India's jewellery industry, one of the largest in the world, is globally renowned for its rich heritage and unparalleled craftsmanship. With roots tracing back thousands of years, Indian jewellery is an expression of cultural identity and tradition. However, many of India’s unique jewellery forms and artisanal techniques face challenges such as lack of recognition, undervaluation, and imitation. As a result, the industry is not always able to take advantage of its traditional expertise.

In this scenario, Geographical Indication (GI) tags can significantly transform the jewellery sector. Such tags would offer formal recognition to traditional jewellery-making techniques and gemstones specific to regions, such as Jaipur’s emeralds, Tamil Nadu’s temple jewellery, Hyderabad’s pearls, and so forth.

Benefits of GI Tags for the Jewellery Industry

The purpose of a GI tag is two-fold: firstly, it ensures that only those registered as authorized users can use the popular product name, and secondly, it helps preserve the heritage associated with traditional products. Applying GI tags to jewellery would mean that unique pieces associated with specific regions would gain distinct market recognition and protection against unauthorized replication.

“Geographical Indication (GI) tags can significantly enhance the Indian jewellery industry by distinguishing jewellery of a specific nature, category, geography, or quality, thereby establishing exclusivity,” says Vipul Shah, Chairman, GJEPC, adding, “This differentiation fosters a strong identity for traditional craftsmanship, commanding a competitive price in global markets due to its superior quality and authenticity. Additionally, it creates a strong platform for exports by boosting global recognition, and demand for these unique products.”

A major challenge facing the jewellery industry is the widespread availability of counterfeit products. Mass-produced replicas erode consumer trust, and impact the livelihood of skilled artisans. GI tags provide legal protection against such imitation by ensuring that only certified producers in the designated region can market their products under the tagged name. This safeguard upholds the integrity of traditional crafts, and supports genuine artisans.

Says Deepak Kumar, Sri Jagdamba Pearls, Hyderabad, “Geographical indications (GIs) are intellectual property rights that signify a product’s origin from a specific geographic location. This tag makes sure that only people from that place can use that name for their product. So, when you see a GI tag, you know that the product is real and comes from where it says it does.

“GI tags legally recognize the unique characteristics and origin of products, preventing others from falsely claiming the same. This protects the reputation and market value of the products. GI tags also provide benefits such as preserving cultural heritage, increasing demand for local products, minimizing counterfeit products, and giving a fillip to sustainable practices and environmental conservation. GI tags can benefit the Indian jewellery business significantly, as most designs in jewellery are localized as per culture, heritage and workmanship.”

A GI tag not only highlights the uniqueness of a jewellery form, but also elevates its status in the global market. Buyers are increasingly interested in authentic, heritage-rich products, and a GI tag guarantees authenticity. This recognition can lead to higher demand and premium pricing, enabling artisans to secure better earnings, and foster sustainable livelihoods.

Explains N Arjun Varadaraj, NAC Jewellers, Chennai, “Consumers are super informed these days, and they want to understand more about the jewellery they are buying. They are interested in the stories behind every piece of jewellery. I believe all jewellery types that hail from a particular district, or have a history, should have a GI tag. That can be meenakari from Rajasthan, KGF jewellery from Karnataka, or kundan jewellery, which actually originated in South India. Kumdan jewellery is basically a product of Tamil workmanship that later got replicated in Rajasthan. This kind of jewellery should have GI tags, which would give it authenticity. Besides, people will also feel a sense of prestige when buying such jewellery.”

Additionally, by obtaining GI tags, local economies can benefit from increased tourism, greater investor interest, and an expanding market for locally produced crafts. As demand rises, related industries, such as gem cutting, polishing, and metalworking, will also receive a boost, creating a ripple effect of economic development.

As Shrey Nigotiya, Nine Jewellery, Jaipur, says, “GI tags offer substantial advantages by showcasing traditional craftsmanship, and creating fresh opportunities for artisans and businesses. When jewellery receives a GI tag, it gains increased attention, both domestically and internationally. This heightened demand elevates the income of local artisans, and contributes to the region's economy. Jewellery with GI tags often achieves a premium status in international markets, helping to position Indian jewellery as a luxury product, thus boosting exports, and enhancing India’s reputation for craftsmanship.

“Besides, GI tags establish the authenticity of jewellery by connecting it to its origin. Buyers can be confident that they are acquiring genuine, high-quality pieces, such as Jaipur's kundan jewellery, or Tamil Nadu's temple jewellery, both known for their unique techniques and designs. Many traditional jewellery styles have been around for centuries. GI tags safeguard these crafts by granting them official recognition, encouraging artisans to continue their work, and pass their skills to future generations.”

Adds Shah, “GI recognition creates opportunities for MSMEs to thrive within their regions, encouraging localized production, and enhancing employment. This, in turn, contributes to regional development, and preserves India's rich heritage of artisanal jewellery-making, ensuring sustainability and growth for the sector.”

Challenges, and the way ahead

In India, GI tags are issued as per the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act,1999. The tag is issued by the Geographical Indication Registry under the Department of Industry Promotion and Internal Trade, Ministry of Commerce and Industry. While the benefits of GI tags are numerous, there is widespread lack of awareness about the tags. The trade bodies of the industry need to make information about the process of securing such tags accessible more easily. 

Explains Shah, “At GJEPC, we recognize the immense value of securing GI tags for traditional and unique jewellery crafts across India. Our focus is on identifying these regional specialties on a pan-India scale, and bringing them under the GI framework, which is crucial for enhancing global trade, and establishing credibility. We are committed to guiding and supporting artisans and stakeholders through the GI registration process, ensuring that their crafts meet all the necessary requirements.”

The fragmented nature of the jewellery industry poses another a big challenge when it comes to securing GI tags. Says Kumar, “The gems and jewellery industry in India is unorganized and fragmented. Lack of coordination hampers collective efforts to secure GI tags. Greater awareness about GI tags, how to secure them, and how to market GI-tagged jewellery is essential for the growth of the industry.” 

Emphasizing the need for a dedicated effort to secure GI tags, Nigotiya says, “GI certification requires adherence to traditional methods, and local sourcing of materials. Securing a GI tag for jewellery requires a focused approach to protect heritage and empower artisans. The history, cultural significance and the unique craftsmanship of the jewellery needs to be showcased, demonstrating its ties to a particular region. Collaboration with local artisans, trade groups, and craft clusters is the way forward when it comes to getting GI certification. But getting the tag is not the end – even buyers have to be educated about the value of GI-tagged jewellery.” 

Varadaraj sounds a note of caution. “The industry needs to ensure that a process is set in place, and that retailers do not misuse the GI tags. Some unscrupulous retailers can misinform the consumers as part of their sales strategy, and take advantage of the certification. There needs to be a clear-cut process for securing GI tags. 

“We can learn from the food and beverage industry. Take the example of champagne – champagne is nothing but a sparkling wine. But it is called champagne only if it is made in the Champagne region of France. Those are the kind of specifications we need to bring in. If kundan or meenakari jewellery is made in a particular region of Rajasthan, then it can carry the GI tag. But if someone makes it in Kolkata or Chennai, it cannot be projected as meenakari jewellery.” 

Challenges notwithstanding, one can safely conclude that leveraging the power of GI tags offers an opportunity not only to preserve the past, but also shape a sustainable, prosperous future for the countless artisans of the industry. In the process, India’s jewellery heritage can shine more brightly on the world stage, and the industry can find new avenues of growth.