An industry which was born with the city itself, the gems and jewellery sector in Jaipur is steeped in history and heritage that stand the test of time. The industry might’ve witnessed several changes, but has dearly held on to its traditions and is still a trendsetter in anything handcrafted says Vijetha Rangabashyam

Jaipur is where India’s clichés converge - edifices in every shade you can think of, cows on the street, beautiful palaces and courtyards, pristine lakes, narrow alleys, locals dressed in bright coloured clothing and what have you? It is one of those princely cities, which has dearly held on to its royal heritage and rich, age-old craftsmanship, which have been acquired and learnt from various parts of the world. The people of Jaipur in general have a proclivity to being crafty and artful – it is something one inherits, when one is born in this historic land. Not many people know that Jaipur is one of the first planned cities in this country, all thanks to the visionary Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the founder of this beautiful place. When you type ‘Jaipur history’ on Google, it is unlikely that you won’t run into his name. Some quixotic man he must’ve been, to dream and think of building a city that has art and craft in its every heart beat. An arid terrain was built not only palaces and royal homes but also workshops were artisans can hone their skills and thrive. An avid gemstone and jewellery aficionado, people say that he brought around eleven families from different parts of India who were known for their artistic predisposition in jewellery most of whom are still continuing the seeds sown by the Maharaja.

Jaipur is one of the finest centers for coloured gemstones in the world where over 300 variety of coloured precious and semiprecious stones are cut with skilled artisans for centuries. The industry is filled with players who have been cutting and polishing gemstones generation after generation and also relatively new entrants. “We had a lot of garnets in and around Jaipur and there was lot of cutting and polishing of garnets done in those days and gradually jewellers started bringing emeralds and other precious stones because they had the skill. The skill to cut and polish gemstones is something Jaipurites must’ve invented on their own as lot of garnets was found in Rajasthan. In fact Maharani Gayatri Devi once mentioned to me that there was costume jewellery and synthetic stone work being done in City Palace during Ram Singh’s period. So, synthetic stones also flourished in Jaipur,” said Sudhir Kasliwal of Gem Palace.

From emeralds to tanzanites, morganites, citrines and opals, the colour stone market in India was worth US$420 million in 2018 and Jaipur contributes to over 90 per cent in the business as most cut and polished colour stones are exported from Jaipur. “It all started with amber. There was a point when Jaipur was the only place that could cut and polish amber. Even today, the city I think exports the most number of cut and polished ambers. Cutting ambers needs a lot of skill and I am not just talking about cutting and polishing but also taking the impurities out of the rock and sawing it needs great skill and technique,” said Rajiv Jain of Sambhav Gems. Eventually, a lot of stones were imported into the city like emeralds and tanzanites. A lot of other commercial stones used to be cut in Jaipur earlier but owing to price competitiveness, only very few people are still involved in the same. However, the stones that are extremely difficult to cut still come to Jaipur. The cutting and polishing of gemstones has been happening in Jaipur since the city’s establishment itself and that is how old the industry is. The best portion of a stone becomes a faceted stone and the second best becomes a cabochon. Carving of gemstones is again a unique skill that Jaipur acquired from the Mughals and stones that can’t be carved are made into beads and those that can’t be made into beads become uncut stones. Jaipur leaves no stone unturned, literally. “In Jaipur, we work on the principle of using every part of the gemstone,” adds Rajiv Jain

