Jewellery buying in India has mostly been occasion centric. Women are seldom seen wearing heavy pieces of jewellery at work place. With more women being employed and having more disposable incomes, they are increasingly looking at light-weight options to wear every day. The little nest built for buying jewellery is splurged on buying multiple, smaller and lighter pieces as opposed to one large piece during occasions like Akshaya Tritiya. With gold prices soaring, light weight jewellery in 18K gold seems more affordable. On the other hand, for weddings and such other occasions were gifting comes into play, there is a growing market for jewellery that looks big, but is not heavy in weight. As the demand for such jewellery is on an uptick, manufacturers are pushing the envelope and are coming out with light-weight collections even in antique and jadau. Rajkot today is a bastion for light-weight jewellery, wherein a  handful of players use powerful technology to create light-weight magic. They travel the world, especially to places like Italy, Turkey and Germany to not just buy the latest machinery but also find out about trends in light-weight jewellery.

18K for the Win

Buying capacity of consumers who walk into showrooms has drastically come down. Retailers hence place orders for light-weight jewellery in 18k gold. “Light-weight jewellery in 18k gold is more affordable. Today the price of 18k gold per gram is Rs 3200-3300. So, retailers add making charges to this and sell the same for around Rs.3700-3800. And when it comes to designs, they want light weight chains with pendants and necklaces with cz stones,” says Vikram Jain of Kanakratna Exim. Kanakratna has been following the footsteps of Italy and Turkey when it comes to manufacturing jewellery because their technology is far superior. Their lightweight pieces whether in rhodium or colour stones are inspired by Italian and Turkish manufacturing prowess. “Italians have mastered in mixing gold with different colours. Earlier rose gold was popular, now chocolate coloured gold is also becoming popular and all the big manufacturers in India are following this trend. After the increase in gold price, hollow jewellery is also fast moving. A necklace set looks like it is 40 g, but in reality it is only between 15-20 g. In the coming IIJS show in August there would also be 18k lightweight antique jewellery and there will at least be a difference of Rs 300 per gram compared to jewellery of higher purity,” he adds. 

“Hollow sets cannot be repaired at all. Our current jewellery sets can be repaired; even if there is 70 per cent damage, our sets can be repaired.” They manufacture jadau jewellery in light-weight as well. “It is completely machine made, however, the finishing is done by our in house artisans by hand,” he adds.

Italians have mastered in mixing gold with different colours. Earlier rose gold was popular, now chocolate coloured gold is also becoming popular and all the big manufacturers in India are following this trend. After the increase in gold price, hollow jewellery is also fast moving. A necklace set looks like it is 40g, but in reality it is only between 15-20g Vikram Jain, Kanakratna Exim Pvt. Ltd.

The Indo-Italian Route

India has always looked up to Italy when it comes to manufacturing jewellery. Overtime, adapting Italian manufacturing techniques has given birth to Indo-Italian fusion jewellery. Lotus Jewellery Creation, again Rajkot based, is known for its innovative Indo-Italian jewellery using laser and CNC technology. “We rely heavily on paper casting technology. Earlier, pieces would weight 100 grams but the same can be finished today with just 40g,” says Vineet Vasa of Lotus Jewellery Creation.

However, machine only does so much, creativity goes a long way in making jewellery with so much detail. The sheer options that Indo-Italian jewellery presents that too in affordable price points has made this category extremely popular amidst retailers. “We go to Italy 3-4 times in a year, for training and upgrading our machinery. Sometimes, we bring their engineers to upgrade our machines. Earlier, traditional jewellery had good demand. Today net jewellery is in demand. Fusion jewellery is in demand, wherein we combine other substances with gold. The price is lower because of the use of other material. The jewellery looks bigger as well. In western pieces, we also use ceramic and steel,” quips Vasa. Lotus has around 500 workers in its manufacturing unit and produces approximately 12 kilograms of jewellery every day. Lotus has produced collections infusing laser filigree with ultra light weight hollow CNC diamond setting beads, 3D work, feather light hollow bangles and mangalsutra with cnc diamond faceting on very intricate laser filigree and reversible filigree as well as meenakari jewellery.

We go to Italy 3-4 times in a year, for training and upgrading our machinery. Sometimes, we bring their engineers to upgrade our machines. Fusion jewellery is in demand, wherein we combine other substances with gold. The price is lower because of the use of other material. The jewellery looks bigger as well. In western pieces, we also use ceramic and steel Vineet Vasa,  Lotus Jewellery Creation

Affordable all the way

Tanvi Gold Cast produces around 7-8 kilograms of jewellery per day in its state- of-the-art manufacturing unit in Rajkot. Price is the main focus for this manufacturer. As gold price is skyrocketing, Tanvi focuses on producing light-weight jewellery in unmatchable prices. “We manufacture casting jewellery in 7-8g that actually looks like 15g. We are also into bridal light-weight jewellery,” says Bipin Viradiya of Tanvi. The company uses laser and plate casting technology to manufacture its pieces and manufacturers jewellery ranging from 2 to 50g and the slightly traditional pieces range from 30 to 100g. “We have reduced our jewellery thickness. We import bob machines and polishing machines from Italy. The new polishing machine reduces wastage as well,” adds Bipin. From antique collections to enamel jewellery and pieces in Swarovski stones, Tanvi manufactures trendy pieces with price consciousness in mind.

Playing with Technology

Elvee Jewels manufactures delicate pieces in diamonds in yellow and rose gold using superior technology. “No one wants to wear small-looking jewellery. They want to wear big pieces but in light weight and the challenge lies here. We try to create light-weight pieces keeping the same strength, look, feel and size in mind,” quips Kalpesh Vaghasiya of Elvee Jewels. For Elvee, everything starts with a good design. “We use AutoCAD software to design pieces. Some pieces are made directly in casting (using CNC machines). We alter alloy content to bring in the strength. We reduce alloy gauge, yet retain strength and size in jewellery,” he adds. China and Italy have been using advanced technology for many years now and today, India too has adapted the skill set and the technological know-how because of rise in gold prices. “Technological upgradation is a continuous process. We need to modify each and every process to make light-weight jewellery. Our jewellery is crafted in 14k and 18k gold. Our designs are modern ranging from 5g to 15g (for more traditional pieces). We import machinery from Italy and U.S. Italian machinery produces quality products. At present, manufacturers are using laser sintering machines where in gold powder is used to manufacture jewellery,” adds Kalpesh.

Technological upgradation is a continuous process. We need to modify each and every process to make light-weight jewellery. Our jewellery is crafted in 14k and 18k gold. We import machinery from Italy and U.S. Italian machinery produces quality products. At present, manufacturers are using laser sintering machines where in gold powder is used to manufacture jewellery  Kalpesh Vaghasiya, Elvee Jewels