Do integrities subsist in the jewellery industry? Certainly jewellers can use conflict free diamonds, clean gold, and employ workers of legal age, asserting that now they’re perfectly clean and dutiful to ethical practices. However, what about deceitful practices including art plagiarism and design infringement? The most precise term for this illegal appropriation in the jewellery industry is inspired by… %% The trouble arises from the fact that most jewellerydesigns are based on a few traditional styles. Everything else is an evolution of one of these styles. These days, designinga fresh collection infrequently means creation. More often it is modification. Therefore, for jewellery producers to claim that they created some completely radical new design has lost its excitement and trust factor. %% {{Priyanka Desai}} spoke to eight leading jewellery designers of India and two renowned gemological institutes to get to the bottom of this problem. Each one of them agreed that design infringement and plagiarism is extremely rampant in our industry and that design protection laws in India are too weak to control it. %%

{{Omnipresent Malpractice}}%% {{Is design infringement, a rampant practice in Indian jewellery trade? }} %% “Design Infringement is something that the industry has not taken seriously in the Indian jewellery segment. It is deep rooted and despite measures like copyright, it is an ongoing shameless practice. To keep a tab on this is becoming very difficult as we are in an age where uploading your latest designs online becomes important, to connect and reach out to widen your audience. This bridge is the most common source of the cheap practice,” opines SumitSawhney, Jewellery Designer and Director, Apala. %% “I think design infringement is not that rampant in Indian jewellery segment but there is still quite a large vacuum in terms of awareness and know how. I believe that the people and especially the industry on the whole needs to step a foot forward in terms of creativity, innovation, awareness and technicalities,” articulates SunitaShekhawat, Jewellery Designer and Director, Midas. %% “Yes, I completely agree that design infringement is very rampant in our trade. With cutthroat competition in the jewellery market, everyone is doing all it takes to get more and more business. Even if that requires murdering the ethics of originality, people are not hesitant. It has become more commercial especially when everyone wants to get a ‘bigger slice of the cake’,” shares Chhaya Jain, Jewel Architect, Zahav Jewels. %% “Yes, it is truly sad but one would have to agree that design infringement is rampant in Indian jewellery segment today. The laws stated towards design rights are still not strong enough in our industry,” states SangeetaBoochra, (a brand of Silver Centrre). %% “Yes, unfortunately that is the truth. It takes great effort to come up with an innovative concept, but few seconds to copy it. With more accessibility to designs via magazines, social media, etc., designs end up being copied and knock down versions are available very quickly,” expresses Mira Gulati, Founder and Principal Designer, Mirari. %% “Yes. Definitely, design infringement is rampant in this segment. As the companies with huge marketing budgets publicise the products and the actual creator if not able to do that is deprived of the credits of being the creator.” Varuna D Jani, Jewellery Designer and Adornologist, gives a newer viewpoint. %% “Yes, design infringement is present. The extent of its presence depends on designer ethics and values. Our designs are completely unique and beautiful.Wehave rarity in quality and gems. However, technically if the design is very full proof, it is difficult to copy the intricate detailing,” explains Amar Ghanasingh, Founder and Director, Amar Ghanasingh Eternal Jewellery. %% “Yes, it is quite rampant in India. That is why; I am always concerned while promoting images of my designs. There have been many instances where people have copied my designs. For a designer, there is nothing more important than her designs. I work from scratch to design a piece and a lot of imagination; efforts and time are involved in the process. It is hurtful to witness that my designs are being copied,” says Monica Kapur, Jewellery Designer and Director, Aum Monica Kapur. %%

{{The Blame Game}}%% {{On who to place the blame— retailers, manufacturers and aspiring designers or even established designers? }} %% Sawhney explains, “Before playing the blame game it is important to understand the vitality of training. A good design teacher’s job to train its students place utmost importance on original creation, understanding the concept of being inspired only at a reference level and creating from their head and heart. So it is the teacher’s job to take control and guide the students of not falling in this trap, as this would hinder their growth in long term.Some aspiring designers feel that by copying the same design may give results but at times do not understand the viability of commercial selling. Plagiarism is less prevalent amongst the established designers. But, some established designers misuse the royal classic jewellery designs by calling it their own creation. Plagiarism is highest the manufacturers’ level. They feel it is their right to have control on any latest catalogue and manufacture it. Sometimes the manufacturer mass-produces a copied design even before the originator has launched it in the market. This is more common in fashion jewellery. Talking about retailers, sometimes customers demand to copy a design they see somewhere else to get a better price.Some retailers, who also manufacture, follow this route. This has been followed for ages. But, there are better retailers who are cashing on being unique and not following this plagiarism path.” %% Shekhawat does not want to pin point but states, “It is hard to put the blame on just one segment. Plagiarism has unfortunately become a vital part of our entire industry. I believe all of us really need to be ethically correct and not degrade someone else’s creativity by copying it.” %% Jain concurs with Sawhney and states, “It is mainly the retailers and manufacturers who lack the understanding and importance of design sensibilities. A true artist/designer would draw inspiration but not imitate another piece of art or design. Another fact is, India being a vast and diverse market in terms of the design concepts and styles, everyone wants to stock a bit of everything. The reason is that our market is a mix bag of numerous religions, castes and cultures.” %% Boochra agrees that some established designers are involved in plagiarism, too. She replies, “In my opinion, aspiring designers and jewellery manufacturers are involved in plagiarism. Infact, even some established designers’ copy or steal an idea and then with their marketing tool, promote the product. If the idea or design is stolen from a lesser established designer then their (well-established designers’) unethical practices are blanketed.” %% Gulati too, preferred not to pin point at the various segments of our trade. She said, “There is no specific answer to that. However, it is an evil that exists.” %% Jani lays emphasis on the creator than the copycat in her answer. She states, “A fashion trend is invented by one but followed by all. Similar is the case with jewellery designs and trends. The only difference is that in fashion the creator gets the visibility. This is not always the case in jewellery as it is more of a commodity. Copying a design is like flattering the jewellery designer but in the whole process the creator should be recognised and get due credits for his/ her designs.” %% Ghanasingh is does not have a definitive opinion about this question but states, “I am not too sure about on whom to place the blame but in my opinion established designers are not involved in plagiarism.” %% Kapur too felt that generalising a segment would be wrong. She opined, “Well, we can't generalise the segment that is involved in plagiarism. Anyone in the field with a lack of knowledge and lack of creativity, can be involved in it.” %%

