An exquisite collection of statement earrings, rings, bracelets, necklaces, trend setting bangles and much more are perfect to express how special the First lady of your life is.
Kolkata’s jewellery industry is one of the oldest in the country. Renowned the world over for its impeccable craftsmanship and meticulous design detail, the city’s undisputed top position as the commercial hub of the East has contributed immensely to its preeminence as an important centre for the jewellery trade
too. From manufacturing, to wholesale, retail and export – the Kolkata
jewellery industry spans it all, and is highly competitive, but truly prosperous.%%
Roli Gupta takes a bird’s eye view of this city that is fittingly called the
backbone of the Indian jewellery trade. %%
Ask the Kolkata bhadralok to describe this city in one sentence, and you have a task
that’s well nigh impossible. A picture, as the
old saying goes, is worth a thousand words; here
even a thousand pictures would fall short. And
the same is true for the jewellery trade in Kolkata,
simply because of the sheer size of the industry
here – Kolkata and its outskirts boast nearly 6000
jewellery manufacturing units employing almost
15 lakh workers. The Domzur area is amongst the
largest diamond jewellery manufacturing hubs
in India, while the Sinthee area in North Kolkata
has the plain gold jewellery manufacturing units.
Burra Bazaar is the very heart of the city’s trade
with 300 shops packed (quite literally) into a one
km area. Park Street, Theatre Road, Camac Street
and the Salt Lake area have all the plush jewellery
showrooms. %%
Amidst the myriad montages that
comprise Kolkata’s jewellery trade, one
element stands out – when it comes to
excellence in craftsmanship, this city’s
karigars rule the roost. Even as various
infl uences have come and gone, these
craftsmen have not only managed to
incorporate markedly distinctive styles
into their craft, but have actually taken the
artisanship to a different plane altogether.
What is more, the ubiquitous Bangali
babu is to be seen in almost all signifi cant
jewellery manufacturing centres in the
country and is the backbone of this industry’s
craftsmanship.
As Siddharthaa Sawansukha of the awardwinning
and well-known Sawansukha Jewellers,
explains, “The Mughals, Rajputs, and the other
cultures that have been a part of the country
since ancient times have left an indelible mark
on jewellery styles. Mughal jewellery was
renowned for its distinctive
intricate carvings, the
Rajputs their enamel
work. Kolkata always
had an abundance
of skilled labour
with an expertise in
handcrafted jewellery.
The handcrafting
technique has been
instrumental in adding a silver
lining to the jewellery souk of Kolkata. %%
History has it that Bengali karigars were taken
to Mumbai and trained to manufacture gold
and diamond jewellery.â€
Niraj Surana of Surana Gems
and Jewellery, a fourth generation
jeweller, adds, “Jewellery
manufacturing is a very old
profession in Bengal. We have skilled
craftsmen – both in plain gold jewellery
and diamond studded jewellery – who
also work all over the world and are in
great demand.†%%
Subir Kumar Sen of BC Sen Jewellers,
who have been in the city for 123 years, talks
about the jewellery of the region. “The jewellery
of Bengal has its roots deep in the Shunga period
of history,†he explains. “High quality gold sheet
work that goes into making extremely lightweight
jewellery, fi ligree and granulation, enameling,
repousse, inlay and engraving techniques of
manufacture are the specialties
here. The artisans of the state
are known for their craft and
Kolkata-made jewellery has
a very unique and distinct
feel that is unmatched by any
other.â€
{{|*The handcrafting technique has been
instrumental in adding a silver lining to the
jewellery souk of Kolkata.*|
- Siddharthaa Sawansukha}}
One wonders why the craftsmanship of the
area is so renowned. Pankaj Parekh of Alankar
Jewellers has an off-beat take on the question.
“Bengali soil is very fertile, there is a bounty of
natural resources,†he explains. “Moreover, the
natural beauty of the region is greatly inspiring,
and has been a major factor in infusing creativity
into the very lifeblood of the people here – it
seems that being artistic is in the DNA of Bengalis.
