|*Amongst the earliest designers to establish a jewellery brand in her own name, Poonam Soni was the forerunner to the elite band of couture jewellery designers who have today established a presence in the high end segment. Recently in the news for being invited to participate in an auction organised by Eco Art, a charitable institution for ecological welfare supported by Prince Albert II of Monaco and for which she designed a special piece, Poonam has always explored exciting new landscapes and come up with innovative designs through the years. {{Nilan Singh}} takes a look at some of the milestones along the journey of progress of eclectic designer {{Poonam Soni}}.*|%% He r latest milestone is the creation of “Itai Doshin” a piece of jewellery created specially for the auction organised by Eco Art, a charitable institution for ecological welfare supported by Prince Albert II of Monaco; and to be conducted by no less a personage that the chairman of the acclaimed auction house, Sotheby’s. %% The theme of this year’s auction is ‘extinct birds’, the Hornbill and the Saker Falcon. Poonam created a special piece titled “Itai Doshin”, based on the Buddhist philosophy and which means “Many in body, one in mind”. According to Poonam, “The bird embodies peace, harmony, unity, self-empowerment and personifies a spirit in flight, that transcends cultural and geographic borders, soaring high and blending in with the rhythm of the universe, bonding nature with the environment.” %% The piece itself is a “dual purpose” ornament based on the Saker Falcon that can be used either as a brooch or a lariat. What is notable about the piece is that it is created using a variety of mediums and forms, something that has been Poonam’s signature style. The Itai Doshin is adorned with high quality diamonds: champagne coloured ovals in rounds and baguettes; fancy shaped, golf cut white diamonds on the wings of the bird and uneven shaped large white diamonds for the flowers and drops from the wings. The bird’s stomach is decorated in a traditional form of Mogul art, fusing 23 ct. gold on glass while the face of the bird is hand-painted. The ultimate touch, and one which highlights the environmental concerns is the miniature rose holding the tiny green painting on plexiglass, below the bird. The tail of the bird is movable creating the visual illusion of flight. A small beetle, placed on the neck, attached to the piece, studded with champagne diamonds and red rubies carries the Poonam Soni signature on its back. %% This intricately designed piece was perfectly executed and manufactured by Fine Jewellery, a leading jewellery manufacturer of jewellery for both exports and the domestic market. “This kind of collaboration is also a first,” says Poonam. “And the combination worked beautifully, especially as Fine Jewellery has so much technical expertise and experience.”

The journey to reach the international stage began way back in 1989 for Poonam. And it began quite casually. “As I was buying jewellery, I realised that lovely as it was, it was not what I wanted,” says Poonam. “So I began to design my own pieces, which were appreciated a lot.” %% In 1990 the abolition of the Gold Control Act meant that Poonam could get more organised and establish a jewellery designing and manufacturing set up. “Without realising it, I was working at creating a brand,” remembers Poonam. “I got a logo for Poonam Soni designed at that time for Rs. 50,000, started shooting my jewellery pieces for promotions and so on.” %% Part of the process of setting up the brand, and something that came naturally to her, was the absolute transparent manner in which she ran her business. “I introduced 18k jewellery as 18k, and stressed the design element and hence was able to command a better price for my jewellery,” says Poonam. This she managed at a time when consumers were focussed on buying jewellery as investment, when other jewellers had hardly any manoeuvrability in pricing and hence resorting to “under karatage” – selling jewellery at karatages less than those declared to customers to improve margins – was rampant. “In those early years I learnt a lot,” says Poonam. %% “Working with the babus, checking and clearing systems to ensure that my pieces stood for quality and honest dealings, and of course constantly creating new designs – all of it helped me get a firmer grasp over the jewellery business.” %% {{Milestones}}%% Early in her career, Poonam’s visit to the Sistine Chapel while travelling abroad, turned out to be a landmark experience. She was completely dazzled and entranced by the artwork within the chapel and on returning home, she created the first milestone collection inspired by the Sistine – he Greek and Egyptian collection. Handcrafted figurines coloured with enamel and chemicals on a base of malachite and topaz created signature pieces of jewelletry. She also used onyx, lapis lazuli, shells, leather and tapestry and 18k pale gold to create a vibrantly different kind of jewellery, not seen in India before. Priced around Rs. 18,000-Rs. 20,000, this distinctive jewellery proved to be extremely popular with young women, particularly those with a yen to be different. %% “Young women loved it,” recalls Poonam with a smile. “The word spread and that is how the Poonam Soni brand really took off.” Soon she counted the likes of Madhu Sapre, Noyonika Chatterjee, Bina Ramani, Kavita Bhartiya and other high society women as her admirers.