The emergence of television shopping networks has played a huge role in the enhancement of the coloured gemstone business in Jaipur. A demand for unique precious and semiprecious stones from all over the world has precipitated the industry further with a combination of artisans from cottage industries and hi-tech manufacturing facilities working on bulk orders they receive year on year. Today, Jaipur is home to more than 100 cut and polished colour gemstone manufacturing units (source: GIA). Though Jaipur may have lost its business to China and Thailand when it comes to stones that require mechanised work, the city is still known for its adeptness when it comes to cutting emeralds. Gemfields Zambian emerald auction that takes place in Jaipur has really played a huge role in giving the emerald colour stone market a boost in the city. The reason how and why we came to acquire the skill of cutting and polishing gemstones is a little hazy but Samit Bordia of Samit Emeralds seems to believe that it could’ve been because the Mughals and even the Nizams’ of Hyderabad love for jewellery and emeralds in particular. “In the olden times, the carving on emeralds, which we locally call taktis were very popular where Mughal inspired motifs or phrases in Urdu were carved on the stone,” says Bordia. Majority of the gemstone cutting and polishing business is confined to the walled city of Jaipur that includes Johari Bazaar and Chaura Rasta. Bordia operates from Chaura Rasta with at least 20 artisans who cut and polish emeralds, majority of which get exported to the U.S. “The television shopping network has played a very important role. Demand for all the lowgrade precious stones in the last 20 years has come from TV marketing and the quantities, which used to be exported were huge. Although now it has drastically deteriorated,” adds Bordia.

Over the last few years, Jaipur has lost a chunk of its colour stone business to China especially with stones that need machine-like precession, like citrines, peridots and even zircons. At one point, Tirucharapalli used to be the center for cutting and polishing zircons, but the industry has been wiped out. However, where human skill is required, like with emeralds, Jaipur is still number one. Sri Lanka is only good with cutting and polishing sapphires and Thailand has been cutting and polishing rubies, which they have been sourcing from Burma for years now, as for China, they are known for cutting cheaper quality stones. “To a large extent, even today, Jaipur cuts every kind of stone. What other countries are doing recently, we have been doing for ages,” adds Rajiv Jain. The bead industry used to be with Jaipur and Cambay used to be known for producing cheaper quality beads and now it is all taken over by China. “Colombian emeralds get cut and polished in Israel. The Israelis are very good with technology. But after a point, technology can’t replace human skill and they lost a lot of their business because of pricecompetitiveness. We learnt a lot from Israelis, we are fast learners,” adds Bordia.

There has been talk of opening an exclusive gem bourse in Jaipur for a long time. The MoU was signed recently. The bourse will house 2,000 offices for gemstone manufacturers and traders as well as brokers’ chambers, a trading hall, a Special Notified Zone, Customs Clearance Centre, exhibition hall, and display shops among other facilities. “Anything that consolidates the market and centralized is good. But I don’t think it will make a big difference. As it is the industry is confined to the walled city. Putting it all together may help but not dramatically,” adds Bordia.

The rising popularity of Jadau

Meenakari known more commonly as enameling to the rest of the world is one of the greatest gifts given to India by the Mughals. Originally invented in Persia, the Mughals carried this beautiful craft with them to India and popularized it. ‘Mina’ in Persian refers to Heaven’s shade of azure and is the feminine derivative of ‘Minoo’. A Persian art, Meenakari spread to different parts of the world, but India, particularly Jaipur, has made the art what it is today. The art has found its home in Jaipur since Raja Man Singh I brought the enamellers from Lahore to Jaipur. The exceptional skill has been since passed from one generation to another in Jaipur and even today only a very few artisan families are familiar with the technique. The mélange of Meenakari and Kundan, popularly known as kundan-meena has such great demand amidst brides today. Jadau jewellery is again

an age-old craft ubiquitous in Jaipur, but it was brought to India by the Mughals. Today, every jeweller specializing in Jadau pieces have their distinct style. It involves heating of pure gold until its malleable, creating a frame, filling lac in the empty frame and then embedding stones as per the design. “It is all handcrafted work even today. Now cad machines have come and the whole scene has changed but good quality meenakari is still done by skilled craftsman in Jaipur. We are not using ultrasonic machines and all of that – we do everything