They are to India what Italians are to Europe –
from music and art to philosophy and dance
and of course, jewellery, the Bengali is extremely
creative. In fact, Bengalis will never be found
working in the diamond cutting and polishing
businesses – these being more or less
mechanical in nature. But diamond setting
and crafting jewellery – that is where the
Kolkata jewellery artisan will truly prove
his mettle. “Intricate†is the one word for
the jewellery here. Take for instance the
famous nakkashi work – the images of
fl ora and fauna and gods and goddesses
that are created using precious gemstones
and metals are unbelievably lifelike.†%%
Naturally then, with such a long history and
tradition in jewellery manufacturing, the Kolkata
consumer is a complete, unabashed jewellery
afi cionado. Typical to the cosmopolitan nature
of the city, her choices in jewellery are eclectic,
both in design and in price points. “And that is
why, we jewellers have to cater to all sections
of the society – so on one hand we may have
a single bangle weighing 85 gms, on the other
there would be entire sets comprising necklace,
earrings, bangles and ring weighing the same!â€
exclaims Parekh. %%
Expounding on consumer
demand further, Surana says,
“We see both traditional and
modern styles doing well,
and the price segment of
Rs. 50,000 to Rs. 2,00,000 in
yellow gold sells the fastest. The
consumer is partial towards fancy
shapes of diamonds – baguettes,
marquise and pear shaped diamonds
are used extensively. Big is beautiful here
– diamonds less than two cents in size are never
used, and the customer is knowledgeable and
smart – she knows her mind and looks for value
for money. Then again, due to low per capita
income only gold jewellery is sold among
the masses; diamonds are bought
only by the elite class and Rajasthani
businessmen.†%%
Sen agrees, “Consumer preferences
are varied and based on requirements.
Having said that, design exclusivity and
innovation is valued here. Moreover,
aesthetics and investment value go
hand-in -hand – she wants both.†%%
Jewellers also agree that the
customer mindset has changed
drastically over the past 15 odd years,
“There has defi nitely been a drastic
change in the way consumers perceive
jewellery,†says Sawansukha. “Trends and design
preferences vary depending upon the wearer’s
status level and social circle. Initially, jewellery
was associated only with weddings but now,
it is a piece of adornment. Consumers have
started preferring jewels with a combination of
traditional and modern concepts. Designer and
customised jewellery are gaining demand whereas
traditional jewellery is evergreen.†The customer
is increasingly inclined towards branded products
too, and there is a distinct shift in the way
business is conducted, he feels. “The unorganised
sector formed a major chunk of the jewellery
retail business in Kolkata for a long time,†adds
Sawansukha. “Earlier, people preferred to buy
jewellery from local jewellers who would come to
their house. Things are changing now and most
consumers wish to buy branded jewellery, or at
least from renowned jewellery stores.†%%
As Sen puts it, “Hallmarking, certifi cation,
value-for-money are the buzz words now.
The customer is far less impulsive in her
purchasing and very conscious of what she
buys – both in terms of the designs and the
value that she is getting from her spending.
Product awareness is very high. Design
concepts have evolved with changes in
fashion and style. Another change we have seen
is the increasing demand for platinum jewellery.†%%
Parekh sees a clear shift towards lightweight
jewellery. “The working woman opts for daily
wear jewellery in modern styles, something
that she can wear easily. Of late, she is more
knowledgeable and is not shy of discussing the
4Cs with her jeweller. Diamond jewellery has
become very fashionable in the last 10
years. Also branded jewellery is
becoming very popular now,
with the average consumer
realising the safety and the
intrinsic value in purchasing
a piece that comes with a
guarantee and certifi cation.†%%
The festive and wedding
seasons are very important
here, as they are for jewellers
across the country. “There is some
serious high-budget spending during
the festive season and the winter
season here,†says Surana with
satisfaction. However, for Kolkata,
the Durga Mahotsav is a festival even
bigger than Diwali, and that’s when
the real spending occurs, feels Sen.
“There is the Bengali New Year in
April, followed by Akshaya Tritiya,
and in August we start preparing
for the Durga Puja crowd, followed
by the usual Dhanteras and Diwali
sales, then in November the wedding
season commences and continues
till February.†Quite a busy schedule
that, and one which augurs well for
the jewellery trade in the city. %%
A calendar that’s blissfully chock-ablock
with festivals and weddings also indicates a
market that thrives despite rising prices of
materials. “Consumers now expect a
high return on jewellery, and we are
actually witnessing a buying
spree since the prices have
risenâ€, explains Sen. %%
Inflation, however, is
affecting the jewellery
business in the city
feels Sawansukha, while
Surana has observed
that consumers spending
within a fixed budget have
been affected – they get less
grammage for their buck now.
