From hand-made jewellery to casting to CNC, jewellery machines have come long-way. With the changing times, technology for making jewellery has evolved drastically. To know the process, technology, hindrances and more that goes into creating the shimmering jewellery, Kunjal Karaniya and Neha Parulkar spoke to few machine manufacturers and experts. %% Body: Jewellery making requires various machineries. Mainly a Vulcanizer, wax injector, three-in-one casting machine, steam dewaxer, burnout furnace, magnetic polishing machine, ultrasonic cleaner, plating machine and a stamping machine. The procedure for making jewellery is complex, but easy, once the steps involved are learnt. On this, Ashokbhai Parmar, Director, Gurukrupa informs, “The procedure for making a jewellery piece involves in creating a rubber mould based on the design. Wax pieces are made out of the rubber. After the mould is ready, the mould is then places in the casting machine and molten metal is poured in the mould followed by the removal of wax. The piece is then created and sent for polishing.” %% Nickunj Shah, Director, Nickunj Eximp Entp Pvt Ltd shares about the various machines used, “There are machines for every process and step of jewellery making : Rapid Prototyping; Vulcanizers; Wax Injectors; Investment Mixers; Casting machines; Burnout Furnaces; Stone Setting Machines; Micro-setting setups; Filing and Polishing Machines (dry and wet); Grinding Machines; Media Finish Machines (Barrel finish); Electro Stripping and Plating Machines; Labelling and Certifying Machines; Laser Markers, Welders, Engravers and Cutters.” %% S.K Das, Director, Stoker Concast explains in brief, “There are two kinds of jewellery, handmade and machine made. Handmade jewellery making is a traditional art where technicians blow air and the concentrated flame is higher than the melting temperature of the metal. Machines on the other hand make the work easy. The basic is the casting machine. The duration for making a pieces or pieces depends on company to company. Generally, every company or jewellery brand makes 25 to 50 kgs jewellery per day. It also depends on the gold purchased from RBI each day. Within three days complicated jewellery should be ready if the production is around 25kgs per day. If a piece includes precious gems and stones then it takes a little longer.”%%

Rajan Mistry, Director, Rajson International explains the procedure involved in detail, “It starts by choosing a model for casting. A model is a piece of jewellery that you want to make a mould out of. Then you make a rubber mould using a model. You can purchase an unvulcanized rubber moulding compound at local arts and crafts supply store. Press your model into a suitably sized mass of the rubber moulding compound. Subject the rubber mould to heat according to instructions in order to vulcanize the rubber. We generally vulcanize for 45 minutes and set the thermostat at 150 degree. A knife is then used to cut the model out of the mould. After its cut open, the model is removed and what is left is the ‘cavity’. Then we inject the mould with melted wax. It is essential that the correct pressures are applied and it is timed accurately to ensure that optimal results are achieved. We melt wax at 70 degrees. The cavity is then filled with the wax with the help of accurate pressure. Remove the wax piece after it has cooled. Wax is used primarily because it retains its shape during the moulding process, and therefore produces excellent results. The next step involves in placing the wax piece on the casting tree and investing the flask. When all pieces have been correctly placed, a flask is place over the tree which is covered by a packing tape. The investment solution we use is similar to Plaster of Paris. For one and half kg of powder, 750 ml of water is required. The mixture is then vacuumed in order to suck the air which is present in the mixture. It is necessary to remove the air for a perfect finished output. The mixture is poured in the can and left for three hours to set. After cooling, remove the tape and the base and dewax the tree using dewaxer. Once the wax is melted, you are left with the cavity. Place the entire flask in a kiln set to approximately 1100 degrees. This will harden the mould leaving a hollow chamber in the center of the cast jewellery mould. Place your metal of choice in a pouring crucible, and then melt it inside a foundry. The melting temperature and time will be determined by the type of metal you are using. Pour liquid metal from the pouring crucible into the mould through the tunnel left by the melted wax support stick. Again, vacuum in order to suck the air. Metal will then take the shape of the cavity. Allow the metal to cool and once the metal has set, the ring/ jewellery is cut off the tree. The jewellery