For decades, the Pink City has been home to artisans who have mastered the art of creating exquisite kundan, polki, meenakari, thewa and silver jewellery. History has left a mark on the city, and diverse influences have shaped its jewellery industry, discovers Suneeta Kaul

Jaipur. The very name evokes a heady feeling of a bygone era, of a time when kings and queens ruled the land, royal armies clashed on the battlefield, and honour and dignity meant everything. It is also a constant reminder of the opulence and grandeur of the royal personages, and the magnificent, elaborate jewellery with which they adorned themselves.

Down the ages, Jaipur has been the meeting ground of diverse influences, ranging from Central Asia and Afghanistan, to other parts of what is now India. Right from the time when Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II founded the city of Jaipur in 1727, jewellery has been the very soul of the city. Sawai Jai Singh II is said to have invited the Surana jewellers from Delhi to Jaipur in 1735, thus laying the foundation of handcrafted gold, enamel, kundan, diamond and precious gem stone jewellery. Later, the Mughals introduced the craft of meenakari to the city, thus adding to its rich repertoire of jewellery making styles. Kundan and meenakari craftsmen had royal patronage and support, which enabled this style to flourish and take deep roots in the city.

As the centuries rolled by, the different influences and karigari styles amalgamated, resulting in truly unique heirloom jewellery. Jaipur became the crucible where exquisite jewellerymaking styles were nurtured, and where generations of craftsmen have kept the legacy alive over time. Even today, the city retains the royal touch. It has an aura, a halo of refinement, of luxury, of timelessness.In the background of this rich legacy, tradition and heritage, the Jaipur Jewellery Show (JJS), or the December Show, as it is popularly called, was started in 2003 to celebrate and commemorate the exclusive jewellery of the city, and Rajasthan as a whole. JJS has kept alive the glamour and glimmer of the jewellery industry of the city, even as it provides a platform to manufacturers, as well as retailers, to come under one roof, discover new trends in design and creativity, and expand commerce. Here’s what a cross-section of stakeholders of the gem and jewellery industry has to say about why Jaipur is the go-to destination of jewellers for sourcing raw materials and finished jewellery.

Pratap Kamath, Abaran Timeless Jewellery, Bengaluru

Jaipur is a historically significant city. Over the centuries, it has had influences from Central Asia and surrounding areas. This has also had an impact on the kind of jewellery it manufactures and sells. There is a happy blend of designs, and the designs are not totally indigenous. There is an amalgamation of influences. I have been visiting the city for the past 12- 13 years, and I can vouch for the fact that it is a centre for colour gemstones, cutting and manufacturing included. It is also an important centre for silver jewellery. JJS, held every year, is an important event in the calendar of jewellers. See, when a show happens in a place where manufacturers are already present, it becomes easy to showcase the best the city has to offer, and in the case of Jaipur, it is colour gem stones, jadau, kundan, etc. Another advantage for visitors is that they can easily make a factory visit to assess the quality for themselves. Jaipur as a city has heritage, legacy, history. It represents India, in a way, as it is part of the Golden Triangle comprising Agra, Delhi and Jaipur. It has a certain charm, an aura about it, which is very distinct. For a Bengaluru-based company such as ours, it works out very well. Bengaluru is a cosmopolitan city, with many immigrants having made it home. Demand for jadau and kundan in the city is now huge. And Jaipur is the best place for sourcing this kind of jewellery.

Supath Mahajan, Pawan Jewellers, Chandigarh

If we talk about real bridal heritage polki jewellery or gem stones, then there’sno other place than Jaipur. Jaipur is the hub of colour gemstones, and has been so since ages, not only domestically, but also globally. Ours is a designer jewellery studio, where we cater especially to bridal and royal type of jewellery, so we have to be on our toes all the time for sourcing different designs.We find Jaipur as the best destination for jadau, kundan jewellery. There are other manufacturing hubs, such as Mumbai, but there is a difference. Mumbai is about contemporary jewellery, but Jaipur is about real heritage jewellery, bridal and royal jewellery. When it comes to Jaipur, we look for splendid, queenly jewellery, mostly in polki and precious gem stones.Yet again, this time, we will be looking forward to polki jewelley, as well as jewellery with real precious gem stones.

Suken Shah, Sparsh Jewellers, Mumbai (Manufacturer)

Jaipur, for decades, has been the most sought-after destination for procuringgem stones and jewellery. It is a one-stop place to get all your requirements fulfilled. Manufacturers and traders from different parts of the world have been sourcing rough stonesfrom Jaipur for a long time now. It is also an important export centre for polished and cut gem stones. JJS, which is a trade event held in the city every year, is the third-largest show for the gems and jewellery sector of India. Buyers come to this show with a mindset of buying polki products. Sparsh is into fusion polki jewellery, and JJS helps us to tap new clients. It is a big revenue generator for our company. We have acquired many clients over the years, who have been giving us regular business round the year. Jaipur is a really special place. The warmth and hospitality of the Pink city undoubtedly differentiates it from Mumbai. Also, the ease with which business is done, and the lifestyle, makes it very distinct. So, if you want jadau or meenakari work, you need to go to Jaipur. We should be thankful to the city, as it has put us on the world map.