Parekh sums it up succinctly,
“No one wants to miss out
on the potential that lies in
investing in jewellery these days.
We have also seen bullion sales
skyrocket. The typical Kolkata denizen’s logic is this
– buying gold at any price is profitable, because
gold prices always increase, never decrease.
Moreover, he will never sell jewellery. Therefore,
from the investment point of view, price rise is
always a positive occurrence.†%%
No wonder then that jewellers are looking at a
good, sustained growth pattern for the city in the
next few years. Sen predicts a 15 per cent increase
and Sawansukha pegs growth at very optimistic
double digit figures. Of course, the growth would
be subject to certain conditions feels Surana.
“The city can expect phenomenal growth if the
recently changed political scenario provides good
governance and stability.†%%
{{|*Design exclusivity and innovation is
valued here. Moreover, aesthetics and
investment value go hand-in-hand – the
consumer wants both.*|
- Subir Kumar Sen}}
{{|*“Intricate†is the one word for the
jewellery here.*|
- Pankaj Parekh}}
{{|*The consumer is partial towards
fancy shapes of diamonds –
baguettes, marquise and pear
shaped diamonds are used
extensively.*|
- Niraj Surana}}
Kolkata’s jewellery industry is one of the oldest in the country. Renowned the world over for its impeccable craftsmanship and meticulous design detail, the city’s undisputed top position as the commercial hub of the East has contributed immensely to its preeminence as an important centre for the jewellery trade
too. From manufacturing, to wholesale, retail and export – the Kolkata
jewellery industry spans it all, and is highly competitive, but truly prosperous.%%
Roli Gupta takes a bird’s eye view of this city that is fittingly called the
backbone of the Indian jewellery trade. %%
Ask the Kolkata bhadralok to describe this city in one sentence, and you have a task
that’s well nigh impossible. A picture, as the
old saying goes, is worth a thousand words; here
even a thousand pictures would fall short. And
the same is true for the jewellery trade in Kolkata,
simply because of the sheer size of the industry
here – Kolkata and its outskirts boast nearly 6000
jewellery manufacturing units employing almost
15 lakh workers. The Domzur area is amongst the
largest diamond jewellery manufacturing hubs
in India, while the Sinthee area in North Kolkata
has the plain gold jewellery manufacturing units.
Burra Bazaar is the very heart of the city’s trade
with 300 shops packed (quite literally) into a one
km area. Park Street, Theatre Road, Camac Street
and the Salt Lake area have all the plush jewellery
showrooms. %%
Amidst the myriad montages that
comprise Kolkata’s jewellery trade, one
element stands out – when it comes to
excellence in craftsmanship, this city’s
karigars rule the roost. Even as various
infl uences have come and gone, these
craftsmen have not only managed to
incorporate markedly distinctive styles
into their craft, but have actually taken the
artisanship to a different plane altogether.
What is more, the ubiquitous Bangali
babu is to be seen in almost all signifi cant
jewellery manufacturing centres in the
country and is the backbone of this industry’s
craftsmanship.
As Siddharthaa Sawansukha of the awardwinning
and well-known Sawansukha Jewellers,
explains, “The Mughals, Rajputs, and the other
cultures that have been a part of the country
since ancient times have left an indelible mark
on jewellery styles. Mughal jewellery was
renowned for its distinctive
intricate carvings, the
Rajputs their enamel
work. Kolkata always
had an abundance
of skilled labour
with an expertise in
handcrafted jewellery.