is now created and is further polished and finished.” %% Coming to the technology, Amol Kharote, Director, Amol Dies says, “There are various types and kinds of machinery that is used in jewellery business. Mainly Jewellery Casting machine, jewellery making and jewellery polishing machine. Private and big brands now-a-days use the ‘CNC machine’ which is a new and advanced technology. This machine is basically a computerized jewellery making machine. The duration of making a piece depends on the type and style. If it’s a simple and easy-to-make design then it can be made in hours or even days.” “In the local jewellery manufacturing it is observed that very few producers are using the current technology and that also for gold and platinum jewellery manufacturing. There is latest technology available in Lasers, Rapid Prototyping and polish related processes. The actual technology of the polishing of jewellery used in India is ages old and not at par with the global standards even in gold and platinum,” adds Nickunj Shah.%%

Generally, the same machine is used for all alloys. Only different casting machine is used for platinum since the melting point for platinum is higher than other alloys. Different machines are used for artificial jewellery as well due to production capacity and other aspects, says Rajan Mistry. On this, Nickunj Shah shares the details, “For platinum jewellery, different set of machines mentioned above are required for manufacturing. For gold and silver jewellery, making is similar and all the machines for this range are common till the plating stag. For brass jewellery, special methods are employed in brass casting and the materials and consumables are different from those used in gold /silver. For stone setting, investment powders and burnouts as well as chemical treatment after casting is different for stone setting jewellery compared to the plain gold jewellery. %% Coming to the the important aspects considered before producing the jewellery and the difficulties faced during production, Nickunj Shah says, “ Important aspects considered are : Jewellery is highly regional dependent so one has to plan and target the right product. One has to plan his space requirements after deciding his production capacity. One has to develop and train the required workforce required for the manufacturing of jewellery. Acquiring the right technology for efficient production and market proximity and labour availability is also vital.” In the competitive market, difficulties faced are, “Knowledge of process, metal losses to be maintained to stay in competitive prices, metal porosity, metal hardness, getting the required metal finish and aesthetics of jewellery and material procurement.”%% At the end, talking about duration for making the jewellery, Nickunj Shah sums up, “There are many types of duration periods as per the product required. Deadline for mass produced jewellery is generally 30 to 60 days. For Designer Jewellery the period is also around 45 to 80 days. For customized jewellery in local requirement the time duration is 15 days. All these go with some hot orders which have to be produced within two to three days as per the requirement of customers.”%%

From hand-made jewellery to casting to CNC, jewellery machines have come long-way. With the changing times, technology for making jewellery has evolved drastically. To know the process, technology, hindrances and more that goes into creating the shimmering jewellery, Kunjal Karaniya and Neha Parulkar spoke to few machine manufacturers and experts. %% Body: Jewellery making requires various machineries. Mainly a Vulcanizer, wax injector, three-in-one casting machine, steam dewaxer, burnout furnace, magnetic polishing machine, ultrasonic cleaner, plating machine and a stamping machine. The procedure for making jewellery is complex, but easy, once the steps involved are learnt. On this, Ashokbhai Parmar, Director, Gurukrupa informs, “The procedure for making a jewellery piece involves in creating a rubber mould based on the design. Wax pieces are made out of the rubber. After the mould is ready, the mould is then places in the casting machine and molten metal is poured in the mould followed by the removal of wax. The piece is then created and sent for polishing.” %% Nickunj Shah, Director, Nickunj Eximp Entp Pvt Ltd shares about the various machines used, “There are machines for every process and step of jewellery making : Rapid Prototyping; Vulcanizers; Wax Injectors; Investment Mixers; Casting machines; Burnout Furnaces; Stone Setting Machines; Micro-setting setups; Filing and Polishing Machines (dry and wet); Grinding Machines; Media Finish Machines (Barrel finish); Electro Stripping and Plating Machines; Labelling and Certifying Machines; Laser Markers, Welders, Engravers and