Indian craftsmanship is a treasure trove of artistry and skill, honed over centuries. It encompasses a variety of techniques, from intricate hand-engraving and enamel work, to the use of age-old methods like meenakari and jadau. These techniques reflect the rich cultural heritage of India, and serve as a testament to the creativity and dedication of artisans. By incorporating these traditional methods into modern designs, contemporary jewellers today aim to create unique pieces that resonate with consumers, while remaining authentic. 

Blending the Old with the New

Talking about traditional jewellery-making techniques, Siddhanth AVR, AVR Swarna Mahal, Salem, says, “Traditional techniques bring unparalleled intricacy and craftsmanship to modern designs. Techniques like filigree, meenakari, and kundan infuse each piece with cultural richness and timeless beauty.” While these techniques help keep the traditional Indian craftsmanship alive, they also ensure that the pieces created are one-of-a-kind.

Surbhi Shekhar, Manohar Lal Jewellers, Delhi, says, “Traditional artisanal techniques enhance the appeal of modern jewellery by adding uniqueness, craftsmanship, and a connection with heritage. These techniques — such as filigree, hand-engraving, and gemstone-setting — bring a tactile, personal touch to jewellery, differentiating it from mass-produced items. 

“Hand-crafted elements infuse pieces with a sense of authenticity and exclusivity, as no two pieces are exactly alike. Additionally, the artistry involved in traditional methods connects contemporary designs to cultural history, making them more meaningful for consumers who appreciate both aesthetic beauty and the stories behind the craftsmanship.” 

Incorporating traditional techniques into modern designs not only imparts a unique character to jewellery pieces, but also bestows a lasting quality upon the patterns. This craftsmanship elevates the pieces to heirloom status, ensuring they are not merely accessories, but cherished treasures meant to be passed down through generations. 

Savita Kapoor, Frontier Jewellers, Dehradun, says, “As surprising as it may sound, traditional craftsmanship is truly the call of the hour. Its profound impact on modern and trending jewellery is undeniable. Traditional craftsmanship enriches contemporary jewellery designs by infusing them with cultural significance and exceptional artistry. Each piece narrates a story, forging a connection between the wearer and their heritage.” 

This fusion has led Indian jewellers to create jewellery that was not accessible to the previous generations, thus making intricate craftsmanship now accessible and wearable in lighter, more modern designs. Rajesh Hemdev, Lachmandas Jewellers, Agra says, “One classic example of this transformation is the evolution of meena polki into open polki, successfully bridging the gap between traditional and modern jewellery. 

“This shift allows these exquisite patterns to be offered to clients in everyday formats that are lighter, more convenient to wear, and suitable for both casual outings and office environments. By adapting these timeless designs for contemporary lifestyles, we ensure that the beauty of traditional craftsmanship remains accessible and relevant.”

Key Traditional Jewellery-Making Skills Still in Use Today 

To this day, among the most cherished craftsmanship techniques in Indian jewellery are kundan, meenakari, and polki, each celebrated for their intricate artistry and profound cultural significance. Shekhar says, “Traditional skills are being preserved through artisan workshops, designer collaborations, and government-supported initiatives, such as Craftmark. Many luxury brands partner with artisans to keep these skills alive, while educational programmes ensure that the younger generation of artisans continues these traditions.” 

On the other hand, jewellers recognize that in a diverse country like India, jewellery and craftsmanship have evolved into countless forms, with each region showcasing its own distinctive style. This regional diversity reflects the age-old jewellery-making techniques unique to that area, influenced by local culture, traditions, and materials. 

Kapoor says, “There is no fixed set of traditional jewellery-making skills that is prevalent across the entire country. Each region is distinguished by specific styles and techniques, which continue to be reflected in the jewellery from that area. For instance, the jewellery-making skills still practiced in Uttarakhand include intricate stone setting, enamelling, and the art of filigree. In Punjab, the craftsmanship of jadau and traditional kundan work is highly valued, while Jaipur is renowned for its elaborate meenakari and gemstone cutting. 

“These skills have been diligently preserved through apprenticeship, workshops, and community initiatives that encourage young artisans to learn from seasoned craftsmen. We often collaborate with local artisans, ensuring that these techniques continue to thrive and evolve, enriching our jewellery collections with their timeless charm.” 

The key to keeping these traditional skills alive is not only teaching them to the younger generation, but also enhancing them with the use of technology. Siddhanth says, “In my experience skills such as granulation, hand engraving and jadau setting still thrive today. At AVR Swarna Mahal, we ensure the preservation of these techniques by working with experienced artisans, and creating workshops that pass on their skills to the next generation. Our commitment to these traditional methods keeps them alive, even as we  adapt to cater to modern tastes.” 

One might fear that while machine jewellery is being made for the masses, handcrafted jewellery might take a backseat. But jewellers clarify that in fact, the opposite is happening as the exclusive handcrafted techniques are now being looked at as rare, high jewellery collections, Hemdev explains “India's rich tradition of kaarigari is evident in its diverse jewellery styles, which reflect various art forms, and continue to evolve in modern contexts. Each region boasts its unique jewellery style; for instance, the South is renowned for temple jewellery and nakshi work. 