The handcrafting
technique has been
instrumental in adding a silver
lining to the jewellery souk of Kolkata. %%
History has it that Bengali karigars were taken
to Mumbai and trained to manufacture gold
and diamond jewellery.â€
Niraj Surana of Surana Gems
and Jewellery, a fourth generation
jeweller, adds, “Jewellery
manufacturing is a very old
profession in Bengal. We have skilled
craftsmen – both in plain gold jewellery
and diamond studded jewellery – who
also work all over the world and are in
great demand.†%%
Subir Kumar Sen of BC Sen Jewellers,
who have been in the city for 123 years, talks
about the jewellery of the region. “The jewellery
of Bengal has its roots deep in the Shunga period
of history,†he explains. “High quality gold sheet
work that goes into making extremely lightweight
jewellery, fi ligree and granulation, enameling,
repousse, inlay and engraving techniques of
manufacture are the specialties
here. The artisans of the state
are known for their craft and
Kolkata-made jewellery has
a very unique and distinct
feel that is unmatched by any
other.â€
{{|*The handcrafting technique has been
instrumental in adding a silver lining to the
jewellery souk of Kolkata.*|
- Siddharthaa Sawansukha}}
One wonders why the craftsmanship of the
area is so renowned. Pankaj Parekh of Alankar
Jewellers has an off-beat take on the question.
“Bengali soil is very fertile, there is a bounty of
natural resources,†he explains. “Moreover, the
natural beauty of the region is greatly inspiring,
and has been a major factor in infusing creativity
into the very lifeblood of the people here – it
seems that being artistic is in the DNA of Bengalis.
They are to India what Italians are to Europe –
from music and art to philosophy and dance
and of course, jewellery, the Bengali is extremely
creative. In fact, Bengalis will never be found
working in the diamond cutting and polishing
businesses – these being more or less
mechanical in nature. But diamond setting
and crafting jewellery – that is where the
Kolkata jewellery artisan will truly prove
his mettle. “Intricate†is the one word for
the jewellery here. Take for instance the
famous nakkashi work – the images of
fl ora and fauna and gods and goddesses
that are created using precious gemstones
and metals are unbelievably lifelike.†%%
Naturally then, with such a long history and
tradition in jewellery manufacturing, the Kolkata
consumer is a complete, unabashed jewellery
afi cionado. Typical to the cosmopolitan nature
of the city, her choices in jewellery are eclectic,
both in design and in price points. “And that is
why, we jewellers have to cater to all sections
of the society – so on one hand we may have
a single bangle weighing 85 gms, on the other
there would be entire sets comprising necklace,
earrings, bangles and ring weighing the same!â€
exclaims Parekh. %%
Expounding on consumer
demand further, Surana says,
“We see both traditional and
modern styles doing well,
and the price segment of
Rs. 50,000 to Rs. 2,00,000 in
yellow gold sells the fastest. The
consumer is partial towards fancy
shapes of diamonds – baguettes,
marquise and pear shaped diamonds
are used extensively. Big is beautiful here
– diamonds less than two cents in size are never
used, and the customer is knowledgeable and
smart – she knows her mind and looks for value
for money. Then again, due to low per capita
income only gold jewellery is sold among
the masses; diamonds are bought
only by the elite class and Rajasthani
businessmen.†%%
Sen agrees, “Consumer preferences
are varied and based on requirements.
Having said that, design exclusivity and
innovation is valued here. Moreover,
aesthetics and investment value go
hand-in -hand – she wants both.†%%
Jewellers also agree that the
customer mindset has changed
drastically over the past 15 odd years,
“There has defi nitely been a drastic
change in the way consumers perceive
jewellery,†says Sawansukha. “Trends and design
preferences vary depending upon the wearer’s
status level and social circle. Initially, jewellery
was associated only with weddings but now,
it is a piece of adornment. Consumers have
started preferring jewels with a combination of
traditional and modern concepts. Designer and
customised jewellery are gaining demand whereas
traditional jewellery is evergreen.†The customer
is increasingly inclined towards branded products
too, and there is a distinct shift in the way
business is conducted, he feels. “The unorganised
sector formed a major chunk of the jewellery
retail business in Kolkata for a long time,†adds
Sawansukha. “Earlier, people preferred to buy
jewellery from local jewellers who would come to
their house. Things are changing now and most
consumers wish to buy branded jewellery, or at
least from renowned jewellery stores.†%%
As Sen puts it, “Hallmarking, certifi cation,
value-for-money are the buzz words now.
The customer is far less impulsive in her
purchasing and very conscious of what she
buys – both in terms of the designs and the
value that she is getting from her spending.