Cutters.” %% S.K Das, Director, Stoker Concast explains in brief, “There are two kinds of jewellery, handmade and machine made. Handmade jewellery making is a traditional art where technicians blow air and the concentrated flame is higher than the melting temperature of the metal. Machines on the other hand make the work easy. The basic is the casting machine. The duration for making a pieces or pieces depends on company to company. Generally, every company or jewellery brand makes 25 to 50 kgs jewellery per day. It also depends on the gold purchased from RBI each day. Within three days complicated jewellery should be ready if the production is around 25kgs per day. If a piece includes precious gems and stones then it takes a little longer.”%%

Rajan Mistry, Director, Rajson International explains the procedure involved in detail, “It starts by choosing a model for casting. A model is a piece of jewellery that you want to make a mould out of. Then you make a rubber mould using a model. You can purchase an unvulcanized rubber moulding compound at local arts and crafts supply store. Press your model into a suitably sized mass of the rubber moulding compound. Subject the rubber mould to heat according to instructions in order to vulcanize the rubber. We generally vulcanize for 45 minutes and set the thermostat at 150 degree. A knife is then used to cut the model out of the mould. After its cut open, the model is removed and what is left is the ‘cavity’. Then we inject the mould with melted wax. It is essential that the correct pressures are applied and it is timed accurately to ensure that optimal results are achieved. We melt wax at 70 degrees. The cavity is then filled with the wax with the help of accurate pressure. Remove the wax piece after it has cooled. Wax is used primarily because it retains its shape during the moulding process, and therefore produces excellent results. The next step involves in placing the wax piece on the casting tree and investing the flask. When all pieces have been correctly placed, a flask is place over the tree which is covered by a packing tape. The investment solution we use is similar to Plaster of Paris. For one and half kg of powder, 750 ml of water is required. The mixture is then vacuumed in order to suck the air which is present in the mixture. It is necessary to remove the air for a perfect finished output. The mixture is poured in the can and left for three hours to set. After cooling, remove the tape and the base and dewax the tree using dewaxer. Once the wax is melted, you are left with the cavity. Place the entire flask in a kiln set to approximately 1100 degrees. This will harden the mould leaving a hollow chamber in the center of the cast jewellery mould. Place your metal of choice in a pouring crucible, and then melt it inside a foundry. The melting temperature and time will be determined by the type of metal you are using. Pour liquid metal from the pouring crucible into the mould through the tunnel left by the melted wax support stick. Again, vacuum in order to suck the air. Metal will then take the shape of the cavity. Allow the metal to cool and once the metal has set, the ring/ jewellery is cut off the tree. The jewellery is now created and is further polished and finished.” %% Coming to the technology, Amol Kharote, Director, Amol Dies says, “There are various types and kinds of machinery that is used in jewellery business. Mainly Jewellery Casting machine, jewellery making and jewellery polishing machine. Private and big brands now-a-days use the ‘CNC machine’ which is a new and advanced technology. This machine is basically a computerized jewellery making machine. The duration of making a piece depends on the type and style. If it’s a simple and easy-to-make design then it can be made in hours or even days.” “In the local jewellery manufacturing it is observed that very few producers are using the current technology and that also for gold and platinum jewellery manufacturing. There is latest technology available in Lasers, Rapid Prototyping and polish related processes. The actual technology of the polishing of jewellery used in India is ages old and not at par with the global standards even in gold and platinum,” adds Nickunj Shah.%%

