Anushka always had a penchant for fine arts and had a creative bent of mind. “My parents directed me to opt for a career in jewellery designing. As I started designing jewellery, I realized that the challenges, client’s appreciation for my designs and the complete designing process and all of this makes me more passionate towards my work,”says Anushka. As an artist, she was offered a scholarship from Winchester School of Art London for her sketches and paintings. She has a Diploma in Fine Arts from National institute of Fine Arts, Delhi, degrees in gemology, jewellery designing and CAD from IIGJ-D New Delhi and has completed a jewellery-manufacturing course from Central Saint Martin, University of London Arts.

Initially, Anushka wasn’t too keen on pursuing jewellery design as a career. It was her parents dream that she uses her creativity to create jewellery. “They made me realize that a career in the field of jewellery designing would be appropriate for me. I joined a jewellery brand company as an intern and realized that I wanted to make my career in jewellery designing and hence left the organization to start on my own.”

The name Vararoha is itself unique, much like her jewellery. What does it mean? Derived from one of the avatars of goddess Laxmi, Vararoha means ‘ready to offer boons.’ Steeped in culture, the jewels offered by the brand signify eternal beauty, power, inspiration and uniqueness for each individual. The jewellery house specializes in bespoke jewellery making great efforts to personalize it to the highest level of rarity and craftsmanship. Designed for women and men, jewels in Vararoha’s repertoire are one of a kind and inspired from different aspects of nature. The collection draws inspiration from paintings by the designer, different cultures and technology. The brand offers precious jewellery and prides itself on bringing to the fore beautiful gemstones such as spinels, quartzes, opals and tourmalines that are used extensively in international couture jewellery but somehow have yet to find their place in in India. Unusual gem varieties such as rutilated quartz and opals feature prominently in Vararoha’s collections apart from diamonds.

Anushka’s latest collection ‘Aranya’ inspired from the existence of Life in a Forest. Forest is symbolic of Life that is mysterious and ambiguous yet at the same time it gives a feeling of spirituality and depth. Hence, the intricate and exquisite designer jewellery is inspired from the existence of butterfly, spider, lion and swan. The collection depicts various animals and insects that represent life in a forest. One of the designs of the earrings with diamonds is inspired from the face of the lion, as he is a symbol of authority and command over subconscious thought. Another piece has butterfly engraved on the earring with diamond and dendritic agate stone. Butterflies are viewed as representing endurance, change, hope, and life. Another beautifully carved piece has been taken from the look of a spider with diamond and Mat finished gold ball. The spider is an ancient symbol of mystery, power and growth hence serves as a reminder that our choices construct our lives.

She might have created many pieces of jewellery, but she has her favourite one of course. “The best one is a bridal necklace made with gold and diamonds. The beauty of the necklace are the diamonds which sparkle in the dark due to its colour, clarity and cut and it took a year to make this piece,” she says. For Anushka, inspiration can come from anywhere from teacups to the yesteryear. “I get inspiration from everywhere like from the grill design, knots, lotus leaves or dry leaves, eye lashes, teacups, clothes etc. When I study about the era in history or culture, I get inspiration from the symbols of that era and I start working on my designs.”

We appreciate the beauty of piece of jewellery but we seldom realize the depth of work that goes into making each piece of jewellery. Speaking of the creative process, Anushka says, “Designing jewellery involves a lot of effort as I have to create something different every time, and I don’t repeat my products as it is one of a kind bespoke jewellery brand. My designs are inspired from nature and whenever I get an inspiration I start working on it and it takes me hours to draw a design, from that single design, I make hundreds of design, and then shortlist a single design out of those designs which I feel is the best. I give at least five design options to my client, once approved the work on the making of the piece begins. I get my clients involved in the process from manufacturing till the time the piece is ready. It helps build a good relationship and trust with the client.”

Anushka loves working with diamond and gold because of their versatility. “Diamond is a stone which can be placed with any other gemstone and it will enhance the look of the jewellery and gold being a soft and delicate metal, if we add alloys into it, the jewellery is easily made. The beauty of the metal is such that at times I don’t need to add anything to it.” She loves wearing elegant jewellery inspired from the Victorian Era herself. According to her, a lot of her creations have a heavy Victorian influence.

While Anushka believes it is important for a designer to be abreast with trends, she feels that trends shouldn’t come in the way of one’s creativity, “People will like your jewellery if it is different, we should know the trends but we can try to create our own trends too.” We asked her what are some nonnegotiable traits a jewellery designer must have and pat comes the answer, “Creativity and innovation are the utmost important traits to be a jewellery designer. Simultaneously, understanding your client’s taste and creating a product as per requirements is essential. One must have the skill to search and understand the market to reach to the top. Also,
confidence in your product is pivotal.”

Lightweight jewellery and coloured diamonds are greatly in demand nowadays according to Anushka. “Today the consumers know what they are buying. They are knowledgeable about the purity of gold, about the cut, clarity, carat and color of diamond. Unique and lightweight jewellery is in. Women want designer jewellery, which is crafted in simplicity. Gemstone jewellery like semi precious - aquamarine, coral and quartz are also in demand.” Dubai will be witnessing Vararoha’s collections next month and Anushka is also looking forward to launch her brand in the European market soon. Before signing off, Anushka talks about London being her source of inspiration. “I learnt jewellery manufacturing in London. I have travelled to London many times, thus it is very close to my heart. It’s a beautiful place and my inspiration lies in British architecture.”