{{Once bitten, Twice Shy}}%% {{Please share your personal experience in terms of plagiarism. }} %% “I saw a website selling a cheap manufactured copy of my design.It had the basic form but lacked the aesthetic balance and proportions. I wrote to the website administrator to remove the product on immediate basis as this was a copy of my creation. The vendor of the website was D listed for all future contracts and they had to shell out a huge amount to compensate. From there on I have started copywriting my designs. They have also learnt that by blindly copying the designs one cannot get the same product and the niche,” shares Sawhney. %% Shekhawat preferred not to disclose her experiences and omitted this question. %% Jain has been bitten by plagiarism more than once and has become more cautious. She states, “We have experienced a few of our designs getting replicated by big names in the industry. Sadly there is not much that you can do about it. We definitely have become more cautious in sharing our jewellery images on social media websites after those incidents. Also, we believe that 'imitation is the highest form of flattery’. So if we are getting imitated, we definitely are doing better than the others. The best possible full-proof measure was to ensure that 90 per cent of our production is done in house. Our factory set up helped us to keep great control and check on issues like product quality, plagiarism, etc.” %% In this age of technology and media, let us not forget that copycats can be anywhere and not just in India. Boochra has had such an experience and tells us, “We once received a catalog from U.S. that entirely consisted of photocopied pages from my own catalog! Mostly we copyright our designs but there is nothing I could do about an U.S. copycat, which had no physical presence in India. The sad part is that while litigation, or the threat of litigation can be useful in certain extremely blatant situations, jewellery copyrights are notoriously difficult to enforce. Our response to it is to try and evolve and learn from our experiences. We now have copyrights over all of our special designs.We keep coming up with new designs more often than expected to avoid being copied too easily.” %% Gulati has seen some of her designs copied blatantly and displayed with pride in a few retail stores. She expresses, “We have had various instances where our exact signature designs have been available in other stores, with almost no changes.Initially, we were not able to do anything about it but we are looking at patenting a few of our designs to stop this practice.” %% Having your designs copied is already hurtful but having your designs sold to various manufacturers by your own trusted employee? This issue is far worse than just infringement and plagiarism. Jani has been at the receiving end of such a shameful theft. She exclaims, “I did have an experience whereby one of my employees had sold my designs to various manufacturing houses and the case is under litigation. The designs that were sold belonged to a very niche and innovative collection. I created the modular jewellery, which is a category of multipurpose jewellery, versatile and timeless and can be worn to fit various occasions in different avatars.” %% Ghanasingh like Shekhawat chose not to disclose his experiences regarding plagiarism. %% Kapur had a very recent experience, which was distasteful. “Just last week, I posted a design on Facebook as part of my promotion for Akshay Tritya. The very next day, a jeweller posted the same image as his collection. I was shocked to see that not only he had used my design on his Facebook account, but also claimed it to be his own design. Unfortunately, in India laws are not strict enough to take actions against such people and ultimately you can't take any action and have to live with it,” she says with a sigh. %%

{{All Rights Reserved}}%% {{Are copyright and patenting measures helpful in jewellery design segment? }} %% “In my early years, I was always like an eagle watching over carefully so that no one could copy my design. But it is extremely difficult to control this. With experience andtime I came out of this shell and I got assured that if some one has copied my design then it means I am more superior or talented. I say to myself, ‘He can copy one or two of my designs not my creativity and expertise’. I ensure that the jewels are marketed well and are sold, then discontinued. So there is always something new and constant innovation is taking place.Patenting has been a helpful tool at a level that atleast it creates some fear of a legal action for the other person entering this space,”explains Sawhney. %% Shekhawat replies, “I do ensure that my designs are patented as all the pieces are crafted with lot of passion and individuality. But, in India the law in terms of design protection should be more secure.” %% Jain has not yet tried the legal measures and explains the reason. She says, “We haven't yet tried any of these. It could curb plagiarism to a very minimal extend, but with the rapidly evolving and easily available technologies, copying is just a click away.” %% Boochra practices the legal measures but puts forth a larger picture. “We copyright most of our fast selling designs but they aren’t really helpful because if a design is copied outside India and the company which has copied it does not have a physical presence in India, it becomes quite difficult to protect the rights. Also in terms of financials, it is expensive to go after every designer or company that is copying your design.” Boochra exclaims. %% Gulati said, “As mentioned earlier, we are looking at enforcing the legal measures. I would not be able to comment on the usefulness of them without having an experience.” %% Jani endorses the legal measures and opines, “Yes, I have realised that although patenting a design is a tedious process, it is very beneficial in the long run. In the short run one may not see immediate effects and results. In the long run it allows in creating and building the brand image one desires. It gives value to the brand and the iconic design also becomes the signature of the brand and top of the mind recall amongst the audience.” %% Ghanasingh says that though designs are patented, plagiarism still takes place and the creator too takes it as a part of the business. He clarifies, “Yes, we ensure that our designs are copyrighted or patented and are careful while letting out a particular design in the market. However in our line of business, the designs are often copied. How many people would you get a hold of while releasing a particular design? It is next to impossible to completely eliminate plagiarism in our industry. I believe that if one is successful, he will be copied.” %% Kapur shares the same view. She explains, “Although, not all my designs are copyright protected, I think it is a good idea to get them patented. However, as we all know, in a country like India, it is very difficult to keep a watch on plagiarism.” %%

{{Aping The West}}%% {{What are your thoughts about ‘inspiration’ from the West and its place in India? }} %% “I feel inspiration from western countries and their designers should be used in the ability to create precision and finesse in manufacturing in India. India has a lot of design talent and the best artisans. We can proudly show our regional craft to the world.The combination of handwork and western machine manufacturing techniques should be adapted to create the perfect masterpieces.Also, what I appreciate about the western jewellery is the importance of following a theme to the jewellery, which is a mirror to your originality,” elucidates Sawhney. %% Shekhawat states there is good place for western designs in Indian markets. She clarifies, “As India is rising as a more receptive country, Indians are quite open to new and fresh ideas. The western designs can be rightly marketed here, fetching a good position for themselves and the brand.” %% Jain is a believer in inspiration from the west but believes more in their finishing and detailing. She says, “An inspiration is very important for any artist. One needs to be driven and motivated by another artist, art, place, culture, nature, etc. to create a unique piece of art. There is a lot that one can take inspirations from when it comes to western designers, as they are at par with the use of latest techniques in their jewellery. We could try and achieve similar excellence in detailing and finishing too in our jewellery pieces. A western theme, idea or a concept with a right twist of Indian touch can create an original, extraordinary piece of art.” %% Boochra explains that it is not the designs that are the most inspiring about the west but it is their pride in their heritage, history and culture that is motivational. She further explicates, “The world’s best designers and design houses are from western countries. Some designers Like Coco Chanel, Donatella Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, Pierre Cardin, etc., are the people who gave birth to the term ‘designer’. What inspires me most is the way they present their culture and heritage to the world in forms of design. They come with such strong roots in terms of design and style that they are the trendsetters for every season. Their every design is a reflection of their own personality and background, be it in the form of design: in forms of prints, jewellery or clothes. They have preserved their heritage unlike any other and that is the reason why the world is bowled over by the beauty of their designs, museums, architecture and heritage. India is rich in culture and we should respect our heritage. We should get inspired by these Western designers and try to preserve the heritage and maintain our culture and do our bit for bringing Indian designs on the World map.” %% Gulati is a believer in fusion of the west and east. “Everyone derives inspiration, some from nature, history, etc. It is natural to be influenced by international trends and brands. India has an extremely rich design history and the elements, colours, textures and motifs that we are privilege to inherit must be reflected in our jewellery. We at Mirari, attempt to create jewellery that is an amalgamation of the east and the west,” she states. %%