Product awareness is very high. Design
concepts have evolved with changes in
fashion and style. Another change we have seen
is the increasing demand for platinum jewellery.†%%
Parekh sees a clear shift towards lightweight
jewellery. “The working woman opts for daily
wear jewellery in modern styles, something
that she can wear easily. Of late, she is more
knowledgeable and is not shy of discussing the
4Cs with her jeweller. Diamond jewellery has
become very fashionable in the last 10
years. Also branded jewellery is
becoming very popular now,
with the average consumer
realising the safety and the
intrinsic value in purchasing
a piece that comes with a
guarantee and certifi cation.†%%
The festive and wedding
seasons are very important
here, as they are for jewellers
across the country. “There is some
serious high-budget spending during
the festive season and the winter
season here,†says Surana with
satisfaction. However, for Kolkata,
the Durga Mahotsav is a festival even
bigger than Diwali, and that’s when
the real spending occurs, feels Sen.
“There is the Bengali New Year in
April, followed by Akshaya Tritiya,
and in August we start preparing
for the Durga Puja crowd, followed
by the usual Dhanteras and Diwali
sales, then in November the wedding
season commences and continues
till February.†Quite a busy schedule
that, and one which augurs well for
the jewellery trade in the city. %%
A calendar that’s blissfully chock-ablock
with festivals and weddings also indicates a
market that thrives despite rising prices of
materials. “Consumers now expect a
high return on jewellery, and we are
actually witnessing a buying
spree since the prices have
risenâ€, explains Sen. %%
Inflation, however, is
affecting the jewellery
business in the city
feels Sawansukha, while
Surana has observed
that consumers spending
within a fixed budget have
been affected – they get less
grammage for their buck now.
Parekh sums it up succinctly,
“No one wants to miss out
on the potential that lies in
investing in jewellery these days.
We have also seen bullion sales
skyrocket. The typical Kolkata denizen’s logic is this
– buying gold at any price is profitable, because
gold prices always increase, never decrease.
Moreover, he will never sell jewellery. Therefore,
from the investment point of view, price rise is
always a positive occurrence.†%%
No wonder then that jewellers are looking at a
good, sustained growth pattern for the city in the
next few years. Sen predicts a 15 per cent increase
and Sawansukha pegs growth at very optimistic
double digit figures. Of course, the growth would
be subject to certain conditions feels Surana.
“The city can expect phenomenal growth if the
recently changed political scenario provides good
governance and stability.†%%
{{|*Design exclusivity and innovation is
valued here. Moreover, aesthetics and
investment value go hand-in-hand – the
consumer wants both.*|
- Subir Kumar Sen}}
{{|*“Intricate†is the one word for the
jewellery here.*|
- Pankaj Parekh}}
{{|*The consumer is partial towards
fancy shapes of diamonds –
baguettes, marquise and pear
shaped diamonds are used
extensively.*|
- Niraj Surana}}
Kolkata’s jewellery industry is one of the oldest in the country. Renowned the world over for its impeccable craftsmanship and meticulous design detail, the city’s undisputed top position as the commercial hub of the East has contributed immensely to its preeminence as an important centre for the jewellery trade
too. From manufacturing, to wholesale, retail and export – the Kolkata
jewellery industry spans it all, and is highly competitive, but truly prosperous.%%
Roli Gupta takes a bird’s eye view of this city that is fittingly called the
backbone of the Indian jewellery trade. %%
Ask the Kolkata bhadralok to describe this city in one sentence, and you have a task
that’s well nigh impossible. A picture, as the
old saying goes, is worth a thousand words; here
even a thousand pictures would fall short. And
the same is true for the jewellery trade in Kolkata,
simply because of the sheer size of the industry
here – Kolkata and its outskirts boast nearly 6000
jewellery manufacturing units employing almost
15 lakh workers. The Domzur area is amongst the
largest diamond jewellery manufacturing hubs
in India, while the Sinthee area in North Kolkata
has the plain gold jewellery manufacturing units.