Generally, the same machine is used for all alloys. Only different casting machine is used for platinum since the melting point for platinum is higher than other alloys. Different machines are used for artificial jewellery as well due to production capacity and other aspects, says Rajan Mistry. On this, Nickunj Shah shares the details, “For platinum jewellery, different set of machines mentioned above are required for manufacturing. For gold and silver jewellery, making is similar and all the machines for this range are common till the plating stag. For brass jewellery, special methods are employed in brass casting and the materials and consumables are different from those used in gold /silver. For stone setting, investment powders and burnouts as well as chemical treatment after casting is different for stone setting jewellery compared to the plain gold jewellery. %% Coming to the the important aspects considered before producing the jewellery and the difficulties faced during production, Nickunj Shah says, “ Important aspects considered are : Jewellery is highly regional dependent so one has to plan and target the right product. One has to plan his space requirements after deciding his production capacity. One has to develop and train the required workforce required for the manufacturing of jewellery. Acquiring the right technology for efficient production and market proximity and labour availability is also vital.” In the competitive market, difficulties faced are, “Knowledge of process, metal losses to be maintained to stay in competitive prices, metal porosity, metal hardness, getting the required metal finish and aesthetics of jewellery and material procurement.”%% At the end, talking about duration for making the jewellery, Nickunj Shah sums up, “There are many types of duration periods as per the product required. Deadline for mass produced jewellery is generally 30 to 60 days. For Designer Jewellery the period is also around 45 to 80 days. For customized jewellery in local requirement the time duration is 15 days. All these go with some hot orders which have to be produced within two to three days as per the requirement of customers.”%%

From hand-made jewellery to casting to CNC, jewellery machines have come long-way. With the changing times, technology for making jewellery has evolved drastically. To know the process, technology, hindrances and more that goes into creating the shimmering jewellery, Kunjal Karaniya and Neha Parulkar spoke to few machine manufacturers and experts. %% Body: Jewellery making requires various machineries. Mainly a Vulcanizer, wax injector, three-in-one casting machine, steam dewaxer, burnout furnace, magnetic polishing machine, ultrasonic cleaner, plating machine and a stamping machine. The procedure for making jewellery is complex, but easy, once the steps involved are learnt. On this, Ashokbhai Parmar, Director, Gurukrupa informs, “The procedure for making a jewellery piece involves in creating a rubber mould based on the design. Wax pieces are made out of the rubber. After the mould is ready, the mould is then places in the casting machine and molten metal is poured in the mould followed by the removal of wax. The piece is then created and sent for polishing.” %% Nickunj Shah, Director, Nickunj Eximp Entp Pvt Ltd shares about the various machines used, “There are machines for every process and step of jewellery making : Rapid Prototyping; Vulcanizers; Wax Injectors; Investment Mixers; Casting machines; Burnout Furnaces; Stone Setting Machines; Micro-setting setups; Filing and Polishing Machines (dry and wet); Grinding Machines; Media Finish Machines (Barrel finish); Electro Stripping and Plating Machines; Labelling and Certifying Machines; Laser Markers, Welders, Engravers and Cutters.” %% S.K Das, Director, Stoker Concast explains in brief, “There are two kinds of jewellery, handmade and machine made. Handmade jewellery making is a traditional art where technicians blow air and the concentrated flame is higher than the melting temperature of the metal. Machines on the other hand make the work easy. The basic is the casting machine. The duration for making a pieces or pieces depends on company to company. Generally, every company or jewellery brand makes 25 to 50 kgs jewellery per day. It also depends on the gold purchased from RBI each day. Within three days complicated jewellery should be ready if the production is around 25kgs per day. If a piece includes precious gems and stones then it takes a little longer.”%%

Rajan Mistry, Director, Rajson International explains the procedure involved in detail, “It starts by choosing a model for casting. A model is a piece of jewellery that you want to make a mould out of. Then you make a rubber mould using a model. You can purchase an unvulcanized rubber moulding compound at local arts and crafts supply store. Press your model into a suitably sized mass of the rubber moulding compound. Subject the rubber mould to heat according to instructions in order to vulcanize the rubber. We generally vulcanize for 45 minutes and set the thermostat at 150 degree. A knife is then used to cut the model out of the mould. After its cut open, the model is removed and what is left is the ‘cavity’. Then we inject the mould with melted wax. It is essential that the correct pressures are applied and it is timed accurately to ensure that