Jani concurs with Gulati but also has a new point of view amalgamating vintage with contemporary to create ‘vintemporary jewellery’. She articulates, “In my opinion, western designs are very classic and elegant. We (Varuna D Jani Fine Jewellery) have moulded the classic with style leading to classic redefined jewellery. Indian heritage blended with modular designs have bought a new category of vintemporary jewellery— vintage plus contemporary. A classic never goes out of fashion as such type of jewellery is timeless, versatile and can be teamed with casual as well as traditional attires. When one invests in jewellery above INR 5 lacs it is always advisable to go for something classic with a contemporary twist.” %% Ghanasingh is inspired by seemingly nonchalant but extremely important feature of the western jewellery trade— the packaging. The packaging is something that sets the mood and makes the first impression about a designer but most Indian designers and retailers have yet not fully understood its importance. But, Ghanasingh is highly inspired by it. “I must say that I am very inspired by the packaging which is used by western countries. I have always said that in jewellery the packaging will matter. In terms of jewellery design, some designs specific to western countries are not at all applicable to India.” %% Kapur rightly puts it, “India has always been known as a country of artisans and craftsmen. Therefore just like western countries, India too possesses talented designers. As far as ‘inspiration’ is concerned, one can learn from different themes and methods used by western designers. But a design should never be copied in the name of ‘inspiration’.” %% {{Teaching Originality}}%% After having the views and opinions of eight of the leading jewellery designers of our country, we thought it to be right to have views of the leading institutes in India, who are renowned for their jewellery design courses. Below are the views of these institutes: %% Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery (IIGJ) (supported by GJEPC) %% Col. S K Arora, Head, IIGJ (Mumbai) says, “Infringement occurs when there is a likelihood of confusion with regard to similar shape, configuration and surface pattern or appearance of any articles having similar nature and purpose. With so many design products being churned out of the industry by various creative designers it is likely to have similar patterns but yet each product of this significant industry represents a unique combination with aspect of creativity.” %% He adds, “At the Institute, the students are taught to design creatively considering the changing markets trends. They are allowed to refer books from the library to understand the markets better. Referring to design portfolios from the industry are also a part of their training but in spite of this exposure the students have to strictly adhere to self creativity. As each design of the students is their own creativity they also have to protect it. Hence, guest lecturers as well as small introduction to patenting and trademarks is given to the students during their learning period.” %%

International Gemological Institute (IGI) %% Tehmasp Printer, MD, IGI India opines, “There is no doubt that design infringement and plagiarism is wide-spread in our industry. It is difficult to know who is copying whom in our field. The reason being,the term, ‘design’ is very loose in our country. If one copies Chopard or Cartier, you will know that it has been copied as they have a classic style and a design that resonates their identity. In India, it is not about the original design but it is about a trend. If a certain trend is booming in the market, then most jewellers start producing pieces like that. In my opinion, protecting your design from being copied is not possible. The only way to combat this is to mass-produce. If a designer feels that a certain design is working well with his buyers, then mass produce and sell it off, before someone else does.” %% Talking about IGI stand on this issue, he states, “At our institute, we teach designing skills. We help them create their own personal style and nurture it. We believe in helping them find a definitive style of their own, irrespective of trends and fashion statements. It is difficult for a person to identify his style but once he finds it, he will stick to it and nurture it. We do not have any classes on copyrights and patenting. In my opinion, it is not feasible in design field or any creative field. Also, the worry about being copied curtails creativity and is not worth it. I tell our students that imitating is the best for of flattery and if they are being copied then that means, they are talented and creative. I advice them to show off their creativity, carve a niche for themselves and not worry about being copied.” %% With such varied views and advices, we hope that the designers, retailers and manufacturers respect originality and put our country on a global map of design. India is known as a country of art, crafts and culture and it is teeming with creative energy at every second. The days are not too far, when we can make a difference in the international design scene, only if we nurture our originality and innovation. %%

Do integrities subsist in the jewellery industry? Certainly jewellers can use conflict free diamonds, clean gold, and employ workers of legal age, asserting that now they’re perfectly clean and dutiful to ethical practices. However, what about deceitful practices including art plagiarism and design infringement? The most precise term for this illegal appropriation in the jewellery industry is inspired by… %% The trouble arises from the fact that most jewellerydesigns are based on a few traditional styles. Everything else is an evolution of one of these styles. These days, designinga fresh collection infrequently means creation. More often it is modification. Therefore, for jewellery producers to claim that they created some completely radical new design has lost its excitement and trust factor. %% {{Priyanka Desai}} spoke to eight leading jewellery designers of India and two renowned gemological institutes to get to the bottom of this problem. Each one of them agreed that design infringement and plagiarism is extremely rampant in our industry and that design protection laws in India are too weak to control it. %%

{{Omnipresent Malpractice}}%% {{Is design infringement, a rampant practice in Indian jewellery trade? }} %% “Design Infringement is something that the industry has not taken seriously in the Indian jewellery segment. It is deep rooted and despite measures like copyright, it is an ongoing shameless practice. To keep a tab on this is becoming very difficult as we are in an age where uploading your latest designs online becomes important, to connect and reach out to widen your audience. This bridge is the most common source of the cheap practice,” opines SumitSawhney, Jewellery Designer and Director, Apala. %% “I think design infringement is not that rampant in Indian jewellery segment but there is still quite a large vacuum in terms of awareness and know how. I believe that the people and especially the industry on the whole needs to step a foot forward in terms of creativity, innovation, awareness and technicalities,” articulates SunitaShekhawat, Jewellery Designer and Director, Midas. %% “Yes, I completely agree that design infringement is very rampant in our trade. With cutthroat competition in the jewellery market, everyone is doing all it takes to get more and more business. Even if that requires murdering the ethics of originality, people are not hesitant. It has become more commercial especially when everyone wants to get a ‘bigger slice of the cake’,” shares Chhaya Jain, Jewel Architect, Zahav Jewels. %% “Yes, it is truly sad but one would have to agree that design infringement is rampant in Indian jewellery segment today. The laws stated towards design rights are still not strong enough in our industry,” states SangeetaBoochra, (a brand of Silver Centrre). %% “Yes, unfortunately that is the truth. It takes great effort to come up with an innovative concept, but few seconds to copy it. With more accessibility to designs via magazines, social media, etc., designs end up being copied and knock down versions are available very quickly,” expresses Mira Gulati, Founder and Principal Designer, Mirari. %% “Yes. Definitely, design infringement is rampant in this segment. As the companies with huge marketing budgets publicise the products and the actual creator if not able to do that is deprived of the credits of being the creator.” Varuna D Jani, Jewellery Designer and Adornologist, gives a newer viewpoint. %% “Yes, design infringement is present. The extent of its presence depends on designer ethics and values. Our designs are completely unique and beautiful.Wehave rarity in quality and gems. However, technically if the design is very full proof, it is difficult to copy the intricate detailing,” explains Amar Ghanasingh, Founder and Director, Amar Ghanasingh Eternal Jewellery. %% “Yes, it is quite rampant in India. That is why; I am always concerned while promoting images of my designs. There have been many instances where people have copied my designs. For a designer, there is nothing more important than her designs. I work from scratch to design a piece and a lot of imagination; efforts and time are involved in the process. It is hurtful to witness that my designs are being copied,” says Monica Kapur, Jewellery Designer and Director, Aum Monica Kapur. %%