Around 1993-94 she set up her signature store in Bandra. Everything from the décor to the fact that she saw clients “By Apppointment Only”, to the manner in which they were catered to, made the store a distinctive experience. %% At the same time she also produced the lace collection. Made from crocheted gold and using inexpensive uncut diamonds, this proved to be a runaway success as well. %% “I wanted to do something new,” says Poonam. “I was bored of doing the same thing. The chance came to me when I was buying diamonds from one of the suppliers and they were very expensive. He then showed me an option of very inexpensive uncut diamonds with a pale aquamarine hue. I was captivated by their beauty and bought the lot. Those stones proved to be an inspiration for a new collection.” %% Today, the knitted fabric like mesh of gold has become popular but back then it was not readily available, and Poonam had to get her karigars to create just the look that she wanted from machine made chains. %% In 1994, she also opened two oiffices abroad – one in the US and another in Paris. In Paris she tied up for support with Richard Rosanbo who was head of the LVMH for over a decade prior to joining her. The international presence helped her to popularise her jewellery with a discerning clientele abroad. This effort was helped with the private shows that she held at various places. %% A highlight of Poonam’s career was when LVMH invited her to participate in the Incredible India show in Paris. $$ About 12 years ago, Poonam opened her second store in Mumbai at the upscale Altamount Road from where she caters to a distinguished clientele. $$ A major leap in design innovation was made by the talented designer when she launched two collections inspired by artists. The first was the Monochrome collection created around the works of Laxman Shreshtha, the well known Indian painter. For this collection, Shreshtha actually painted miniatures which were then mounted as pendants and formed the centre pieces of a variety of gorgeous neckpieces. With a limited number of pieces produced, this soon became the pride of all those who possessed it. This collection was not only showcased in Paris, it also went into the prestigious Italian TJF book which makes annual trend forecasts as a trend setting work. Monochromes was sold by auction by Nina Pillai, well known society person. %% The other collection was based on the works of Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi, entitled “Gaudi Revived” and used stained glass, mosaic and brickwork as inspiration. This collection was also a result of a holiday. Visiting Spain, Poonam went to see the famous architectural work of Gaudi, the Sagrada Familia and was awestruck by its magnificence. She went into a paroxysm of photography capturing every detail. She bought as many books on Gaudi as she could and came back to design a collection which was at once unique and breathtaking. This collection has been patented by the designer and earned for her not only appreciation but also patronage from the Spanish government. The authorities in Spain were delighted and overwhelmed that the Indian designer had paid such a rich tribute to one of its iconic sons.

While the special signature collections and other milestones were being achieved, Poonam continued to produce her designer bespoke jewellery as well as a high end silver line. She is known for using a variety of materials and mediums to create arresting pieces which are original and unique in whatever she does. Her ongoing search for exploring the world for inspiration and always coming up with something new has not ended. In fact, since 2005 it has taken on an added dimension, as she has taken to Buddhism in a big way. Now her gaze is turned inwards as much as it is outwards and her creativity draws inspiration from both the material as well as the spiritual world. Her Itai Doshin piece was inspired by Buddhism. But there are more collections to come and chances are they will be even more ethereal that her earlier creations.

