PRET by Couture India 2025, held between February 26, 2025, and February 28, 2025, at the Leela Ambience Convention Hotel, New Delhi, presented a vibrant tapestry of ready-to-wear collections, showcasing everything, from delicate diamond necklaces and statement rings with vibrant gemstones, to contemporary interpretations of classic jadau work. The event reinforced how India's fine jewellery industry is expanding its creative and commercial horizons, embracing a broader spectrum of consumer desires.

For years, the bridal category — with its grand gold sets and intricate diamond suites — has been the hallmark of the Indian jewellery market. Today, alongside this enduring tradition, an exciting new narrative is unfolding. The event highlighted how jewellers are innovating with lightweight, versatile designs that cater to diverse occasions, meeting the evolving demands of modern consumers, while preserving the timeless appeal of Indian craftsmanship.

The new economics of adornment

As gold prices remain high, manufacturers showcased collections that balanced lightweight design with striking visual appeal, demonstrating how innovation can meet the need for accessible luxury. Many exhibitors presented pieces that, despite their reduced weight, maintained a strong visual impact — offering both retailers and consumers designs that are practical and desirable.

Vineet Vasa of Lotus Jewellery, Rajkot, observed that rising gold prices have influenced market trends, saying, “As gold prices continue to rise, end consumers have been showing a preference for lightweight, smaller sets. We offer a comprehensive range of 22ct and 18ct Indo-Italian style pieces, crafted using advanced laser and CNC technology. Retailers have been showing a preference for this kind of jewellery because it meets the current market demand, while offering good value for customers.”

The focus on lighter, smarter designs was echoed by Anand Ranawat of Sanghvi Dhanrupji Devaji & Company, Jaipur. “Our coloured stone-dominated rings and all-diamond necklaces have been very popular. The necklaces are lightweight, unique, and budget-friendly, offering a great fit for both younger and older women. The Zambian emerald and kunzite rings, with their distinct tones, make great cocktail pieces that are also easy on the wallet. Retailers should consider stocking these pieces because our design language stands out in the market,” he said.

Rather than simply minimising metal usage, manufacturers are introducing fresh design approaches, particularly through the use of vibrant coloured gemstones. The collections at PRET by Couture India showcased how coloured diamond and gemstones are becoming centrepieces in design, not merely as cost-saving measures, but as a creative choice that aligns with current fashion trends.

Colour Revolution

This represents both aesthetic evolution and economic adaptation. Vijay Chordia, Valentine Jewellery, Jaipur, showed a collection where fancy-cut diamonds and vibrant coloured stones took centre stage in settings using minimal precious metal.

"The trend is shifting decisively towards fancier designs with coloured stones," Chordia noted, as he displayed a particularly striking ring where a kunzite commanded attention. "This is not just about cost — consumers are actively seeking these distinctive looks,” he said. 

Collections throughout the show featured everything from traditional favourites like emeralds and rubies, to more unexpected stones such as morganites, tanzanites, and spinels. Ranawat showcased a collection that balanced luxury with practical appeal. “These make great cocktail pieces that are also easy on the wallet. The design language stands out in the market,” he said. His collection of Zambian emerald and kunzite rings demonstrated how these gemstones can create statement pieces with relatively modest metal content, without shifting the brand's established design philosophy.

The coloured stone trend has not emerged in isolation; it coincides with a broader shift towards jewellery designed for specific occasions beyond weddings. As Indian consumers increasingly purchase fine jewellery for birthdays, anniversaries, professional milestones, and festival celebrations, the market must now also provide for distinct occasion-based categories.

Showcasing collections specifically designed for occasions, Vikas Mehta of Achal Jewels, Jaipur, said, "For PRET, we introduced a dedicated collection with rings, tops, pendants, and men's brooches. With so many festivals approaching, these pieces make excellent gifting options."

The strategic implications for retailers are significant. Rather than concentrating inventory investments primarily on wedding seasons, forward-thinking retailers are now building year-round purchasing calendars around multiple celebration moments. The approach not only makes for more revenues, but also creates more frequent customer touchpoints.

Prerna Khurana of Amritsar's Khurana Jewellery House said, "With the non-bridal season approaching, we are looking for dainty, wearable pieces suitable for everyday use. The exclusivity of this event allows me to source these pieces thoughtfully."

The term "everyday luxury" recurred frequently in conversations throughout the exhibition floor. It represents perhaps the most significant frontier in India's jewellery market — pieces designed not for special occasions, but for regular wear. This category, still nascent compared to its counterparts in Western markets, offers enormous growth potential as urban professionals seek distinctive personal adornment for the workplace and for casual settings.

The Retailer Recalibration

For retailers, PRET by Couture India offered a rare opportunity to concentrate exclusively on this non-bridal category, away from the overwhelming distractions of wedding collections. The focussed curation of the show — featuring just 150 manufacturers selected for their excellence in ready-to-wear categories — created an environment where buyers could strategically reimagine their inventory. 