{{The Blame Game}}%% {{On who to place the blame— retailers, manufacturers and aspiring designers or even established designers? }} %% Sawhney explains, “Before playing the blame game it is important to understand the vitality of training. A good design teacher’s job to train its students place utmost importance on original creation, understanding the concept of being inspired only at a reference level and creating from their head and heart. So it is the teacher’s job to take control and guide the students of not falling in this trap, as this would hinder their growth in long term.Some aspiring designers feel that by copying the same design may give results but at times do not understand the viability of commercial selling. Plagiarism is less prevalent amongst the established designers. But, some established designers misuse the royal classic jewellery designs by calling it their own creation. Plagiarism is highest the manufacturers’ level. They feel it is their right to have control on any latest catalogue and manufacture it. Sometimes the manufacturer mass-produces a copied design even before the originator has launched it in the market. This is more common in fashion jewellery. Talking about retailers, sometimes customers demand to copy a design they see somewhere else to get a better price.Some retailers, who also manufacture, follow this route. This has been followed for ages. But, there are better retailers who are cashing on being unique and not following this plagiarism path.” %% Shekhawat does not want to pin point but states, “It is hard to put the blame on just one segment. Plagiarism has unfortunately become a vital part of our entire industry. I believe all of us really need to be ethically correct and not degrade someone else’s creativity by copying it.” %% Jain concurs with Sawhney and states, “It is mainly the retailers and manufacturers who lack the understanding and importance of design sensibilities. A true artist/designer would draw inspiration but not imitate another piece of art or design. Another fact is, India being a vast and diverse market in terms of the design concepts and styles, everyone wants to stock a bit of everything. The reason is that our market is a mix bag of numerous religions, castes and cultures.” %% Boochra agrees that some established designers are involved in plagiarism, too. She replies, “In my opinion, aspiring designers and jewellery manufacturers are involved in plagiarism. Infact, even some established designers’ copy or steal an idea and then with their marketing tool, promote the product. If the idea or design is stolen from a lesser established designer then their (well-established designers’) unethical practices are blanketed.” %% Gulati too, preferred not to pin point at the various segments of our trade. She said, “There is no specific answer to that. However, it is an evil that exists.” %% Jani lays emphasis on the creator than the copycat in her answer. She states, “A fashion trend is invented by one but followed by all. Similar is the case with jewellery designs and trends. The only difference is that in fashion the creator gets the visibility. This is not always the case in jewellery as it is more of a commodity. Copying a design is like flattering the jewellery designer but in the whole process the creator should be recognised and get due credits for his/ her designs.” %% Ghanasingh is does not have a definitive opinion about this question but states, “I am not too sure about on whom to place the blame but in my opinion established designers are not involved in plagiarism.” %% Kapur too felt that generalising a segment would be wrong. She opined, “Well, we can't generalise the segment that is involved in plagiarism. Anyone in the field with a lack of knowledge and lack of creativity, can be involved in it.” %%

{{Once bitten, Twice Shy}}%% {{Please share your personal experience in terms of plagiarism. }} %% “I saw a website selling a cheap manufactured copy of my design.It had the basic form but lacked the aesthetic balance and proportions. I wrote to the website administrator to remove the product on immediate basis as this was a copy of my creation. The vendor of the website was D listed for all future contracts and they had to shell out a huge amount to compensate. From there on I have started copywriting my designs. They have also learnt that by blindly copying the designs one cannot get the same product and the niche,” shares Sawhney. %% Shekhawat preferred not to disclose her experiences and omitted this question. %% Jain has been bitten by plagiarism more than once and has become more cautious. She states, “We have experienced a few of our designs getting replicated by big names in the industry. Sadly there is not much that you can do about it. We definitely have become more cautious in sharing our jewellery images on social media websites after those incidents. Also, we believe that 'imitation is the highest form of flattery’. So if we are getting imitated, we definitely are doing better than the others. The best possible full-proof measure was to ensure that 90 per cent of our production is done in house. Our factory set up helped us to keep great control and check on issues like product quality, plagiarism, etc.” %% In this age of technology and media, let us not forget that copycats can be anywhere and not just in India. Boochra has had such an experience and tells us, “We once received a catalog from U.S. that entirely consisted of photocopied pages from my own catalog! Mostly we copyright our designs but there is nothing I could do about an U.S. copycat, which had no physical presence in India. The sad part is that while litigation, or the threat of litigation can be useful in certain extremely blatant situations, jewellery copyrights are notoriously difficult to enforce. Our response to it is to try and evolve and learn from our experiences. We now have copyrights over all of our special designs.We keep coming up with new designs more often than expected to avoid being copied too easily.” %% Gulati has seen some of her designs copied blatantly and displayed with pride in a few retail stores. She expresses, “We have had various instances where our exact signature designs have been available in other stores, with almost no changes.Initially, we were not able to do anything about it but we are looking at patenting a few of our designs to stop this practice.” %% Having your designs copied is already hurtful but having your designs sold to various manufacturers by your own trusted employee? This issue is far worse than just infringement and plagiarism. Jani has been at the receiving end of such a shameful theft. She exclaims, “I did have an experience whereby one of my employees had sold my designs to various manufacturing houses and the case is under litigation. The designs that were sold belonged to a very niche and innovative collection. I created the modular jewellery, which is a category of multipurpose jewellery, versatile and timeless and can be worn to fit various occasions in different avatars.” %% Ghanasingh like Shekhawat chose not to disclose his experiences regarding plagiarism. %% Kapur had a very recent experience, which was distasteful. “Just last week, I posted a design on Facebook as part of my promotion for Akshay Tritya. The very next day, a jeweller posted the same image as his collection. I was shocked to see that not only he had used my design on his Facebook account, but also claimed it to be his own design. Unfortunately, in India laws are not strict enough to take actions against such people and ultimately you can't take any action and have to live with it,” she says with a sigh. %%