by hand, which is why nobody can beat us in kundan meena, because it entails handwork. World over machines have been replaced but with kundan meena, it is handcrafted skill one hundred percent,” adds Kasliwal. Bollywood of course has played a significant role in popularizing this art form with films like Jodhaa Akbar and Padmaavat. However, jadau pieces have always been popular. “Bikaner artisans had migrated to Jaipur in search of livelihood. In the present times, Bollywood has played a big role in popularizing jadau. But it was always popular, since independence, and got further provenance after Bollywood. For the last twenty years or so bridal parties have been coming to Jaipur to buy jewellery,” adds Surana. In India, traditionally stones were set in jadau style even in the south. “Kundan is the purest form of gold. The art of setting flat stones with kundan is called kundankari. When I joined the business, we could never think of making kundan in 14 or 16 ct gold, it had to be the purest form of gold almost 23 ct,” adds Kasliwal. Brides from all over India prefer wearing jadau for their weddings because of its royal appeal and elaborate craftsmanship. The cost factor has also played a role in its popularity. Quips Kasliwal, “You can get a full bridal jadau set in 2 lakhs and you can’t imagine buying a full diamond set for the same amount of money.” Of course, celebrity weddings also have majorly contributed in the rising demand of jadau jewellery.

Weathering Changes

One of the sprightliest streets in Jaipur is Johari Bazaar. The area is buzzing with activity and is full of energy; the structures painted in shades of orange and pink makes the alley even livelier. At any given time, there are brokers selling colour gemstones in packets on the street. On the other hand, there are showrooms boasting of finely handcrafted jewellery using ancient techniques. It is a onestop shop for bridal parties who are in the lookout for jewellery exclusive to Jaipur as well as textiles and fabrics. According to history, four bazaars were planned in the city during its establishment, one of which was Johari Bazaar. “Even today Johari Bazaar is just the same. Of course with population, there has been some impact but the old world charm is very much intact,” adds Surana. Over the years, traffic has increased considerably and not much has been done to control the same he adds. As a result, many stores have moved out of Johari Bazaar. “Traffic has to be regulated and the market will flourish further. The market has always been a center for jewellery and gemstones but as the industry developed, other bastions for jewellery started coming up. This is a natural progression.” The real estate in Johari Bazaar is considerably higher compared to other newly developed areas in Jaipur. Kamal Kothari of Super Gems and Jewels has been operating in Johari Bazaar for over forty years. “This place was created exquisitely for jewellers and hence it was named Johari. In the olden days jewellers from outside of Jaipur would come and work here. Even now, the front office is always the store but the back area is where the gemstones are cut and polished and jewellery is crafted,” said Kothari. The hub for jewellery may have changed over the years with time; traffic and increase in population and this has led to many jewellers seeking other prime areas to set up shops like C-Scheme, JLN Marg and M.I. Road. “Jewellers might have moved out but still many of them operate from Johari Bazaar. In fact, several companies still have their manufacturing units here apart from opening more offices/stores in other parts of the city,” added Kothari. Different forms of jewellery techniques were passed down from one generation to the next. The skill was inherited from father to son. Earlier, people never went to any institute to learn the craftsmanship, because they were born into this. But people who are not traditionally from this field are learning the art. “There are a lot of new entrants. Which is a good thing. So th new brands are setting shops elsewhere. Johari Bazaar is getting congested as well. When we had our store in M.I. Road, there were hardly 2-3 stores. Now every second shop that opens there is a jewellery store. M.I. Road I would say is the Bond Street of Jaipur,” adds Kasliwal.

Competition & Embracing Change

A well-known center for colour stone and a growing hub of jewellery with history that is as old as the city itself – how does Jaipur compare to other hubs like China and Thailand? The city has lost some of its business to China because the industry as such has not changed with time. “We don’t focus enough on R & D. Manufacturers are cutting, polishing and selling but no R&D takes place. China is very good with R&D,” added Rajiv Jain. There is a dire need to also bring in mechanised processes in manufacturing. “Someone recently visited China and told me that if we don’t pull up our socks, we will lose what is left with us to China. They are highly advanced and are extremely good in R&D,” adds Kasliwal.

Also, to a large extent the market has been diluted owing to too many players. “The biggest problem we face is competition amongst ourselves. We try to cut our margins and disrupt all the cycles of payments etc. If you look at Thailand, every household in the Chanthaburi area deals with treating rubies. The technique they use is still a secret and if it leaks, the industry there is over. You have to go to Chanthaburi to see their rubies and buy them. So they dictate the ruby market. Similarly, if we remain united and not compete with each other, our potential will be much higher and we would be worth so much more,” adds Bordia. There is the fear of losing skills and craftsmanship with the older generations. “What is needed is a good training institution for traditional jewellery. The skill is passed on from father to son and since it is very laborious, we are afraid that this generation will lose interest in this profession. It is high time we have an institute dedicated to the training of kundan jewellery,” adds Surana.

