle says, “People are moving away to lighter, practical jewellery because once you buy a heritage piece you don’t end up wearing it again for a while – at least till the next big occasion. My clients today prefer jewellery that can be worn to glamourize their day and hence the quick, easy, chic pieces are the preferred ones these days.”

Anmol, Mumbai based fine jewellery brand recently launched an elegant range of light-weight jewellery called the Star Dust collection. The collection ranges from delicate earrings, pendants, rings to neck pieces all crafted in 18 K rose gold. “Women these days have an active social life and they look for design-oriented, versatile & statement jewellery which woul complement both modern & traditional silhouettes. There’s also been a significant rise in professional, working women who prefer practical  wearable jewellery in light-weight designs. Technological innovations and ingenious craftsmanship techniques like micro-pave setting in diamond jewellery also help us design jewellery which looks big yet weightless,” says Ishu Datwani, Founder, Anmol.

Valli Krishnama, Senior Designer, Ganjam Studio says, “The industry is witnessing a shift of preference towards light weight jewellery. Even if the look is bold, it helps if the overall product is light. With the younger client opting to buy precious jewellery, the focus shifts from heavy, traditional jewellery to more wearable lightweight products.”

Indian Jewellery stores are still by and large frequented by housewives

While abroad, there is a distinct trend of self-purchasing women, in India, jewellery stores are still frequented by housewives according to our survey. “Ours is a family run jewellery brand, besides being blessed with loyal customers we have a lot of new customers coming in to chec light weight jewellery which is currently trending in the market. We have customers ranging from 21 to 65 years and above,” says Gadgil. But this is not quite the case when it comes to online retailing. “So our targe audience is not restricted in terms of age group. Customers pleasantly surprise us every single day. Women customers are inclined towards colourful gemstone these days and usually opt for stylish and contemporary pieces that are encrusted with semi-precious stones like emeralds, amethyst, topaz and others. Customers have also started customizing their engagement rings and wedding jewellery. In fact, we have been able to close a deal worth Rs. 1.62 Cr on Whatsapp!” says Kapil.

Emerald Envy

If the jewellery shows and tradefairs have taught us one thing, it is the reigning popularity of emerald. Considering green is the Pantone colour of the year, jewellers are putting their money in emeralds. “Emeralds have ascertained their supremacy as a favorite with the jewellery connoisseur. The winning combination of diamonds and emeralds is a huge draw among clients. Many brides too like emeralds in their wedding jewellery.

This gemstone is here to stay,” says Sunil. While people have all eyes on this green beauty, other precious stones like rubies and sapphires come a close second. “Rubies, emeralds as well as sapphires are all fast moving these days. India is a great market for colour stones and we at Aurelle love experimenting with shapes forms and colors,” says Leshna. With the increase in demand for designer jewellery, the use of unusual gemstones is on the rise.

Gold is Forever

You can’t remove the affinity towards gold from an Indian consumer. A metal that is considered auspicious and a solid investment for a rainy day, gold hasn’t gone out of fashion and will not for the foreseeable future. In fact, light weight jewellery in 18 K gold is so much in demand nowadays.Says Suni Datwani, “It is rosegold that is making big news this season. Both runway and street style showed the fashion conscious consumer that rose gold works brilliantly for day, night, the party season and everything in between.” Even for online jewellery retailers, gold jewellery demand is always on the rise. “Gold is synonymous with Indian jewellery and no matter what the price peaks to, the penchant for gold jewellery remains unfazed, and continues to be the dominant metal in the market,” says Kapil Hetamsaria, CEO & Co-Founder, VelvetCase.com

Rising Popularity of Designer Jewellery

An exposure to what’s happening around the world in terms of jewellery and a change in the perception of aesthetics has given rise to the demand of designer jewellery. People, the upper class especially, who can afford designer jewellery, want their jewellery to be one of a kind. “The Indian customer is increasingly becoming more design-conscious, is aware of fashion trends and at the same time also ready for making an investment,” says Kapil. People understand the jewellery they want to buy and they are inclined towards expressing their personality through the jewellery they buy. “With more and more products being mass produced and having a generic language, the customer today craves for a product which is unique and expresses their individuality. A product which is designed incorporates all theses aspects and so it stands out amongst commercial run of the mill jewellery,” says Valli.

Move to Mod
While the conventional pieces are always in demand, people prefer their jewellery to be edgy, with a modern accent to it. Contemporary jewellery with western influence that draws inspiration from European designs are all the rage right now. “The big jewellery trend popular
these days is very classic European & International designs with highly superior craftsmanship, keeping in mind the weight, the flexibility and the finish of the jewellery,” says Ishu. The use of unconventional gemstones like white topaz, black pearls, opals and tourmalines and the increase in design aesthetics that is more geometrical and angular in nature reflect the preference of modern sensibility when it comes to jewellery. “In the interiors
and rural areas people still prefer wearing traditional jewellery while in metropolitans people are increasingly fond of jewellery that has a touch of modern elements to it,” says Rajesh.

Silver Lining
Silver is a more versatile metal tha is also affordable when compared to gold. While gold is the mainstay for the older generation, the designs on offer when it comes to silver jewellery has a strong appeal on the younger crop of customers, especially in the fashion jewellery segment. “Customers’ are extremely smart and judicious with their hard-earned money and they will not make a purchase unless they are fully satisfied with what they are buying, be it online or offline or it is a high-ticket purchase or a low-ticket item. We are seeing a lot of growth in the Silver Jewellery market, especially Silver Swarovski Jewellery,” says Kapil.

Mumbai based PNG Jewellers has rightly identified the rise in demand for silver jewellery. “Lately, silver has gained a lot of prominence. It is gaining popularity at a very fast pace because of the availability of a wide variety designs. They are easy on the pocket and millennial nowadays like experimenting with their looks on a daily basis and silver aids as a mix and match for their styling,” says Saurabh Gadgil -CMD PNG Jewellers & Director IBJA.