Nidhish Lotia, Neetti by Nitin Gems and Jewels, Mumbai (Manufacturer)

Every human being gets attracted to colour. And Jaipur is a very colourful place, so naturally, it is a great destination for us in the jewellery industry, particularly for sourcing colour gemstones. Jaipur is really the hub of colour stones. There is no place to beat it, and there is no second choice. The Jaipur colour stones are very distinct, anyone will be able to spot that a particular stone is from Jaipur, it has an aura around it, a traditional touch. The jadau work, the meenakari work of Jaipur is fabulous. No place in India can replicate it. And when it comes to JJS, people are attracted to a lot of things. The culture, the warmth of the city, the weather, the comfort, the accessibility, the food – everything is great! It puts you in a great mood, and you really feel like indulging yourself and buying a lot of stuff. We go to sell as well as buy. Jaipur, as a land, gives you positive vibes.

Vivek Agrawal, Alankar Jewellers, Jabalpur, MP

According to me, Jaipur is the Mecca of all kinds of kundan, colour gem stone, and studded jewellery because of a mix of three things. Firstly, having an experienced and settled set-up of the finest of karigars; secondly, having the biggest mandi for raw material availability; and thirdly,manufacturers striving to give something new to the country every year, with innovation in designing, styles, colours, etc. We, as retailers, are very passionate about the trade, and strive to bring and sell the best designs every year. This means that from generic to exclusive, whatever clients look for in jewellery, we understand their taste and preferences. And a huge part of the demand is catered to by manufacturers of Jaipur. We are also very enthusiastic about the JJS show, as it helps us to fulfil the requirements of our clients, and enables us to try something new every year. Although much of the volume of our trade doesn’t come from jadau jewellery, we try to provide customers with options in jadau in every style and category, and so, from kundan to diamond to polki, and from semi-precious to navaratan, we look for each and everything that the show has to offer. In the end, what I want to say is that there is no place quite like Jaipur!

Vaibhav Goyal, Akshay Jewellers, Bhopal

Jaipur is the place for kundan and polki manufacturing. It has become a ritual and a custom for retailers to procure polki jewellery from Jaipur. It is an excellent platform for sourcing both raw materials for jewellery, as well as finished jewellery, particularly colour gemstones, the rajwada style kundan and polki. The craftsmanship of the city is unique, and of excellent quality. We get a wide range of colour gemstones. Open setting polki jewellery of Jaipur is the best. We have been going to JJS for the past six to seven years, and we find it a great event. The arrangements are good, there is ample parking space, the halls are open, there is plenty of choice, and we get all the time in the world to explore various designs.

Karan Garodia, Sanskriti Jewels, Mumbai (Manufacturer)

Jaipur is the world capital for colour gemstones; it is a non-detachable part of the colour gemstone jewellery. The city is a must-visit place for anyone who is in the gemstone jewellery business. It has a royal touch and feel to it. The food, the hospitality, the culture, the people – all come together to make it a great place to visit for sourcing raw materials for jadau and colour gemstone jewellery. The rich heritage of the city is the icing on the cake. I would say it is a complete package. Even though there are other jewellery manufacturing hubs, Mumbai, for instance, but the charm that Jaipur has can’t be found anywhere else. Mumbai is proactive and very professional. But Jaipur has a vibrant culture. We are into colour gemstone-based couture diamond jewellery. Anyone interested in colour stones, new creations and unique designs cannot skip Jaipur. And so, we make it a point to visit it every year.

Sumeet Anand, Punjabi Saraf Jewellers, Indore, MP

Jaipur has very proactive manufacturers and suppliers who understand the product and the Indian market in depth. They have global experience, and have imbibed lessons from international networking and exporting. They think big. JJS, which takes place in Jaipur every year, adds to the charm of the city. It is a very important event in the calendar of those who are more into bridal, couture and stone-studded jewellery. Our company is very much into these categories, so it is important for us. Jaipur is very traditional, and it has a royal charm. The weather in winter is good, and it is easy to move around. The food is good too. All in all, it is a great place to visit, especially in December.

Anuj Jain, Jodhamal Kailash Chand Jain Jewellers, Meerut

Jaipur is a city with heritage and tradition. It has a long history of excellence in the manufacture of jewellery, and is the hub of colour gem stones.No wonder it is the goto destination for industry players! And JJS, December Show, is another attraction. JJS is a unique show, in that it is a B2B, as well as a B2C, event. It brings together manufacturers as well as retailers. And it is held in December, a month when the weather is great in Jaipur. All these factors make it a must-attend event. Jaipur has a laid-back style of functioning, which gives us more time to browse through the offerings. Plus, its colour gemstones are unique. You can really tell them apart from gem stones of other centres. Mumbai is good too, but the kind of stuff available there is different. This time around, I will be looking for jadau and meenakari jewellery. And anything that is unique and creative.

Vasundhara Kasaraneni, Vasundhara Diamond Roof, Hyderabad

Rajasthan is a royal place. It has a vibrant history and reminds you of kings and queens, and the jewellery they used to adorn themselves with. Jaipur, particularly, is the centre for colour gemstones. There is a particular quality about the city and its jewellery. We love Rajasthan, and its royalty, and the palaces and the bygone royal lifestyle. And I love to travel in the state -- the forts, the elephants and the palaces and the food of the city, all are great. Even though there are other places where components such as polki are cheaper, but Jaipur has an attraction that is hard to resist. Business-wise, it is a nerve centre for jewellery manufacturing. And it is very different from a city like Mumbai, where everything is a rush-rush job. Time is limited in Mumbai, and we don’t get to browse through everything. Jaipur is traditional, laid back and welcoming. It enables us to expand our territory of purchases. Overall, Jaipur is a must-visit destination for precious jewellery. And then there is JJS, which is a great event. But one thing I am not happy about is that JJS has become a B2C event. It is much better if it remains a restricted B2B event.