|*Amongst the earliest designers to establish a jewellery brand in her own name, Poonam Soni was the forerunner to the elite band of couture jewellery designers who have today established a presence in the high end segment. Recently in the news for being invited to participate in an auction organised by Eco Art, a charitable institution for ecological welfare supported by Prince Albert II of Monaco and for which she designed a special piece, Poonam has always explored exciting new landscapes and come up with innovative designs through the years. {{Nilan Singh}} takes a look at some of the milestones along the journey of progress of eclectic designer {{Poonam Soni}}.*|%% He r latest milestone is the creation of “Itai Doshin” a piece of jewellery created specially for the auction organised by Eco Art, a charitable institution for ecological welfare supported by Prince Albert II of Monaco; and to be conducted by no less a personage that the chairman of the acclaimed auction house, Sotheby’s. %% The theme of this year’s auction is ‘extinct birds’, the Hornbill and the Saker Falcon. Poonam created a special piece titled “Itai Doshin”, based on the Buddhist philosophy and which means “Many in body, one in mind”. According to Poonam, “The bird embodies peace, harmony, unity, self-empowerment and personifies a spirit in flight, that transcends cultural and geographic borders, soaring high and blending in with the rhythm of the universe, bonding nature with the environment.” %% The piece itself is a “dual purpose” ornament based on the Saker Falcon that can be used either as a brooch or a lariat. What is notable about the piece is that it is created using a variety of mediums and forms, something that has been Poonam’s signature style. The Itai Doshin is adorned with high quality diamonds: champagne coloured ovals in rounds and baguettes; fancy shaped, golf cut white diamonds on the wings of the bird and uneven shaped large white diamonds for the flowers and drops from the wings. The bird’s stomach is decorated in a traditional form of Mogul art, fusing 23 ct. gold on glass while the face of the bird is hand-painted. The ultimate touch, and one which highlights the environmental concerns is the miniature rose holding the tiny green painting on plexiglass, below the bird. The tail of the bird is movable creating the visual illusion of flight. A small beetle, placed on the neck, attached to the piece, studded with champagne diamonds and red rubies carries the Poonam Soni signature on its back. %% This intricately designed piece was perfectly executed and manufactured by Fine Jewellery, a leading jewellery manufacturer of jewellery for both exports and the domestic market. “This kind of collaboration is also a first,” says Poonam. “And the combination worked beautifully, especially as Fine Jewellery has so much technical expertise and experience.”

The journey to reach the international stage began way back in 1989 for Poonam. And it began quite casually. “As I was buying jewellery, I realised that lovely as it was, it was not what I wanted,” says Poonam. “So I began to design my own pieces, which were appreciated a lot.” %% In 1990 the abolition of the Gold Control Act meant that Poonam could get more organised and establish a jewellery designing and manufacturing set up. “Without realising it, I was working at creating a brand,” remembers Poonam. “I got a logo for Poonam Soni designed at that time for Rs. 50,000, started shooting my jewellery pieces for promotions and so on.” %% Part of the process of setting up the brand, and something that came naturally to her, was the absolute transparent manner in which she ran her business. “I introduced 18k jewellery as 18k, and stressed the design element and hence was able to command a better price for my jewellery,” says Poonam. This she managed at a time when consumers were focussed on buying jewellery as investment, when other jewellers had hardly any manoeuvrability in pricing and hence resorting to “under karatage” – selling jewellery at karatages less than those declared to customers to improve margins – was rampant. “In those early years I learnt a lot,” says Poonam. %% “Working with the babus, checking and clearing systems to ensure that my pieces stood for quality and honest dealings, and of course constantly creating new designs – all of it helped me get a firmer grasp over the jewellery business.” %% {{Milestones}}%% Early in her career, Poonam’s visit to the Sistine Chapel while travelling abroad, turned out to be a landmark experience. She was completely dazzled and entranced by the artwork within the chapel and on returning home, she created the first milestone collection inspired by the Sistine – he Greek and Egyptian collection. Handcrafted figurines coloured with enamel and chemicals on a base of malachite and topaz created signature pieces of jewelletry. She also used onyx, lapis lazuli, shells, leather and tapestry and 18k pale gold to create a vibrantly different kind of jewellery, not seen in India before. Priced around Rs. 18,000-Rs. 20,000, this distinctive jewellery proved to be extremely popular with young women, particularly those with a yen to be different. %% “Young women loved it,” recalls Poonam with a smile. “The word spread and that is how the Poonam Soni brand really took off.” Soon she counted the likes of Madhu Sapre, Noyonika Chatterjee, Bina Ramani, Kavita Bhartiya and other high society women as her admirers.

