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How The Pandemic is Changing The Language of Design-Design Decree

From using less gold to focusing on pieces that are rich in tradition and craftsmanship, to embracing old-world techniques and exploring Nature as an inspiration even more, here’s how India’s top manufacturers are getting ready for the world ahead

Post By : IJ News Service On 01 August 2020 1:29 PM
Raniwala 1881

The gems and jewellery industry has been the closest to Nature, whether it was mining for her treasures or polishing it to match the natural shine of the sun and stars. Nature has always bestowed its best on artisans of this industry.

Jewellery manufacturers from every part of the country and all over the world work in sync with the glories of Nature, capturing it in their designs.

The pandemic-induced economic decline has set a New Normal for one and all, so also when it comes to design elements. There’s a fine balancing act, which manufacturers need to strike, especially since gold prices are at an alltime high; demand is low and there’s less scope for experimentation. They have to bring in new designs, which are affordable, cost efficient and irresistible at the same time.

Jewellery that is high on trust & emotional quotient

Says Abhishek Raniwala of Raniwala 1881, “People are inclined to buy jewellery from the brand they trust.They are looking for security of their investment; if it can give them good returns on investment. Emotional quotient will play an important role in buying of jewellery in the post pandemic world.” Gold prices are reaching a new high. Most G & J retailers are trying to assure customers that they are getting the best buy at the current prices. They are getting value for money. Customers want to buy believable jewellery. They may not choose to do a casual purchase. Adds Abhishek, “We are trying to bring in better aesthetics and we have improved our customer relations and provide best prices and best service to our customers.”

Weddings are going to happen, irrespective of the pandemic. So we will not make dramatic changes in the time-tested bridal jewellery designs. In a post pandemic world, these typical pieces of jewellery will be of great value Amish Kothari, Rosentiques

14k gold for the win

Interestingly, as gold prices increase, demand for gold has not reduced, unlike the trend that is generally observed for other goods. “We manufacture bridal jewellery and polki in particular. Weddings are going to happen, irrespective of the pandemic. So we will not make dramatic changes in the timetested bridal jewellery designs. In a post pandemic world, these typical pieces of jewellery will be of great value ,” informs Amish Kothari, Rosentiques. Most manufacturers are striving to make more of 14 carat jewellery – and are using more studded gems and diamonds, primarily because gold has become expensive, so as to offer fresh designs to retailers and customers at large.

People are inclined to buy jewellery from the brand they trust.They are looking for security of their investment. Emotional quotient will play an important role in buying of jewellery in the post pandemic world Abhishek Raniwala, Raniwala 1881

 

Value for money
The mass buyers will be looking for value for money when it comes to jewellery buying. “Value is going to be the deciding factor. With our jewellery, we give good value on their investment. We are telling our designers to bring in that kind of value in their work. We are striving to give customers the best value in terms of jewellery for the price they are paying,” explains Abhishek Raniwala.

 

Heirloom & tradition are constants
Heirloom pieces are going to be in great demand – some jewellery aficionados may get these pieces redesigned and blend them with contemporary fashionable pieces so as to complement their attire. But surely, these pieces are going to be moving more often now.“We usually make antique jewellery. Our product is heavy and our client segment includes niche buyers, who aren’t much bothered about price,” explains Mehul Solanki, Solanki Jewellers. He explains antique pieces with a bit of fusion will be popular going forward.

We need to refrain from designs which will involve more gold per piece. For many customers, the disposable income has come down, so while designing one has to make jewellery which is affordable, light in terms of gold weight, attractive, trendy yet unique Shashwat Shah, Umrao Jewels

 

 

 Anand Shah Jewels

Light & affordable
The changes in design will be dependent on change in gold price. “We need to refrain from designs which will involve more gold per piece. For many customers, the disposable income has come down, so while designing one has to make jewellery which is affordable, light in terms of gold weight, attractive, trendy yet unique,” explains Shashwat Shah, Umrao Jewels. The customers should feel like buying jewellery despite the crisis. While Toshiba Jariwala explains that they are working on special orders, bridal jewellery along with light weight pieces – there are no stock orders from retailers. “We are getting only special orders and gifting jewellery is in demand. Retailers are telling us what their client needs and we are designing accordingly,” she adds. After the pandemic, the jewellery purchasing process won’t be as extravagant as before. Hence jewellery designs will have to be modified from being bold & beautiful to being unique & affordable in order to meet the consumer demands. “Currently there is a huge demand for light weight jewellery and this will persist in the coming years as well. Traditional jewellery can never go out of style especially for the special occasions. Therefore we contemplate on creating scaled down jewellery with traditional approach ,” says Anand Shah of Anand Shal Jewels.