{{All Rights Reserved}}%% {{Are copyright and patenting measures helpful in jewellery design segment? }} %% “In my early years, I was always like an eagle watching over carefully so that no one could copy my design. But it is extremely difficult to control this. With experience andtime I came out of this shell and I got assured that if some one has copied my design then it means I am more superior or talented. I say to myself, ‘He can copy one or two of my designs not my creativity and expertise’. I ensure that the jewels are marketed well and are sold, then discontinued. So there is always something new and constant innovation is taking place.Patenting has been a helpful tool at a level that atleast it creates some fear of a legal action for the other person entering this space,”explains Sawhney. %% Shekhawat replies, “I do ensure that my designs are patented as all the pieces are crafted with lot of passion and individuality. But, in India the law in terms of design protection should be more secure.” %% Jain has not yet tried the legal measures and explains the reason. She says, “We haven't yet tried any of these. It could curb plagiarism to a very minimal extend, but with the rapidly evolving and easily available technologies, copying is just a click away.” %% Boochra practices the legal measures but puts forth a larger picture. “We copyright most of our fast selling designs but they aren’t really helpful because if a design is copied outside India and the company which has copied it does not have a physical presence in India, it becomes quite difficult to protect the rights. Also in terms of financials, it is expensive to go after every designer or company that is copying your design.” Boochra exclaims. %% Gulati said, “As mentioned earlier, we are looking at enforcing the legal measures. I would not be able to comment on the usefulness of them without having an experience.” %% Jani endorses the legal measures and opines, “Yes, I have realised that although patenting a design is a tedious process, it is very beneficial in the long run. In the short run one may not see immediate effects and results. In the long run it allows in creating and building the brand image one desires. It gives value to the brand and the iconic design also becomes the signature of the brand and top of the mind recall amongst the audience.” %% Ghanasingh says that though designs are patented, plagiarism still takes place and the creator too takes it as a part of the business. He clarifies, “Yes, we ensure that our designs are copyrighted or patented and are careful while letting out a particular design in the market. However in our line of business, the designs are often copied. How many people would you get a hold of while releasing a particular design? It is next to impossible to completely eliminate plagiarism in our industry. I believe that if one is successful, he will be copied.” %% Kapur shares the same view. She explains, “Although, not all my designs are copyright protected, I think it is a good idea to get them patented. However, as we all know, in a country like India, it is very difficult to keep a watch on plagiarism.” %%

{{Aping The West}}%% {{What are your thoughts about ‘inspiration’ from the West and its place in India? }} %% “I feel inspiration from western countries and their designers should be used in the ability to create precision and finesse in manufacturing in India. India has a lot of design talent and the best artisans. We can proudly show our regional craft to the world.The combination of handwork and western machine manufacturing techniques should be adapted to create the perfect masterpieces.Also, what I appreciate about the western jewellery is the importance of following a theme to the jewellery, which is a mirror to your originality,” elucidates Sawhney. %% Shekhawat states there is good place for western designs in Indian markets. She clarifies, “As India is rising as a more receptive country, Indians are quite open to new and fresh ideas. The western designs can be rightly marketed here, fetching a good position for themselves and the brand.” %% Jain is a believer in inspiration from the west but believes more in their finishing and detailing. She says, “An inspiration is very important for any artist. One needs to be driven and motivated by another artist, art, place, culture, nature, etc. to create a unique piece of art. There is a lot that one can take inspirations from when it comes to western designers, as they are at par with the use of latest techniques in their jewellery. We could try and achieve similar excellence in detailing and finishing too in our jewellery pieces. A western theme, idea or a concept with a right twist of Indian touch can create an original, extraordinary piece of art.” %% Boochra explains that it is not the designs that are the most inspiring about the west but it is their pride in their heritage, history and culture that is motivational. She further explicates, “The world’s best designers and design houses are from western countries. Some designers Like Coco Chanel, Donatella Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, Pierre Cardin, etc., are the people who gave birth to the term ‘designer’. What inspires me most is the way they present their culture and heritage to the world in forms of design. They come with such strong roots in terms of design and style that they are the trendsetters for every season. Their every design is a reflection of their own personality and background, be it in the form of design: in forms of prints, jewellery or clothes. They have preserved their heritage unlike any other and that is the reason why the world is bowled over by the beauty of their designs, museums, architecture and heritage. India is rich in culture and we should respect our heritage. We should get inspired by these Western designers and try to preserve the heritage and maintain our culture and do our bit for bringing Indian designs on the World map.” %% Gulati is a believer in fusion of the west and east. “Everyone derives inspiration, some from nature, history, etc. It is natural to be influenced by international trends and brands. India has an extremely rich design history and the elements, colours, textures and motifs that we are privilege to inherit must be reflected in our jewellery. We at Mirari, attempt to create jewellery that is an amalgamation of the east and the west,” she states. %%

Jani concurs with Gulati but also has a new point of view amalgamating vintage with contemporary to create ‘vintemporary jewellery’. She articulates, “In my opinion, western designs are very classic and elegant. We (Varuna D Jani Fine Jewellery) have moulded the classic with style leading to classic redefined jewellery. Indian heritage blended with modular designs have bought a new category of vintemporary jewellery— vintage plus contemporary. A classic never goes out of fashion as such type of jewellery is timeless, versatile and can be teamed with casual as well as traditional attires. When one invests in jewellery above INR 5 lacs it is always advisable to go for something classic with a contemporary twist.” %% Ghanasingh is inspired by seemingly nonchalant but extremely important feature of the western jewellery trade— the packaging. The packaging is something that sets the mood and makes the first impression about a designer but most Indian designers and retailers have yet not fully understood its importance. But, Ghanasingh is highly inspired by it. “I must say that I am very inspired by the packaging which is used by western countries. I have always said that in jewellery the packaging will matter. In terms of jewellery design, some designs specific to western countries are not at all applicable to India.” %% Kapur rightly puts it, “India has always been known as a country of artisans and craftsmen. Therefore just like western countries, India too possesses talented designers. As far as ‘inspiration’ is concerned, one can learn from different themes and methods used by western designers. But a design should never be copied in the name of ‘inspiration’.” %% {{Teaching Originality}}%% After having the views and opinions of eight of the leading jewellery designers of our country, we thought it to be right to have views of the leading institutes in India, who are renowned for their jewellery design courses. Below are the views of these institutes: %% Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery (IIGJ) (supported by GJEPC) %% Col. S K Arora, Head, IIGJ (Mumbai) says, “Infringement occurs when there is a likelihood of confusion with regard to similar shape, configuration and surface pattern or appearance of any articles having similar nature and purpose. With so many design products being churned out of the industry by various creative designers it is likely to have similar patterns but yet each product of this significant industry represents a unique combination with aspect of creativity.” %% He adds, “At the Institute, the students are taught to design creatively considering the changing markets trends. They are allowed to refer books from the library to understand the markets better. Referring to design portfolios from the industry are also a part of their training but in spite of this exposure the students have to strictly adhere to self creativity. As each design of the students is their own creativity they also have to protect it. Hence, guest lecturers as well as small introduction to patenting and trademarks is given to the students during their learning period.” %%