optimal results are achieved. We melt wax at 70 degrees. The cavity is then filled with the wax with the help of accurate pressure. Remove the wax piece after it has cooled. Wax is used primarily because it retains its shape during the moulding process, and therefore produces excellent results. The next step involves in placing the wax piece on the casting tree and investing the flask. When all pieces have been correctly placed, a flask is place over the tree which is covered by a packing tape. The investment solution we use is similar to Plaster of Paris. For one and half kg of powder, 750 ml of water is required. The mixture is then vacuumed in order to suck the air which is present in the mixture. It is necessary to remove the air for a perfect finished output. The mixture is poured in the can and left for three hours to set. After cooling, remove the tape and the base and dewax the tree using dewaxer. Once the wax is melted, you are left with the cavity. Place the entire flask in a kiln set to approximately 1100 degrees. This will harden the mould leaving a hollow chamber in the center of the cast jewellery mould. Place your metal of choice in a pouring crucible, and then melt it inside a foundry. The melting temperature and time will be determined by the type of metal you are using. Pour liquid metal from the pouring crucible into the mould through the tunnel left by the melted wax support stick. Again, vacuum in order to suck the air. Metal will then take the shape of the cavity. Allow the metal to cool and once the metal has set, the ring/ jewellery is cut off the tree. The jewellery is now created and is further polished and finished.” %% Coming to the technology, Amol Kharote, Director, Amol Dies says, “There are various types and kinds of machinery that is used in jewellery business. Mainly Jewellery Casting machine, jewellery making and jewellery polishing machine. Private and big brands now-a-days use the ‘CNC machine’ which is a new and advanced technology. This machine is basically a computerized jewellery making machine. The duration of making a piece depends on the type and style. If it’s a simple and easy-to-make design then it can be made in hours or even days.” “In the local jewellery manufacturing it is observed that very few producers are using the current technology and that also for gold and platinum jewellery manufacturing. There is latest technology available in Lasers, Rapid Prototyping and polish related processes. The actual technology of the polishing of jewellery used in India is ages old and not at par with the global standards even in gold and platinum,” adds Nickunj Shah.%%

Generally, the same machine is used for all alloys. Only different casting machine is used for platinum since the melting point for platinum is higher than other alloys. Different machines are used for artificial jewellery as well due to production capacity and other aspects, says Rajan Mistry. On this, Nickunj Shah shares the details, “For platinum jewellery, different set of machines mentioned above are required for manufacturing. For gold and silver jewellery, making is similar and all the machines for this range are common till the plating stag. For brass jewellery, special methods are employed in brass casting and the materials and consumables are different from those used in gold /silver. For stone setting, investment powders and burnouts as well as chemical treatment after casting is different for stone setting jewellery compared to the plain gold jewellery. %% Coming to the the important aspects considered before producing the jewellery and the difficulties faced during production, Nickunj Shah says, “ Important aspects considered are : Jewellery is highly regional dependent so one has to plan and target the right product. One has to plan his space requirements after deciding his production capacity. One has to develop and train the required workforce required for the manufacturing of jewellery. Acquiring the right technology for efficient production and market proximity and labour availability is also vital.” In the competitive market, difficulties faced are, “Knowledge of process, metal losses to be maintained to stay in competitive prices, metal porosity, metal hardness, getting the required metal finish and aesthetics of jewellery and material procurement.”%% At the end, talking about duration for making the jewellery, Nickunj Shah sums up, “There are many types of duration periods as per the product required. Deadline for mass produced jewellery is generally 30 to 60 days. For Designer Jewellery the period is also around 45 to 80 days. For customized jewellery in local requirement the time duration is 15 days. All these go with some hot orders which have to be produced within two to three days as per the requirement of customers.”%%