Burra Bazaar is the very heart of the city’s trade
with 300 shops packed (quite literally) into a one
km area. Park Street, Theatre Road, Camac Street
and the Salt Lake area have all the plush jewellery
showrooms. %%
Amidst the myriad montages that
comprise Kolkata’s jewellery trade, one
element stands out – when it comes to
excellence in craftsmanship, this city’s
karigars rule the roost. Even as various
infl uences have come and gone, these
craftsmen have not only managed to
incorporate markedly distinctive styles
into their craft, but have actually taken the
artisanship to a different plane altogether.
What is more, the ubiquitous Bangali
babu is to be seen in almost all signifi cant
jewellery manufacturing centres in the
country and is the backbone of this industry’s
craftsmanship.
As Siddharthaa Sawansukha of the awardwinning
and well-known Sawansukha Jewellers,
explains, “The Mughals, Rajputs, and the other
cultures that have been a part of the country
since ancient times have left an indelible mark
on jewellery styles. Mughal jewellery was
renowned for its distinctive
intricate carvings, the
Rajputs their enamel
work. Kolkata always
had an abundance
of skilled labour
with an expertise in
handcrafted jewellery.
The handcrafting
technique has been
instrumental in adding a silver
lining to the jewellery souk of Kolkata. %%
History has it that Bengali karigars were taken
to Mumbai and trained to manufacture gold
and diamond jewellery.â€
Niraj Surana of Surana Gems
and Jewellery, a fourth generation
jeweller, adds, “Jewellery
manufacturing is a very old
profession in Bengal. We have skilled
craftsmen – both in plain gold jewellery
and diamond studded jewellery – who
also work all over the world and are in
great demand.†%%
Subir Kumar Sen of BC Sen Jewellers,
who have been in the city for 123 years, talks
about the jewellery of the region. “The jewellery
of Bengal has its roots deep in the Shunga period
of history,†he explains. “High quality gold sheet
work that goes into making extremely lightweight
jewellery, fi ligree and granulation, enameling,
repousse, inlay and engraving techniques of
manufacture are the specialties
here. The artisans of the state
are known for their craft and
Kolkata-made jewellery has
a very unique and distinct
feel that is unmatched by any
other.â€
{{|*The handcrafting technique has been
instrumental in adding a silver lining to the
jewellery souk of Kolkata.*|
- Siddharthaa Sawansukha}}
One wonders why the craftsmanship of the
area is so renowned. Pankaj Parekh of Alankar
Jewellers has an off-beat take on the question.
“Bengali soil is very fertile, there is a bounty of
natural resources,†he explains. “Moreover, the
natural beauty of the region is greatly inspiring,
and has been a major factor in infusing creativity
into the very lifeblood of the people here – it
seems that being artistic is in the DNA of Bengalis.
They are to India what Italians are to Europe –
from music and art to philosophy and dance
and of course, jewellery, the Bengali is extremely
creative. In fact, Bengalis will never be found
working in the diamond cutting and polishing
businesses – these being more or less
mechanical in nature. But diamond setting
and crafting jewellery – that is where the
Kolkata jewellery artisan will truly prove
his mettle. “Intricate†is the one word for
the jewellery here. Take for instance the
famous nakkashi work – the images of
fl ora and fauna and gods and goddesses
that are created using precious gemstones
and metals are unbelievably lifelike.†%%
Naturally then, with such a long history and
tradition in jewellery manufacturing, the Kolkata
consumer is a complete, unabashed jewellery
afi cionado. Typical to the cosmopolitan nature
of the city, her choices in jewellery are eclectic,
both in design and in price points. “And that is
why, we jewellers have to cater to all sections
of the society – so on one hand we may have
a single bangle weighing 85 gms, on the other
there would be entire sets comprising necklace,
earrings, bangles and ring weighing the same!â€
exclaims Parekh. %%
Expounding on consumer
demand further, Surana says,
“We see both traditional and
modern styles doing well,
and the price segment of
Rs. 50,000 to Rs. 2,00,000 in
yellow gold sells the fastest. The
consumer is partial towards fancy
shapes of diamonds – baguettes,
marquise and pear shaped diamonds
are used extensively. Big is beautiful here
– diamonds less than two cents in size are never
used, and the customer is knowledgeable and
smart – she knows her mind and looks for value
for money. Then again, due to low per capita
income only gold jewellery is sold among
the masses; diamonds are bought
only by the elite class and Rajasthani
businessmen.†%%
Sen agrees, “Consumer preferences
are varied and based on requirements.