International Gemological Institute (IGI) %% Tehmasp Printer, MD, IGI India opines, “There is no doubt that design infringement and plagiarism is wide-spread in our industry. It is difficult to know who is copying whom in our field. The reason being,the term, ‘design’ is very loose in our country. If one copies Chopard or Cartier, you will know that it has been copied as they have a classic style and a design that resonates their identity. In India, it is not about the original design but it is about a trend. If a certain trend is booming in the market, then most jewellers start producing pieces like that. In my opinion, protecting your design from being copied is not possible. The only way to combat this is to mass-produce. If a designer feels that a certain design is working well with his buyers, then mass produce and sell it off, before someone else does.” %% Talking about IGI stand on this issue, he states, “At our institute, we teach designing skills. We help them create their own personal style and nurture it. We believe in helping them find a definitive style of their own, irrespective of trends and fashion statements. It is difficult for a person to identify his style but once he finds it, he will stick to it and nurture it. We do not have any classes on copyrights and patenting. In my opinion, it is not feasible in design field or any creative field. Also, the worry about being copied curtails creativity and is not worth it. I tell our students that imitating is the best for of flattery and if they are being copied then that means, they are talented and creative. I advice them to show off their creativity, carve a niche for themselves and not worry about being copied.” %% With such varied views and advices, we hope that the designers, retailers and manufacturers respect originality and put our country on a global map of design. India is known as a country of art, crafts and culture and it is teeming with creative energy at every second. The days are not too far, when we can make a difference in the international design scene, only if we nurture our originality and innovation. %%

Do integrities subsist in the jewellery industry? Certainly jewellers can use conflict free diamonds, clean gold, and employ workers of legal age, asserting that now they’re perfectly clean and dutiful to ethical practices. However, what about deceitful practices including art plagiarism and design infringement? The most precise term for this illegal appropriation in the jewellery industry is inspired by… %% The trouble arises from the fact that most jewellerydesigns are based on a few traditional styles. Everything else is an evolution of one of these styles. These days, designinga fresh collection infrequently means creation. More often it is modification. Therefore, for jewellery producers to claim that they created some completely radical new design has lost its excitement and trust factor. %% {{Priyanka Desai}} spoke to eight leading jewellery designers of India and two renowned gemological institutes to get to the bottom of this problem. Each one of them agreed that design infringement and plagiarism is extremely rampant in our industry and that design protection laws in India are too weak to control it. %%

{{Omnipresent Malpractice}}%% {{Is design infringement, a rampant practice in Indian jewellery trade? }} %% “Design Infringement is something that the industry has not taken seriously in the Indian jewellery segment. It is deep rooted and despite measures like copyright, it is an ongoing shameless practice. To keep a tab on this is becoming very difficult as we are in an age where uploading your latest designs online becomes important, to connect and reach out to widen your audience. This bridge is the most common source of the cheap practice,” opines SumitSawhney, Jewellery Designer and Director, Apala. %% “I think design infringement is not that rampant in Indian jewellery segment but there is still quite a large vacuum in terms of awareness and know how. I believe that the people and especially the industry on the whole needs to step a foot forward in terms of creativity, innovation, awareness and technicalities,” articulates SunitaShekhawat, Jewellery Designer and Director, Midas. %% “Yes, I completely agree that design infringement is very rampant in our trade. With cutthroat competition in the jewellery market, everyone is doing all it takes to get more and more business. Even if that requires murdering the ethics of originality, people are not hesitant. It has become more commercial especially when everyone wants to get a ‘bigger slice of the cake’,” shares Chhaya Jain, Jewel Architect, Zahav Jewels. %% “Yes, it is truly sad but one would have to agree that design infringement is rampant in Indian jewellery segment today. The laws stated towards design rights are still not strong enough in our industry,” states SangeetaBoochra, (a brand of Silver Centrre). %% “Yes, unfortunately that is the truth. It takes great effort to come up with an innovative concept, but few seconds to copy it. With more accessibility to designs via magazines, social media, etc., designs end up being copied and knock down versions are available very quickly,” expresses Mira Gulati, Founder and Principal Designer, Mirari. %% “Yes. Definitely, design infringement is rampant in this segment. As the companies with huge marketing budgets publicise the products and the actual creator if not able to do that is deprived of the credits of being the creator.” Varuna D Jani, Jewellery Designer and Adornologist, gives a newer viewpoint. %% “Yes, design infringement is present. The extent of its presence depends on designer ethics and values. Our designs are completely unique and beautiful.Wehave rarity in quality and gems. However, technically if the design is very full proof, it is difficult to copy the intricate detailing,” explains Amar Ghanasingh, Founder and Director, Amar Ghanasingh Eternal Jewellery. %% “Yes, it is quite rampant in India. That is why; I am always concerned while promoting images of my designs. There have been many instances where people have copied my designs. For a designer, there is nothing more important than her designs. I work from scratch to design a piece and a lot of imagination; efforts and time are involved in the process. It is hurtful to witness that my designs are being copied,” says Monica Kapur, Jewellery Designer and Director, Aum Monica Kapur. %%