Around 1993-94 she set up her signature store in Bandra. Everything from the décor to the fact that she saw clients “By Apppointment Only”, to the manner in which they were catered to, made the store a distinctive experience. %% At the same time she also produced the lace collection. Made from crocheted gold and using inexpensive uncut diamonds, this proved to be a runaway success as well. %% “I wanted to do something new,” says Poonam. “I was bored of doing the same thing. The chance came to me when I was buying diamonds from one of the suppliers and they were very expensive. He then showed me an option of very inexpensive uncut diamonds with a pale aquamarine hue. I was captivated by their beauty and bought the lot. Those stones proved to be an inspiration for a new collection.” %% Today, the knitted fabric like mesh of gold has become popular but back then it was not readily available, and Poonam had to get her karigars to create just the look that she wanted from machine made chains. %% In 1994, she also opened two oiffices abroad – one in the US and another in Paris. In Paris she tied up for support with Richard Rosanbo who was head of the LVMH for over a decade prior to joining her. The international presence helped her to popularise her jewellery with a discerning clientele abroad. This effort was helped with the private shows that she held at various places. %% A highlight of Poonam’s career was when LVMH invited her to participate in the Incredible India show in Paris. $$ About 12 years ago, Poonam opened her second store in Mumbai at the upscale Altamount Road from where she caters to a distinguished clientele. $$ A major leap in design innovation was made by the talented designer when she launched two collections inspired by artists. The first was the Monochrome collection created around the works of Laxman Shreshtha, the well known Indian painter. For this collection, Shreshtha actually painted miniatures which were then mounted as pendants and formed the centre pieces of a variety of gorgeous neckpieces. With a limited number of pieces produced, this soon became the pride of all those who possessed it. This collection was not only showcased in Paris, it also went into the prestigious Italian TJF book which makes annual trend forecasts as a trend setting work. Monochromes was sold by auction by Nina Pillai, well known society person. %% The other collection was based on the works of Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi, entitled “Gaudi Revived” and used stained glass, mosaic and brickwork as inspiration. This collection was also a result of a holiday. Visiting Spain, Poonam went to see the famous architectural work of Gaudi, the Sagrada Familia and was awestruck by its magnificence. She went into a paroxysm of photography capturing every detail. She bought as many books on Gaudi as she could and came back to design a collection which was at once unique and breathtaking. This collection has been patented by the designer and earned for her not only appreciation but also patronage from the Spanish government. The authorities in Spain were delighted and overwhelmed that the Indian designer had paid such a rich tribute to one of its iconic sons.

While the special signature collections and other milestones were being achieved, Poonam continued to produce her designer bespoke jewellery as well as a high end silver line. She is known for using a variety of materials and mediums to create arresting pieces which are original and unique in whatever she does. Her ongoing search for exploring the world for inspiration and always coming up with something new has not ended. In fact, since 2005 it has taken on an added dimension, as she has taken to Buddhism in a big way. Now her gaze is turned inwards as much as it is outwards and her creativity draws inspiration from both the material as well as the spiritual world. Her Itai Doshin piece was inspired by Buddhism. But there are more collections to come and chances are they will be even more ethereal that her earlier creations.