“To showcase the full spectrum of jewellery techniques, we collaborate with different factories across the country. The craftsmanship found in Bikaner is distinctly different from that in Kolkata or Ahmedabad, as each style is characterized by its artisanal techniques, rather than machinery. These handcrafted pieces are increasingly recognized as high luxury jewellery, embodying the artistry and cultural heritage that keep these traditions alive.” 

Navigating Trends While Revitalizing Traditional Techniques

Staying abreast of trends while modernizing traditional techniques is essential for the jewellery industry to thrive in a competitive market. Kapoor says, “Staying abreast of emerging designs in our trade requires thoughtfulness, research, experimentation, and respect for customers’ requirements. One has to be completely driven at all times. We regularly visit trade shows, network with designers, and keenly study global trends. We continuously incorporate integral artisanal craftsmanship into modern collections by blending traditional elements with contemporary designs. 

“For example, our Garhwali nath has been modernized by using lighter materials and incorporating semi-precious stones, making it suitable and comfortable for frequent wear. This fusion not only respects our roots, but also appeals to modern customers looking for unique, yet wearable pieces.” Technology plays an important role in keeping jewellers ahead of the curve. 

Says Hemdev, ”Modern technology plays a crucial role in monitoring ongoing trends. Our designers are responsible for developing new styles and creating trendsetting patterns using advanced machinery. We also prioritize budget considerations, ensuring that all creations are budget-friendly and lightweight, allowing for a broader reach of our collection." 

Some jewellers are partnering with top designers and artisans to blend artisanal craftsmanship with innovative, trendsetting collections. Siddhanth says, “We constantly research global trends while staying rooted in Indian traditions. We collaborate with leading designers and artisans to integrate artisanal craftsmanship into trendsetting collections. This fusion of old and new has resulted in pieces that resonate with a broad audience, from classic to contemporary tastes. 

“One of our standout collections, Heritage Reimagined, showcases this blend perfectly. The collection incorporates classic kundan work and meenakari, but reinterprets them in sleek, contemporary silhouettes. Another example is our Vendi silver brand, where traditional silverwork is revitalised with modern, minimalist designs. These collections exemplify how traditional techniques can meet contemporary styles, appealing to a broad spectrum of customers.” 

Promoting Artisanal Craftsmanship Globally

India has emerged as a global trendsetter in the jewellery industry, celebrated for its ability to preserve traditional craftsmanship while adapting to modern trends. Indian jewellery has gained worldwide recognition, with international markets drawing inspiration from the country's rich heritage and artisanal expertise. 

Hemdev says, “Today, we have become trendsetters in the world of jewellery. The global market looks to us because we have successfully kept our traditions alive. By preserving our rich heritage, we are leading the way in setting trends for jewellery, particularly in weddings and cultural celebrations. Our influence extends beyond borders, positioning us as a global leader in the jewellery industry, with other markets taking inspiration from our unique blend of tradition and innovation.”

This unique fusion of preserving tradition while embracing innovation makes India a global leader in the jewellery industry. Siddhanth says, “Indian jewellery is the epitome of artisanal craftsmanship on the global stage. It is a testament to India’s rich jewellery-making heritage, and positions India as a leader in high-quality, handcrafted pieces. By promoting this craftsmanship internationally, we preserve these art forms and elevate the appreciation for handmade jewellery worldwide.”

Collaborations between global designers and Indian artisans are becoming more common, with global brands eager to capture the essence of India’s cultural legacy. These partnerships not only pay homage to time-honoured techniques, but also bring them to a broader, international audience, further solidifying India’s influence on the global jewellery landscape. 

Shekhar says, “As global consumers increasingly seek ethically produced, handcrafted luxury items, Indian jewellery has carved a niche in this market by offering pieces that are not only aesthetically striking, but also rooted in centuries-old craftsmanship. India’s global influence is visible in several ways: luxury brands such as Cartier, Bulgari and Boucheron have long drawn inspiration from Indian craftsmanship. 

Indian jewellery houses like Amrapali and Tanishq, regularly participate in global exhibitions, bringing artisanal techniques to an international audience. Indian designers collaborate with global fashion houses and designers, promoting artisanal jewellery techniques on global platforms and international design shows. 

For instance, Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s jewellery has become globally recognized for its craftsmanship, blending Indian heritage with global design trends. As the global market trends toward ethical and sustainable practices, Indian jewellery’s handcrafted approach aligns well with this demand. By preserving these techniques, Indian artisans contribute to slow fashion movements, where craftsmanship is valued over mass production.”

The enduring appeal of traditional Indian jewellery-making techniques, combined with modern innovations, has allowed India to become a leader in the global jewellery market. As international brands increasingly incorporate Indian craftsmanship into their collections, the rich heritage of techniques like kundan, meenakari, and polki continues to captivate a worldwide audience.