Varghese Alukkas, Jos Alukkas Group, Thrissur, viewed the show through this strategic lens. "With gold prices so high, there is a growing demand for lightweight 18ct and 14ct jewellery at accessible price points," he observed, adding, "This show offers exactly that range, making it ideal for sourcing high-end and unique jewellery."

The value proposition extended beyond product sourcing to relationship building. For Anand Prakash of Abhushan Jewellers in Agra, attending his second PRET show, the networking dimension proved equally valuable. "Here you meet like-minded jewellers, people who share your vision. This networking is very important,” he said, his specific focus on coloured stone pieces aligned perfectly with the exhibition's offerings. "I came here expecting to find designs that use more real-coloured stones, and I see that the industry is on the same page,” Prakash added. 

The show also provided value for retailers developing specialized sub-brands for younger consumers. Ashraf Motiwala of Mumbai's A S Motiwala Fine Jewellery found inspiration for his brand's youth-oriented line. "Our brand, Faith by ASM, has a youthful and vibrant PRET vibe, and the show has sparked fantastic ideas and potential collaborations," he said. 

Beyond Commerce: The Knowledge Exchange

The introduction of IJ Talks — a series of insightful sessions led by business strategists and legal experts — reinforced the commitment of the event organizers to empowering the industry with more than just product innovation. By offering practical guidance on operational strategies, inventory management, and intellectual property protection, IJ Talks provided invaluable support to retailers and manufacturers looking to navigate the evolving market with confidence and foresight.

The packed session, featuring Theory of Constraints experts Prabhakar Mahadevan and Rajagopalan J from Strategy and Systems, highlighted the industry's keen interest in advanced inventory management strategies. Drawing from their experience with leading jewellery brands such as Tanishq and Malabar Gold and Diamonds, the speakers introduced proprietary tools and mathematical models designed to optimize inventory management and maximize margins. These sophisticated approaches provided attendees with practical insights on maintaining optimal stock levels across both bridal and non-bridal categories, ensuring profitability and efficiency.

Equally engaging was the legal panel discussion on copyright and design protection. Advocate Yatin Chadha and Senior Counsel Advocate Neeraj Grover from My Legal Partners outlined the critical need for safeguarding intellectual property. Their presentation addressed the challenges of design infringement, and demonstrated how robust legal frameworks can help businesses secure their designs in a competitive marketplace.

These knowledge-sharing initiatives reflected the jewellery industry's progression from traditional craftsmanship to embracing advanced business strategies. By providing retailers and manufacturers with practical tools and deep insights, PRET by Couture India reinforced its role as a catalyst for growth and innovation in the fine jewellery sector.

Sharing his insights about the event, Alok Kala, Editor and Publisher of Indian Jeweller Magazine, said, “PRET by Couture India has established itself as the most important platform for ready-to-wear fine jewellery. The strong participation this year highlights the growing significance of this category, and we are committed to fostering an ecosystem that supports both retailers and manufacturers.”

Cross-Segment Collaboration

The presence of Vimal Chand Surana, Chairman of Jaipur Jewellery Show (JJS), and Kamal Kothari, JJS Treasurer, underscored the growing recognition that India's jewellery ecosystem requires collaboration across traditional category boundaries. Their attendance signalled acknowledgment that the ready-to-wear segment has evolved from a peripheral category to a central market force.

This convergence of industry leaders from various segments — bridal specialists, traditional jewellery exhibitions, retail giants, and specialized manufacturers — created an atmosphere of forward-thinking exchange, rarely seen at more segmented industry events.

An Industry Reinvents Itself

As India's jewellery sector navigates complex economic and social changes, PRET by Couture India has emerged as both a showcase and a catalyst for transformation. The exhibition's curation across 10 distinct jewellery categories — from lightweight diamond pieces, to contemporary jadau interpretations — demonstrated the creative vitality of a segment once considered secondary to bridal collections.

For Indian Jeweller magazine, which has championed the ready-to-wear jewellery category through consistent editorial focus, and now through this dedicated exhibition platform, PRET by Couture India represents the fruition of a long-term vision. 

"This is the only event catering exclusively to this segment," noted Arpit Kala, Co-Publisher of Indian Jeweller Magazine, as the exhibition concluded its successful three-day run. “The success of this edition reflects the immense demand for non-bridal jewellery. We are proud to have provided a space where meaningful business connections were made,” he concluded. 

With BVC Logistics providing seamless logistics support, the exhibition operated with the precision and security essential for a high-value jewellery event. More importantly, it created a space where the industry could collectively imagine its future beyond traditional categories. 

As India's consumers increasingly seek jewellery not just for weddings, but for a multiplicity of occasions and self-expression, PRET by Couture India stands as both a mirror and a window, reflecting current market dynamics, while offering a clear view of what comes next.