It was here that poetry and aesthetics walked hand in hand with the world’s finest and rarest collections of contemporary jewels. The prestigious Place Vendôme and beyond, was lit up with these out-of-the-world dazzlers.
Cindy Chao’s Party Collection
Cindy Chao, who founded her namesake brand Cindy Chao The Art Jewel in 2004, unveiled several new pieces for the Black Label collection, her most prestigious line, with just 36 one-of- a-kind pieces created each year. The Aurora Butterfly Brooch, which features extraordinary triangular rose-cut diamonds, pigeon’s blood Burmese rubies, and beautiful gradations of deep-blue sapphires layered with glowing yellow diamonds deserves a special mention. Also on view is the Emerald Sculptural Bangle, featuring an extraordinary 7.61-carat heart-shaped Colombian emerald; and her Damask Rose Brooch crafted using an 18th-century wax sculpting technique.
Cindy’s creative legacy from her father who was a sculptor and grandfather who was an architect sets her apart from other jewelers. The three-dimensional creations that she displays are ones to watch-out for.
Dior et Moi
Showcasing 39 new designs, Dior’s new Dior et Moi high-jewellry collection is a mix of the most extraordinary and precious stones in avant-garde colours and combinations. The pieces are crafted with semi- precious and precious stones such as diamonds, emeralds, and blue and pink sapphires. And speaking of colour, the new line has plenty of it. The house’s artistic director Victoire de Castellane brought together unconventional shades, proportions, and shapes resulting in a unique and eye- catching collection.
The earliest mention of a “toi et moi” ring dates back to the end of the 18th century when Napoleon offered a gold ring that featured a diamond and a sapphire to his first wife. Then it was John Kennedy who offered Jacqueline Bouvier a gorgeous emerald and diamond ring. The main feature of the “toi et moi” designs is the presence of two stones next to each other.
Fashionably set, lacquer appears in 15 unexpected colours and is sprayed on brushed gold. Diamonds and emeralds in an assortment of cuts are paired with red spinels, tourmalines, and turquoise—but it’s the glittering opal that takes away all the credit, as seen in this open ring.
Black Label Masterpiece IX “Damask Rose Brooch,” from 2019
The Tweed Collection by Chanel
Tweed has been an integral part of Chanel ever since Coco Chanel transported it from the world of menswear and British aristocracy into women’s fashion during the 1920s. Under the direction of Virginie Viard, who took over as creative director last year, the collection includes 45 pieces crafted with a variety of precious stones in interlocking patterns.
Patrice Leguéreau, director of the Chanel fine jewelry studio, has created a new interpretation of Coco Chanel’s classic motif of tweed. Gold, platinum, and onyx appear handspun to compose patterns of twists, grooves, and chess boards. Creating a true fabric with jewellery, the stones and pearls appear sewn together rather than set.
Chopard’s exquisite gemstones and diamond earrings
Chopard presented an assortment of precious and rare stones from around the world. On view in the vitrines were beautiful unheated sapphire, a pear-shaped pigeon’s blood ruby and a Colombian emerald weighing a staggering 61.79 carats, and a vibrant turquoise-hued 34.63-carat Paraiba tourmaline.
This original assortment of jewels was composed by Caroline Scheufele, co-president and artistic director of the house. Four diamonds exhibited the highest degrees of purity imaginable for a diamond: grade D-flawless and D-internally flawless, all of type IIA. Chopard also presented diamonds and among the standouts were earrings made of four D-flawless and D-internally flawless diamonds, all type IIA, which is highest degree of clarity.
Plume de Paon Question Mark necklace set with a 12.41-carat pink tourmaline on pink gold
Louis Vuitton’s 1,758 carats uncut diamond
L ouis Vuitton made a major statement at Paris Haute Couture Week by presenting an exceptional rough diamond of 1,758 carats. Possibly, the most exciting news heard around the world in the category of jewels was the discovery of the second largest rough diamond in the history – and its acquisition by Louis Vuitton. Counting at 1758 carats, it was discovered in the Lucara Diamond Corporation’s 100 per cent owned Karowe mine in Botswana on April 19th 2019. It’s called Sewelô which means “rare find” in the Setswana language and is the size of a tennis ball, measuring at 83mm x 62mm x 46mm and weighing 352 grams. As the proud owners of the diamond, Louis Vuitton is planning to use its extraordinary variety to create bespoke-cut diamonds, as directed by Francesca Amfitheatrof, the brand’s artistic director for jewellery and watches. Interestingly, the largest rough diamond ever to be discovered was Cullinan, at 3106 carats, in 1905, which has since been transformed into British Crown Jewels.
Point d’Interrogation by Boucheron
The eight new Point d’Interrogation necklaces by Claire Choisne, creative director of Boucheron, have an impressive elegance. The seams, updates, and precious metalwork that light up a masterful, diamond-studded peacock feather necklace call back to trends from the end of the 19th century. The same level of expertise is visible through the Lierre de Paris necklace, whose animated leaves are set with emerald (which, in itself, is a feat that connoisseurs will appreciate).
Here’s a piece with history and fine aesthetics meeting in curls at the neck of a fashionista. Boucheron’s original question mark necklace dates to 1879. During the Paris Haute Couture Week, it gets a bold update with a series of eight dazzling new pieces conceived by Claire. The pieces of this new collection include a version with a cluster of sculptural hydrangeas coated in iridescent mother-of-pearl and one with a shimmering set of golden wheat stalks. The most elegant version features a simple line of diamonds with 11 cultured pearls.