It was during New York’s lockdown in late spring, walking around the West Village, that Schiaparelli’s artistic director, Daniel Roseberry, began to think about the people living in the beautiful brownstone buildings. What would they take with them if, in fact, it was the end of the world?
“If you have amazing art, you probably take your art; if you have amazing jewels, you take your jewels and, other than those two things, you probably just leave town with the clothes on your back,” Mr. Roseberry said.
It was those clothes he thought of when designing his latest collection, for spring 2021. “And then make the statement,” he said, “let the investment, the direction and the heritage of the brand come through the jewels, the bijoux.”
Jewelry is a strong touchstone for designers this year. Despite a seismic shift in the way we live and look during these past few months, both the fall 2020 and spring 2021 collections — shown at the beginning of the year, and then last month — had jewelry at the center of many designs, integrating it into garments rather than using it as a mere accessory.
“Jewelry,” Mr. Roseberry said of Schiaparelli, “is the new embroidery for us. That’s the exact phrase that I’ve been talking about with my team. For me, it just felt so much more modern to start to imbue the codes into jewels as opposed to trying to find our way with embroidery.”