|*Amongst the earliest designers to establish a jewellery brand in her own name, Poonam Soni was the forerunner to the elite band of couture jewellery designers who have today established a presence in the high end segment. Recently in the news for being invited to participate in an auction organised by Eco Art, a charitable institution for ecological welfare supported by Prince Albert II of Monaco and for which she designed a special piece, Poonam has always explored exciting new landscapes and come up with innovative designs through the years. {{Nilan Singh}} takes a look at some of the milestones along the journey of progress of eclectic designer {{Poonam Soni}}.*|%% He r latest milestone is the creation of “Itai Doshin” a piece of jewellery created specially for the auction organised by Eco Art, a charitable institution for ecological welfare supported by Prince Albert II of Monaco; and to be conducted by no less a personage that the chairman of the acclaimed auction house, Sotheby’s. %% The theme of this year’s auction is ‘extinct birds’, the Hornbill and the Saker Falcon. Poonam created a special piece titled “Itai Doshin”, based on the Buddhist philosophy and which means “Many in body, one in mind”. According to Poonam, “The bird embodies peace, harmony, unity, self-empowerment and personifies a spirit in flight, that transcends cultural and geographic borders, soaring high and blending in with the rhythm of the universe, bonding nature with the environment.” %% The piece itself is a “dual purpose” ornament based on the Saker Falcon that can be used either as a brooch or a lariat. What is notable about the piece is that it is created using a variety of mediums and forms, something that has been Poonam’s signature style. The Itai Doshin is adorned with high quality diamonds: champagne coloured ovals in rounds and baguettes; fancy shaped, golf cut white diamonds on the wings of the bird and uneven shaped large white diamonds for the flowers and drops from the wings. The bird’s stomach is decorated in a traditional form of Mogul art, fusing 23 ct. gold on glass while the face of the bird is hand-painted. The ultimate touch, and one which highlights the environmental concerns is the miniature rose holding the tiny green painting on plexiglass, below the bird. The tail of the bird is movable creating the visual illusion of flight. A small beetle, placed on the neck, attached to the piece, studded with champagne diamonds and red rubies carries the Poonam Soni signature on its back. %% This intricately designed piece was perfectly executed and manufactured by Fine Jewellery, a leading jewellery manufacturer of jewellery for both exports and the domestic market. “This kind of collaboration is also a first,” says Poonam. “And the combination worked beautifully, especially as Fine Jewellery has so much technical expertise and experience.”

The journey to reach the international stage began way back in 1989 for Poonam. And it began quite casually. “As I was buying jewellery, I realised that lovely as it was, it was not what I wanted,” says Poonam. “So I began to design my own pieces, which were appreciated a lot.” %% In 1990 the abolition of the Gold Control Act meant that Poonam could get more organised and establish a jewellery designing and manufacturing set up. “Without realising it, I was working at creating a brand,” remembers Poonam. “I got a logo for Poonam Soni designed at that time for Rs. 50,000, started shooting my jewellery pieces for promotions and so on.” %% Part of the process of setting up the brand, and something that came naturally to her, was the absolute transparent manner in which she ran her business. “I introduced 18k jewellery as 18k, and stressed the design element and hence was able to command a better price for my jewellery,” says Poonam. This she managed at a time when consumers were focussed on buying jewellery as investment, when other jewellers had hardly any manoeuvrability in pricing and hence resorting to “under karatage” – selling jewellery at karatages less than those declared to customers to improve margins – was rampant. “In those early years I learnt a lot,” says Poonam. %% “Working with the babus, checking and clearing systems to ensure that my pieces stood for quality and honest dealings, and of course constantly creating new designs – all of it helped me get a firmer grasp over the jewellery business.” %% {{Milestones}}%% Early in her career, Poonam’s visit to the Sistine Chapel while travelling abroad, turned out to be a landmark experience. She was completely dazzled and entranced by the artwork within the chapel and on returning home, she created the first milestone collection inspired by the Sistine – he Greek and Egyptian collection. Handcrafted figurines coloured with enamel and chemicals on a base of malachite and topaz created signature pieces of jewelletry. She also used onyx, lapis lazuli, shells, leather and tapestry and 18k pale gold to create a vibrantly different kind of jewellery, not seen in India before. Priced around Rs. 18,000-Rs. 20,000, this distinctive jewellery proved to be extremely popular with young women, particularly those with a yen to be different. %% “Young women loved it,” recalls Poonam with a smile. “The word spread and that is how the Poonam Soni brand really took off.” Soon she counted the likes of Madhu Sapre, Noyonika Chatterjee, Bina Ramani, Kavita Bhartiya and other high society women as her admirers.