The Export Angle

Export of gems and jewellery in Jaipur began in the year 1914. The industry really prospered between 1914 and 1974. In 1937, Maharaja Man Singh imposed a duty of Rs 1-9-0 Per Rs. 100 on jewels. Naturally, the jewellery trade was the badly affected by this duty. So, all the jewellers individually went to the authorities and requested them to reconsider their decision. However, nothing fruitful could come out. So, ultimately, they formed the “Jeweller Association” in the year 1928 A.D. and Seth Banji Lal Tholia was made the first president of this association. According to the new agreement to which, the association, was made responsible for collecting RS 16,000 per year form jewellers and depositing it in the treasury. All the traders were satisfied with this agreement. This annual amount was changed year after year according to changing conditions of the trade (source inflibnet.ac.in). Jaipur holds the monopoly in jewellery in India. As of 2017, total value of exports from Jaipur was estimated at around 1500 crores. Around 80 percent of the players deal in cutting and polishing of colour gemstones while the remaining 20 percent deal in jewellery manufacturing. The total value of exports from Jaipur, is estimated around 1500 crores. Jaipur contributes more than 60% of the total gems and jewellery exports from India. There are more than 100 active exporters and 1500 sub contractors at Jaipur.

Special Economic Zone (SEZ) was established in Jaipur in Sitapura almost twenty years ago and this has done wonders for the industry. The facilities available in SEZ have certainly increased productivity but it has not led to the change in the manufacturing techniques as such. “The only difference being in Sitapura is that if you are only exporting and importing, then there is an advantage with duty. The taxation is the same,” adds Rajiv Jain. Today the world over, Jaipur is known as a gemstone hub. Owing to forward integration and so many jewellery factories cropping up, the city has become a jewellery hub as well. “The industry has changed completely for the good after SEZ. Work entailing exports has become easier and economical. It has played a big role in putting Jaipur on the world map,” says Vijay Chordia of Valentine Jewellery who has had a manufacturing unit in SEZ for 13 years. The company employs around 500

workers to manufacture silver jewellery with precious and semiprecious stones. Big buyers from showrooms purchase jewellery from companies in SEZ. “EPIP units supply a lot to the stores and ultimately they get sold to foreigners. Colour stone is more in demand than diamonds when it comes to exports because it is cost effective,” adds Chordia. Jaipur supplies gemstones to big as well as small brands and one of its biggest strengths lies in its skilled, cheap manpower. “We are in EPIP zone where we can supply to the Indian market as well as foreign markets. Being in SEZ has its own benefits for those who are into hundred percent exports as they have tax benefits on machinery and raw material,” adds Akhil Dhaddha of Gem Plaza, which is known for its modern, cutting edge jewellery in 18 k gold in precious and semiprecious stones.

Tourism has greatly contributed to the growth of this sector. Indians as well as foreigners flock to Jaipur to shop and many brides visit the city in the look out for jadau jewellery. “Tourism has helped a lot, in fact a bulk of the business is by tourists and they come only for kundan jewellery. Foreigners like lightweight and some of them like the art of kundan and they buy that also,” adds Surana. With more tourists coming into the city, Jaipur has also witnessed a surge in the opening of jewellery stores. “Tourism might help because of all these showrooms have cropped up. But that is not the reason why Jaipur as an industry has grown when it comes to this sector. More tourists come to Udaipur than Jaipur. People looking for a certain kind of jewellery exclusive to Jaipur come here and international buyers come here. What really helped is the exposure of the Indian trade in exhibitions all over the world,” adds Bordia. Brands like Amrapali and Gem Plaza have traversed borders and made the “Jaipur” tag very desirable among foreigners too. In fact, for these brands most of their business comes from tourists.