{{The Blame Game}}%% {{On who to place the blame— retailers, manufacturers and aspiring designers or even established designers? }} %% Sawhney explains, “Before playing the blame game it is important to understand the vitality of training. A good design teacher’s job to train its students place utmost importance on original creation, understanding the concept of being inspired only at a reference level and creating from their head and heart. So it is the teacher’s job to take control and guide the students of not falling in this trap, as this would hinder their growth in long term.Some aspiring designers feel that by copying the same design may give results but at times do not understand the viability of commercial selling. Plagiarism is less prevalent amongst the established designers. But, some established designers misuse the royal classic jewellery designs by calling it their own creation. Plagiarism is highest the manufacturers’ level. They feel it is their right to have control on any latest catalogue and manufacture it. Sometimes the manufacturer mass-produces a copied design even before the originator has launched it in the market. This is more common in fashion jewellery. Talking about retailers, sometimes customers demand to copy a design they see somewhere else to get a better price.Some retailers, who also manufacture, follow this route. This has been followed for ages. But, there are better retailers who are cashing on being unique and not following this plagiarism path.” %% Shekhawat does not want to pin point but states, “It is hard to put the blame on just one segment. Plagiarism has unfortunately become a vital part of our entire industry. I believe all of us really need to be ethically correct and not degrade someone else’s creativity by copying it.” %% Jain concurs with Sawhney and states, “It is mainly the retailers and manufacturers who lack the understanding and importance of design sensibilities. A true artist/designer would draw inspiration but not imitate another piece of art or design. Another fact is, India being a vast and diverse market in terms of the design concepts and styles, everyone wants to stock a bit of everything. The reason is that our market is a mix bag of numerous religions, castes and cultures.” %% Boochra agrees that some established designers are involved in plagiarism, too. She replies, “In my opinion, aspiring designers and jewellery manufacturers are involved in plagiarism. Infact, even some established designers’ copy or steal an idea and then with their marketing tool, promote the product. If the idea or design is stolen from a lesser established designer then their (well-established designers’) unethical practices are blanketed.” %% Gulati too, preferred not to pin point at the various segments of our trade. She said, “There is no specific answer to that. However, it is an evil that exists.” %% Jani lays emphasis on the creator than the copycat in her answer. She states, “A fashion trend is invented by one but followed by all. Similar is the case with jewellery designs and trends. The only difference is that in fashion the creator gets the visibility. This is not always the case in jewellery as it is more of a commodity. Copying a design is like flattering the jewellery designer but in the whole process the creator should be recognised and get due credits for his/ her designs.” %% Ghanasingh is does not have a definitive opinion about this question but states, “I am not too sure about on whom to place the blame but in my opinion established designers are not involved in plagiarism.” %% Kapur too felt that generalising a segment would be wrong. She opined, “Well, we can't generalise the segment that is involved in plagiarism. Anyone in the field with a lack of knowledge and lack of creativity, can be involved in it.” %%

{{Once bitten, Twice Shy}}%% {{Please share your personal experience in terms of plagiarism. }} %% “I saw a website selling a cheap manufactured copy of my design.It had the basic form but lacked the aesthetic balance and proportions. I wrote to the website administrator to remove the product on immediate basis as this was a copy of my creation. The vendor of the website was D listed for all future contracts and they had to shell out a huge amount to compensate. From there on I have started copywriting my designs. They have also learnt that by blindly copying the designs one cannot get the same product and the niche,” shares Sawhney. %% Shekhawat preferred not to disclose her experiences and omitted this question. %% Jain has been bitten by plagiarism more than once and has become more cautious. She states, “We have experienced a few of our designs getting replicated by big names in the industry. Sadly there is not much that you can do about it. We definitely have become more cautious in sharing our jewellery images on social media websites after those incidents. Also, we believe that 'imitation is the highest form of flattery’. So if we are getting imitated, we definitely are doing better than the others. The best possible full-proof measure was to ensure that 90 per cent of our production is done in house. Our factory set up helped us to keep great control and check on issues like product quality, plagiarism, etc.” %% In this age of technology and media, let us not forget that copycats can be anywhere and not just in India. Boochra has had such an experience and tells us, “We once received a catalog from U.S. that entirely consisted of photocopied pages from my own catalog! Mostly we copyright our designs but there is nothing I could do about an U.S. copycat, which had no physical presence in India. The sad part is that while litigation, or the threat of litigation can be useful in certain extremely blatant situations, jewellery copyrights are notoriously difficult to enforce. Our response to it is to try and evolve and learn from our experiences. We now have copyrights over all of our special designs.We keep coming up with new designs more often than expected to avoid being copied too easily.” %% Gulati has seen some of her designs copied blatantly and displayed with pride in a few retail stores. She expresses, “We have had various instances where our exact signature designs have been available in other stores, with almost no changes.Initially, we were not able to do anything about it but we are looking at patenting a few of our designs to stop this practice.” %% Having your designs copied is already hurtful but having your designs sold to various manufacturers by your own trusted employee? This issue is far worse than just infringement and plagiarism. Jani has been at the receiving end of such a shameful theft. She exclaims, “I did have an experience whereby one of my employees had sold my designs to various manufacturing houses and the case is under litigation. The designs that were sold belonged to a very niche and innovative collection. I created the modular jewellery, which is a category of multipurpose jewellery, versatile and timeless and can be worn to fit various occasions in different avatars.” %% Ghanasingh like Shekhawat chose not to disclose his experiences regarding plagiarism. %% Kapur had a very recent experience, which was distasteful. “Just last week, I posted a design on Facebook as part of my promotion for Akshay Tritya. The very next day, a jeweller posted the same image as his collection. I was shocked to see that not only he had used my design on his Facebook account, but also claimed it to be his own design. Unfortunately, in India laws are not strict enough to take actions against such people and ultimately you can't take any action and have to live with it,” she says with a sigh. %%

{{All Rights Reserved}}%% {{Are copyright and patenting measures helpful in jewellery design segment? }} %% “In my early years, I was always like an eagle watching over carefully so that no one could copy my design. But it is extremely difficult to control this. With experience andtime I came out of this shell and I got assured that if some one has copied my design then it means I am more superior or talented. I say to myself, ‘He can copy one or two of my designs not my creativity and expertise’. I ensure that the jewels are marketed well and are sold, then discontinued. So there is always something new and constant innovation is taking place.Patenting has been a helpful tool at a level that atleast it creates some fear of a legal action for the other person entering this space,”explains Sawhney. %% Shekhawat replies, “I do ensure that my designs are patented as all the pieces are crafted with lot of passion and individuality. But, in India the law in terms of design protection should be more secure.” %% Jain has not yet tried the legal measures and explains the reason. She says, “We haven't yet tried any of these. It could curb plagiarism to a very minimal extend, but with the rapidly evolving and easily available technologies, copying is just a click away.” %% Boochra practices the legal measures but puts forth a larger picture. “We copyright most of our fast selling designs but they aren’t really helpful because if a design is copied outside India and the company which has copied it does not have a physical presence in India, it becomes quite difficult to protect the rights. Also in terms of financials, it is expensive to go after every designer or company that is copying your design.” Boochra exclaims. %% Gulati said, “As mentioned earlier, we are looking at enforcing the legal measures. I would not be able to comment on the usefulness of them without having an experience.” %% Jani endorses the legal measures and opines, “Yes, I have realised that although patenting a design is a tedious process, it is very beneficial in the long run. In the short run one may not see immediate effects and results. In the long run it allows in creating and building the brand image one desires. It gives value to the brand and the iconic design also becomes the signature of the brand and top of the mind recall amongst the audience.” %% Ghanasingh says that though designs are patented, plagiarism still takes place and the creator too takes it as a part of the business. He clarifies, “Yes, we ensure that our designs are copyrighted or patented and are careful while letting out a particular design in the market. However in our line of business, the designs are often copied. How many people would you get a hold of while releasing a particular design? It is next to impossible to completely eliminate plagiarism in our industry. I believe that if one is successful, he will be copied.” %% Kapur shares the same view. She explains, “Although, not all my designs are copyright protected, I think it is a good idea to get them patented. However, as we all know, in a country like India, it is very difficult to keep a watch on plagiarism.” %%