Around 1993-94 she set up her signature store in Bandra. Everything from the décor to the fact that she saw clients “By Apppointment Only”, to the manner in which they were catered to, made the store a distinctive experience. %% At the same time she also produced the lace collection. Made from crocheted gold and using inexpensive uncut diamonds, this proved to be a runaway success as well. %% “I wanted to do something new,” says Poonam. “I was bored of doing the same thing. The chance came to me when I was buying diamonds from one of the suppliers and they were very expensive. He then showed me an option of very inexpensive uncut diamonds with a pale aquamarine hue. I was captivated by their beauty and bought the lot. Those stones proved to be an inspiration for a new collection.” %% Today, the knitted fabric like mesh of gold has become popular but back then it was not readily available, and Poonam had to get her karigars to create just the look that she wanted from machine made chains. %% In 1994, she also opened two oiffices abroad – one in the US and another in Paris. In Paris she tied up for support with Richard Rosanbo who was head of the LVMH for over a decade prior to joining her. The international presence helped her to popularise her jewellery with a discerning clientele abroad. This effort was helped with the private shows that she held at various places. %% A highlight of Poonam’s career was when LVMH invited her to participate in the Incredible India show in Paris. $$ About 12 years ago, Poonam opened her second store in Mumbai at the upscale Altamount Road from where she caters to a distinguished clientele. $$ A major leap in design innovation was made by the talented designer when she launched two collections inspired by artists. The first was the Monochrome collection created around the works of Laxman Shreshtha, the well known Indian painter. For this collection, Shreshtha actually painted miniatures which were then mounted as pendants and formed the centre pieces of a variety of gorgeous neckpieces. With a limited number of pieces produced, this soon became the pride of all those who possessed it. This collection was not only showcased in Paris, it also went into the prestigious Italian TJF book which makes annual trend forecasts as a trend setting work. Monochromes was sold by auction by Nina Pillai, well known society person. %% The other collection was based on the works of Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi, entitled “Gaudi Revived” and used stained glass, mosaic and brickwork as inspiration. This collection was also a result of a holiday. Visiting Spain, Poonam went to see the famous architectural work of Gaudi, the Sagrada Familia and was awestruck by its magnificence. She went into a paroxysm of photography capturing every detail. She bought as many books on Gaudi as she could and came back to design a collection which was at once unique and breathtaking. This collection has been patented by the designer and earned for her not only appreciation but also patronage from the Spanish government. The authorities in Spain were delighted and overwhelmed that the Indian designer had paid such a rich tribute to one of its iconic sons.

While the special signature collections and other milestones were being achieved, Poonam continued to produce her designer bespoke jewellery as well as a high end silver line. She is known for using a variety of materials and mediums to create arresting pieces which are original and unique in whatever she does. Her ongoing search for exploring the world for inspiration and always coming up with something new has not ended. In fact, since 2005 it has taken on an added dimension, as she has taken to Buddhism in a big way. Now her gaze is turned inwards as much as it is outwards and her creativity draws inspiration from both the material as well as the spiritual world. Her Itai Doshin piece was inspired by Buddhism. But there are more collections to come and chances are they will be even more ethereal that her earlier creations.