Currently there is a huge demand for light weight jewellery and this will persist in the coming years as well. Traditional jewellery can never go out of style especially for the special occasions. Therefore we contemplate on creating scaled down jewellery with traditional approach Anand Shah, Anand Shah Jewels

Nature, nature & nature
Nature has always been the eternalmuse for different artists, and so also for talented jewellery designers and artisans. “Nature holds immense importance, ancient jewellery too holds a lot of value in terms of inspiration. We are striving to revive ancient design. For bridal jewellery, necklaces will be in demand. In diamonds we are concentrating more on earrings. We prefer ruby and emeralds for our jewellery,” explains Amish Kothari. Flowers, birds, animals, the sun, moon, stars, leaves, et al have caught on to the fancy of one and all. Says Shashwat, “Almost 90 per cent of our pieces, will have peacocks, parrots, lotus, etc. our work has always been heavily inspired from Nature. We usually draw inspiration from Nature – Mother Earth. Multipurpose jewellery – transformable jewellery is surely in demand. One would want to buy more of such jewellery. It is usually cost effective. Although the demand for such jewellery is yet to pick up in India.”

want their traditional designs. It’s only the evolved and aesthetically inclined buyers who would go in for geometric, architectural or Nature-based designer pieces of jewellery Toshiba Jariwala, Zundaa

 Rosentiques

Designs with mass appeal here to stay
With the lockdown and fewer walk-in clients, all retailers want to go online, and they are asking manufacturers to render all the designs they had approved in the past. They want to showcase all available designs on their website. Informs Toshiba Jariwala, “Right now we are getting mixed orders. The masses want their traditional designs. It’s only the evolved and aesthetically inclined buyers who would go in for geometric, architectural or Nature-based designer pieces of jewellery .”

When gold prices increase, gold weight needs to be reduced by 5-10 per cent in a particular piece. Bridal jewellery enquiries are more. Necklaces and chokers are in great demand. Nature-based designs will always be preferred in India Vikas Mehta, Achal Jewels

Smart designs with less gold
“When gold prices increase, gold weight needs to be reduced by 5-10 per cent in a particular piece. Bridal jewellery enquiries are more. Necklaces and chokers are in great demand. Nature-based designs will always be preferred in India ,” adds Vikas Mehta of Achal Jewels. In the wake of Coronavirus-induced lockdown, market may sink for a while. Natural stones, like rubies, diamonds will be in demand – as buyers will want to be safe in their purchases.Most buyers are going for online shopping, as they cannot step out of their houses. Informs Vineet Vasa, Lotus Jewellery Creation, “We have launched small-scale, kids and gifts jewellery range especially for Rakshabandhan. In our new designs we have introduced Natureinspired floral designs. In our traditional jewellery also we have brought in Natureinspired designs .” Most retailers are asking for lightweight chains, earrings, etc. “We are working on three different collections – which we will launch during the next wedding season,” adds Vineet.

We have launched smallscale, kids and gifts jewellery range especially for Rakshabandhan. In our new designs we have introduced Natureinspired floral designs. In our traditional jewellery also we have brought in Nature-inspired designs Vineet Vasa, Lotus Jewellery Creation

Temple jewellery popular across India
Once the pandemic subsides, the demand for all kinds of jewellery will bounce back. The last wedding season, many jewellers lost a lot of business, this invariably means that the next wedding season will flood the market with demand. The new trends are in fusion jewellery – amalgamation of traditional and contemporary designs. Says Mehul Solanki, “Temple jewellery is in demand right now. Earlier, temple jewellery was in demand mostly in Southern India, at present we see demand for this type of jewellery from across India.”

Temple jewellery is in demand right now. Earlier, temple jewellery was in demand mostly in Southern India, at present we see demand for this type of jewellery from across India Mehul Solanki, Solanki Jewellers

 

 Umrao Jewels

Gold over diamonds
With some weddings which are happening now, families are going infor light weight jewellery. Spending on jewellery has reduced, owing to hike in gold price. Many manufacturers are focusing on light-weight, trendy jewellery as compared to heavy bridal jewellery, which used to be purchased in the past. Jewellery buyers can be classified into: wedding buyers, which comprise about 50-60 per cent; occasion-based buyers comprising about 20 per cent and about 15 per cent buyers are for gifts. The wedding buyers from 50 per cent have come down to 20 per cent. “We are getting into lightweight diamond jewellery. The current consumer mindset is that they are more interested in investing in gold as compared to diamonds. Many customers are comfortable with gold purchase. They feel gold prices will keep rising, giving them better returns on their investment,” explains Ashish Kotawala, GDK Jewels. There are many gifting enquiries. There are no social gatherings so the casual buyer is no longer there in the market.

Jewellery with colour gemstones
Many customersbuying coloured gemstones as well. In case of studded jewellery, the value of the product goes down, however, colour stones add more to the design whereas plain diamond jewellery doesn’t look very attractive after some years. “Earrings and large tops and bracelets are mostly in demand. Demand for necklaces have reduced,” informs Kotawala

The current consumer mindset is that they are more interested in investing in gold as compared to diamonds. Many customers are comfortable with gold purchase. They feel gold prices will keep rising, giving them better returns on their investment Ashish Kotawala, GDK Jewels

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