Having said that, design exclusivity and
innovation is valued here. Moreover,
aesthetics and investment value go
hand-in -hand – she wants both.†%%
Jewellers also agree that the
customer mindset has changed
drastically over the past 15 odd years,
“There has defi nitely been a drastic
change in the way consumers perceive
jewellery,†says Sawansukha. “Trends and design
preferences vary depending upon the wearer’s
status level and social circle. Initially, jewellery
was associated only with weddings but now,
it is a piece of adornment. Consumers have
started preferring jewels with a combination of
traditional and modern concepts. Designer and
customised jewellery are gaining demand whereas
traditional jewellery is evergreen.†The customer
is increasingly inclined towards branded products
too, and there is a distinct shift in the way
business is conducted, he feels. “The unorganised
sector formed a major chunk of the jewellery
retail business in Kolkata for a long time,†adds
Sawansukha. “Earlier, people preferred to buy
jewellery from local jewellers who would come to
their house. Things are changing now and most
consumers wish to buy branded jewellery, or at
least from renowned jewellery stores.†%%
As Sen puts it, “Hallmarking, certifi cation,
value-for-money are the buzz words now.
The customer is far less impulsive in her
purchasing and very conscious of what she
buys – both in terms of the designs and the
value that she is getting from her spending.
Product awareness is very high. Design
concepts have evolved with changes in
fashion and style. Another change we have seen
is the increasing demand for platinum jewellery.†%%
Parekh sees a clear shift towards lightweight
jewellery. “The working woman opts for daily
wear jewellery in modern styles, something
that she can wear easily. Of late, she is more
knowledgeable and is not shy of discussing the
4Cs with her jeweller. Diamond jewellery has
become very fashionable in the last 10
years. Also branded jewellery is
becoming very popular now,
with the average consumer
realising the safety and the
intrinsic value in purchasing
a piece that comes with a
guarantee and certifi cation.†%%
The festive and wedding
seasons are very important
here, as they are for jewellers
across the country. “There is some
serious high-budget spending during
the festive season and the winter
season here,†says Surana with
satisfaction. However, for Kolkata,
the Durga Mahotsav is a festival even
bigger than Diwali, and that’s when
the real spending occurs, feels Sen.
“There is the Bengali New Year in
April, followed by Akshaya Tritiya,
and in August we start preparing
for the Durga Puja crowd, followed
by the usual Dhanteras and Diwali
sales, then in November the wedding
season commences and continues
till February.†Quite a busy schedule
that, and one which augurs well for
the jewellery trade in the city. %%
A calendar that’s blissfully chock-ablock
with festivals and weddings also indicates a
market that thrives despite rising prices of
materials. “Consumers now expect a
high return on jewellery, and we are
actually witnessing a buying
spree since the prices have
risenâ€, explains Sen. %%
Inflation, however, is
affecting the jewellery
business in the city
feels Sawansukha, while
Surana has observed
that consumers spending
within a fixed budget have
been affected – they get less
grammage for their buck now.
Parekh sums it up succinctly,
“No one wants to miss out
on the potential that lies in
investing in jewellery these days.
We have also seen bullion sales
skyrocket. The typical Kolkata denizen’s logic is this
– buying gold at any price is profitable, because
gold prices always increase, never decrease.
Moreover, he will never sell jewellery. Therefore,
from the investment point of view, price rise is
always a positive occurrence.†%%
No wonder then that jewellers are looking at a
good, sustained growth pattern for the city in the
next few years. Sen predicts a 15 per cent increase
and Sawansukha pegs growth at very optimistic
double digit figures. Of course, the growth would
be subject to certain conditions feels Surana.
“The city can expect phenomenal growth if the
recently changed political scenario provides good
governance and stability.†%%
{{|*Design exclusivity and innovation is
valued here. Moreover, aesthetics and
investment value go hand-in-hand – the
consumer wants both.*|
- Subir Kumar Sen}}
{{|*“Intricate†is the one word for the
jewellery here.*|
- Pankaj Parekh}}
{{|*The consumer is partial towards
fancy shapes of diamonds –
baguettes, marquise and pear
shaped diamonds are used
extensively.*|
- Niraj Surana}}
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