{{Aping The West}}%% {{What are your thoughts about ‘inspiration’ from the West and its place in India? }} %% “I feel inspiration from western countries and their designers should be used in the ability to create precision and finesse in manufacturing in India. India has a lot of design talent and the best artisans. We can proudly show our regional craft to the world.The combination of handwork and western machine manufacturing techniques should be adapted to create the perfect masterpieces.Also, what I appreciate about the western jewellery is the importance of following a theme to the jewellery, which is a mirror to your originality,” elucidates Sawhney. %% Shekhawat states there is good place for western designs in Indian markets. She clarifies, “As India is rising as a more receptive country, Indians are quite open to new and fresh ideas. The western designs can be rightly marketed here, fetching a good position for themselves and the brand.” %% Jain is a believer in inspiration from the west but believes more in their finishing and detailing. She says, “An inspiration is very important for any artist. One needs to be driven and motivated by another artist, art, place, culture, nature, etc. to create a unique piece of art. There is a lot that one can take inspirations from when it comes to western designers, as they are at par with the use of latest techniques in their jewellery. We could try and achieve similar excellence in detailing and finishing too in our jewellery pieces. A western theme, idea or a concept with a right twist of Indian touch can create an original, extraordinary piece of art.” %% Boochra explains that it is not the designs that are the most inspiring about the west but it is their pride in their heritage, history and culture that is motivational. She further explicates, “The world’s best designers and design houses are from western countries. Some designers Like Coco Chanel, Donatella Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, Pierre Cardin, etc., are the people who gave birth to the term ‘designer’. What inspires me most is the way they present their culture and heritage to the world in forms of design. They come with such strong roots in terms of design and style that they are the trendsetters for every season. Their every design is a reflection of their own personality and background, be it in the form of design: in forms of prints, jewellery or clothes. They have preserved their heritage unlike any other and that is the reason why the world is bowled over by the beauty of their designs, museums, architecture and heritage. India is rich in culture and we should respect our heritage. We should get inspired by these Western designers and try to preserve the heritage and maintain our culture and do our bit for bringing Indian designs on the World map.” %% Gulati is a believer in fusion of the west and east. “Everyone derives inspiration, some from nature, history, etc. It is natural to be influenced by international trends and brands. India has an extremely rich design history and the elements, colours, textures and motifs that we are privilege to inherit must be reflected in our jewellery. We at Mirari, attempt to create jewellery that is an amalgamation of the east and the west,” she states. %%

Jani concurs with Gulati but also has a new point of view amalgamating vintage with contemporary to create ‘vintemporary jewellery’. She articulates, “In my opinion, western designs are very classic and elegant. We (Varuna D Jani Fine Jewellery) have moulded the classic with style leading to classic redefined jewellery. Indian heritage blended with modular designs have bought a new category of vintemporary jewellery— vintage plus contemporary. A classic never goes out of fashion as such type of jewellery is timeless, versatile and can be teamed with casual as well as traditional attires. When one invests in jewellery above INR 5 lacs it is always advisable to go for something classic with a contemporary twist.” %% Ghanasingh is inspired by seemingly nonchalant but extremely important feature of the western jewellery trade— the packaging. The packaging is something that sets the mood and makes the first impression about a designer but most Indian designers and retailers have yet not fully understood its importance. But, Ghanasingh is highly inspired by it. “I must say that I am very inspired by the packaging which is used by western countries. I have always said that in jewellery the packaging will matter. In terms of jewellery design, some designs specific to western countries are not at all applicable to India.” %% Kapur rightly puts it, “India has always been known as a country of artisans and craftsmen. Therefore just like western countries, India too possesses talented designers. As far as ‘inspiration’ is concerned, one can learn from different themes and methods used by western designers. But a design should never be copied in the name of ‘inspiration’.” %% {{Teaching Originality}}%% After having the views and opinions of eight of the leading jewellery designers of our country, we thought it to be right to have views of the leading institutes in India, who are renowned for their jewellery design courses. Below are the views of these institutes: %% Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery (IIGJ) (supported by GJEPC) %% Col. S K Arora, Head, IIGJ (Mumbai) says, “Infringement occurs when there is a likelihood of confusion with regard to similar shape, configuration and surface pattern or appearance of any articles having similar nature and purpose. With so many design products being churned out of the industry by various creative designers it is likely to have similar patterns but yet each product of this significant industry represents a unique combination with aspect of creativity.” %% He adds, “At the Institute, the students are taught to design creatively considering the changing markets trends. They are allowed to refer books from the library to understand the markets better. Referring to design portfolios from the industry are also a part of their training but in spite of this exposure the students have to strictly adhere to self creativity. As each design of the students is their own creativity they also have to protect it. Hence, guest lecturers as well as small introduction to patenting and trademarks is given to the students during their learning period.” %%

International Gemological Institute (IGI) %% Tehmasp Printer, MD, IGI India opines, “There is no doubt that design infringement and plagiarism is wide-spread in our industry. It is difficult to know who is copying whom in our field. The reason being,the term, ‘design’ is very loose in our country. If one copies Chopard or Cartier, you will know that it has been copied as they have a classic style and a design that resonates their identity. In India, it is not about the original design but it is about a trend. If a certain trend is booming in the market, then most jewellers start producing pieces like that. In my opinion, protecting your design from being copied is not possible. The only way to combat this is to mass-produce. If a designer feels that a certain design is working well with his buyers, then mass produce and sell it off, before someone else does.” %% Talking about IGI stand on this issue, he states, “At our institute, we teach designing skills. We help them create their own personal style and nurture it. We believe in helping them find a definitive style of their own, irrespective of trends and fashion statements. It is difficult for a person to identify his style but once he finds it, he will stick to it and nurture it. We do not have any classes on copyrights and patenting. In my opinion, it is not feasible in design field or any creative field. Also, the worry about being copied curtails creativity and is not worth it. I tell our students that imitating is the best for of flattery and if they are being copied then that means, they are talented and creative. I advice them to show off their creativity, carve a niche for themselves and not worry about being copied.” %% With such varied views and advices, we hope that the designers, retailers and manufacturers respect originality and put our country on a global map of design. India is known as a country of art, crafts and culture and it is teeming with creative energy at every second. The days are not too far, when we can make a difference in the international design scene, only if we nurture our originality and innovation. %%